Radiator Overflow Tank

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I'm "peeling off" the rubber peel coat paint behind all 4 wheels and recoating with it. After about 4 years (~4,000 miles) this stuff did a great job protecting the lower paint from stone chips.
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Hi All,
Cleveland Crush where did you get that overflow bottle?
As far as the systems go the best would be above the radiator with a portion of return heater hose running to and from it with a 13-16lbs cap. ( maybe above evap tank) You would just put a cap for filling purposes on radiator. This would give you an air gap in tank, just like the old radiator in the mustang and the brand new system. Look at new mustang degas tank stuff. Its just an Idea I have not tried it.
 

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Hi All,
Cleveland Crush where did you get that overflow bottle?
As far as the systems go the best would be above the radiator with a portion of return heater hose running to and from it with a 13-16lbs cap. ( maybe above evap tank) You would just put a cap for filling purposes on radiator. This would give you an air gap in tank, just like the old radiator in the mustang and the brand new system. Look at new mustang degas tank stuff. Its just an Idea I have not tried it.
Purchased the return bottle at Autozone, about 5 years ago. Note: The lower Black marker line is my cold fill level, the upper Black line is about the level when at operating temperature, upon cool down of course it returns back to the lower level.
 

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I want to add a radiator overflow tank. I know in years past they had a petcock for drainage. But everything I see has a vacuum system moving coolant back and forth. My question is, does that concept work on our old radiators and caps? If I connect to overflow tube to a tank will it pull back and forth or just be a reservoir for overflow?
I added the overflow tank. It was quite easy and I found what I think is a good sized, small tank with a bracket already attached. I got a angled piece of metal, cut, bent & drilled it which was the most laborious part. I used a threaded hole already present. It functions well. Here is the step by step if anyone is interested.
 

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There are a lot of choices re: what kind of coolant recovery (overflow) container to use. I decided to use the stainless steel design tank from CJ Pony Parts. In a post earlier in this thread 73MustangCoupe referenced me and provided a link to my YouTube video showing how I installed the stainless steel recovery tank on our 73 Mach 1, In the video description I provide info re: what parts we used. Although 73MustangCoupe provided the link already, I offer it again as a matter of convenience:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYzThkQ8qgQ


I previously installed an overflow tank for coolant on our 73 Mustang Convertible, as shown in this YouTube video:

https://youtu.be/D7TvjP1FknE


I have found the stainless steel cylindrical overflow tanks to be sufficient in size. But, if you want to have a container with high capacity there are several suggestion in this thread that look like they could work nicely. For me, the capacity our tanks have are plenty adequate, and I like how they look.
 
Hi all,
Why I like Degas system is: the air can compress area before it pushes additional venting gasses out on the top of it. It holds extra coolant that would overflow but keeps running pressure lower. In a bladder system the water expands and has no where to go but the overflow tank. The only spring in the way is the hoses till pressure relief is reached. In a Degas system Boyles gas law takes effect.
Compressed Air - Storage Volume
The storage volume for a compressed gas can be calculated by using Boyle's Law pa Va = Pc x Vc = constant. Or
Va = pc Vc / pa which means for example a 1 cubic foot container Va= 16psi (radiator cap pressure) x(1x1x1)/14.7psi( 1 atmosphere). This equal 1 cubic foot of space air will compress to 1.1 cubic feet. This is why hot and cold levels are close in a degas bottle. I have attached a reference.
Va = cubic area under pressure
Pc = pressure psi
Vc= cubic container volume (means to the third power or the length x width x height)
Pa= 1 atmosphere (will be different on top of a mountain)
Its quite a gas spring, thats why they gas inside of shocks.
 

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Reviving this thread to share what I did in relation to my coolant overflow tank. My tank was not working because it was too small. I now added a Dorman 603-001 Universal tank, which is a bit bigger. Time will tell if it will work. I wanted to keep it in the driver side of the radiator. To fit it there I had to heat up and deform the side facing the A/C lines so i can wedge it between the lines and apron. To minimize the number of holes on the apron I used the bottom bracket of the tank and then the side bracket I had for the previous tank.
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I'm "peeling off" the rubber peel coat paint behind all 4 wheels and recoating with it. After about 4 years (~4,000 miles) this stuff did a great job protecting the lower paint from stone chips.
Oh man, I could never drive my car anywhere if I had headers that protrude down as low as yours. My car has the front lowered about an inch and that's an inch more than minimum clearance. are those Hooker comps, or super comps? I'm not really sure if even the Ford Powertrain Applications units will live, on my chassis height.
 
One final thought, make sure you have proper bypass flow to prevent coolant blowout due to hot spots during warmup. This is usually more of an issue with aluminum water pumps (non Ford) or cars with AC.
 
Oh man, I could never drive my car anywhere if I had headers that protrude down as low as yours. My car has the front lowered about an inch and that's an inch more than minimum clearance. are those Hooker comps, or super comps? I'm not really sure if even the Ford Powertrain Applications units will live, on my chassis height.
I run 1" lowered in the front also Spike with no header to ground mishaps over many, many years. I try not to impress anyone trying to go over railroad tracks too fast though! Fronts are 245-60×15's. Spindle to fender wheel arch is 13" and ground to fender arch is 25-1/2". I alternate between Hooker Super Comps 1-7/8" silver Jet Hot and White 2" Appliance Industries (love White headers). Ground clearance between the Appliance and Hooker SC's are both exactly 3-1/2"
 
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