Tranny removal

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Helicopter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
97
Reaction score
1
Location
USA
My Car
1973 Mustang, 351 Cleveland 2bbl. vinyl roof.
1973 Mustang LH (Yank) drive
351 Cleveland
FMX Transmission

Hello All;
I found a place that will overhaul my FMX Tranny but I have to take it out and deliver it.
The Mx manual has no procedures listed for that.
Before I make a costly mistake, could someone give me the basic steps?
I don't want to "turn and learn", not knowing exactly what I am doing.

TNX
Roy
 
Others will have a better answer than me, but...is there any reason why you might benefit by having the engine out at the same time? If so, the answer to your question may be different. Good luck.
 
Get an extra set of hands when you're ready to actually remove it from the car. Transmissions can be difficult to handle by yourself, especially if you're doing it without the car on a lift.
 
Biggest issue is getting the car high enough to get the bell housing out from under the car.

i used a harbor freight transmission jack to control it out of its spot.

i used ratchet straps under the crank and the back of the engine for additional support.

once you get it as low as the trans jack will go use wood blocks to hold it up high enough to get the jack out.

Then I remove the wood blocks one by one alternating until it is on the ground.

i try and slide it on cardboard to get it as low as possible due to bell housing height.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9061.jpeg
    IMG_9061.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_9060.jpeg
    IMG_9060.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_9059.jpeg
    IMG_9059.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_9058.jpeg
    IMG_9058.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_9057.jpeg
    IMG_9057.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 1
I agree with Rcadd1ct above, getting the car up high enough to accomodate the size of the bell housing is a chore. When I dropped mine, while underneath, I removed the torque converter, then removed my bell housing, then moved the trans out on the jack. Did the same when reinstalling it. The bell housing just has four bolts, seemed easier to me that way. Good luck and be careful with the trans lines, they rust and become a pain to remove without breaking at least one of them.

Tom
 
I've done several transmissions with the car on ramps in the yard.

Label everything you disconnect so you can put it back where it goes.

Off the top of my head...
* pull car onto ramps or jack stands. block rear wheels to keep the car from rolling
* remove driveshaft from rear end, then slide it backwards to remove it from the transmission. be ready with a pan to catch fluid pouring out the tail housing
* disconnect the battery cables
* disconnect the electrical wires at the starter. Remove the starter
* disconnect the 2 transmission fluid cooler lines on the passenger side of the transmission.
* pull the pins and nuts to disconnect the shifter, downshift, and steering lockout linkages on the driver's side of the transmission.
* disconnect the vacuum hose(s) for the transmission modulator
* disconnect speedometer cable from driver's side of transmission
* you may need to disconnect/loosen parking brake cable if it is under the transmission. on my 73, I was able to just pry it loose from the hook on the passenger side and that let it drop free.
* you may need to disconnect your exhaust if you have an H or X pipe that is below the transmission
* remove the inspection plate from the front of the transmission.
* rotate the engine using the big bolt at the harmonic balancer. this lets you access the nuts holding the torque converter to the flexplate. remove those nuts, rotating the engine 90 degrees to get to each one.
* use a floor jack or transmission jack to lift up on the transmission.
* with the weight on the jack, you can remove the transmission cross member
* remove the 6 bolts holding the transmission to the engine block
* wiggle the transmission while pulling it rearward to separate it from the engine.
* lower the transmission/floor jack
* you have the most clearance pulling the transmission out towards the front of the car.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal. Pour a quart or two of transmission fluid in the torque converter before installing it back into the transmission. Make sure to seat the torque converter fully in the transmission. Spin it around several times while pushing it in so it fully engages.
 
Last edited:
I was concerned about getting it high enough. I have steel ramps that are 9.5 inches high. Is that high enough?
By taking the tranny out myself I am saving $800 USD and towing charge.
I just hope I can do it correctly.
 
Helicopter, why don't you make a set of wheel cribs? The wheel cribs are pretty stable and you can get the car off the ground and it gives you enough clearance.

This video shows you how to make the wheel cribs



This video shows how to put your car on the wheel cribs.

 
I was concerned about getting it high enough. I have steel ramps that are 9.5 inches high. Is that high enough?
By taking the tranny out myself I am saving $800 USD and towing charge.
I just hope I can do it correctly.
My C6 is a little over 18” tall at the top of the bell housing with it on the ground

You probably need the car to be on four jack stands to get it tall enough

You can cheat it some by tilting the bell housing down and pulling it out tail first….but not a lot

C6 bell housing isn’t removable so I didn’t have that option
 
I was concerned about getting it high enough. I have steel ramps that are 9.5 inches high. Is that high enough?
By taking the tranny out myself I am saving $800 USD and towing charge.
I just hope I can do it correctly.
I'd be inclined to pay them the $800 to handle removal and reinstallation. Join AAA and use them for the free towing. Or check with your insurance company to see if they have it.

If you will have to buy any tools or consumables like transmission fluid, filter, and gasket (and bandaids), that will eat into your $800 savings. If you haven't done it yourself, the job can easily eat up a full evening or a saturday for removal and another for installation. Plus the time of whatever helper you use to help you muscle the transmission around. You may come out ahead just paying the $800.
 
I agree. This project is already getting way out-of-hand.
One problem is, most Transmission shops do not want to do it.
 
1973 Mustang LH (Yank) drive
351 Cleveland
FMX Transmission

Hello All;
I found a place that will overhaul my FMX Tranny but I have to take it out and deliver it.
The Mx manual has no procedures listed for that.
Before I make a costly mistake, could someone give me the basic steps?
I don't want to "turn and learn", not knowing exactly what I am doing.

TNX
Roy
I was in the transmission rebuild business for over 30 years. I owned 2 shop locations with 20 employees at one time. I would strongly recommend that you pay the extra $800 to have the entire job done professionally. Almost all the problems I saw over the years with transmissions after a DIY install were the cause of the installer. How do you plan on flushing the cooler? Any debris in the cooler or lines could cause trouble. One time I saw a DIY use a C6 flex-plate with an FMX and the transmission didn't make it out of the driveway before the transmission was destroyed! What about a warranty concern after the job is done? This car has a very tight transmission tunnel. The FMX transmission case is iron and quite heavy. Do you have the tools needed to handle the job safely?
 
Thanks Rio1856 for the videos of the car cribs. As long as I have been working on cars, I have never seen this approach. I am going to get started this weekend and make a set for my 72 so I can put the headers on. I was wondering how I was going to accomplish this but know I have 100% confidence.
 
Thanks Rio1856 for the videos of the car cribs. As long as I have been working on cars, I have never seen this approach. I am going to get started this weekend and make a set for my 72 so I can put the headers on. I was wondering how I was going to accomplish this but know I have 100% confidence.
Mark Jones if you remember take some pics of your sled on the wheel cribs that you end up making. We like pics!! 😁
 
I was in the transmission rebuild business for over 30 years. I owned 2 shop locations with 20 employees at one time. I would strongly recommend that you pay the extra $800 to have the entire job done professionally. Almost all the problems I saw over the years with transmissions after a DIY install were the cause of the installer. How do you plan on flushing the cooler? Any debris in the cooler or lines could cause trouble. One time I saw a DIY use a C6 flex-plate with an FMX and the transmission didn't make it out of the driveway before the transmission was destroyed! What about a warranty concern after the job is done? This car has a very tight transmission tunnel. The FMX transmission case is iron and quite heavy. Do you have the tools needed to handle the job safely?
I think you may be right.
 
I may have just enough room to R&R the Tranny but I agree with Transmission guy that I may avoid a lot of problems by paying the extra $800 usd and have the Tc shop take it out and put it in. The only concern is, the shop is in a really bad section of town.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_2390.JPG
    SAM_2390.JPG
    3.6 MB · Views: 0
Back
Top