Yes, very easy. I never liked pulling/installing engine and trans together...can't recall that we ever did that in the shops I've worked for.
Do everything already mentioned. Before you separate the engine from the trans, support the trans with a floor jack under the pan. I like to leave one bolt on each side of the engine (finger tight) until I get the trans weight supported. I put a 2x4 between the pan and the jack. Raise jack just enough to hold at same height as engine. Separate and raise the engine out of the way. Once the engine is out, you can wedge a 2x4 of appropriate length between the upper lip of trans case (bell housing) and the cross member....alternately, you can run a pair of wires (coat hanger works here or bailing wire) from upper bolts on trans case to one of the tower braces. This way you can remove the floor jack, move the car around, etc.
If you've never installed a torque converter, I suggest (before you remove it) you push it all the way towards the trans, then measure across the case to the end of the hub or the base of a stud. This will give you a reference when you put it converter back in to make sure it's fully seated. Put a pan under the trans when you pull the converter...it's going to dump a bit of fluid if the engine was recently run.
When you go back together, you basically do the reverse. When you install the converter, first set it in place and push in, then rotate and push in, and continue until it doesn't move back any farther. It will drop into and engage each set of splines as you rotate it. Next, you want to line up the converter studs with holes in the flex plate. Pick something simple like 12 o'clock for both the flex plate and the converter studs.
