Rear springs

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Joined
Jan 29, 2011
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Location
PA.
My Car
1971 Mustang Coupe
Never Done.
Started this project in late April, all four corners of the car up on jack stands. Was rebuilding front suspension and putting new limited slip in rear end. Due to some health problems project put on hold until last weekend (7-28-12).

After putting the wheels back on, it was like my rear springs sagged big time.

They are original, I put 1 inch lowering springs in the front to even it out, Now this. My question is What new springs do I need in the rear to level this out. Standard, mid eye?The front springs are MustangPlus Grab-a-trac 620's

I'm thinking standard for the rear, but You Guys are the Experts:)

 
Started this project in late April, all four corners of the car up on jack stands. Was rebuilding front suspension and putting new limited slip in rear end. Due to some health problems project put on hold until last weekend (7-28-12).

After putting the wheels back on, it was like my rear springs sagged big time.

They are original, I put 1 inch lowering springs in the front to even it out, Now this. My question is What new springs do I need in the rear to level this out. Standard, mid eye?The front springs are MustangPlus Grab-a-trac 620's

I'm thinking standard for the rear, but You Guys are the Experts:)
Did you set the car on it's wheels before you tightened the spring perches? If not, That's part of the problem. Torque the bolts with the weight of the car after you loosen them and bounce it a couple of times. May be bound in the front.

 
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I put new 1" lift leafs in the back, along with the 1" lowering coils on front on mine, I like the stance that I have now.

It is important to pre-load the springs before tightening everything down.

 
I am running stock front and rear springs in mine, but i have shackles installed in the back. Everyone says it makes a rough ride but mine isnt bad at all. And i like the stance it has.

i39t3s.png


vy75o8.jpg


 
I would go to a mid eye 1 inch drop spring that uses 5 leaves to the axle, but 4 to the shackle. Less wheel hop without the harsh ride of 5 leaf 200 pound rate springs. If that is too high a 1" lowering block can fine tune it

 
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Thanks All. Went with 5 leaf to the axle 4 to the shackle. Standard eye.

Maybe about and inch higher in the rear, but looks good. Hope to have some pics up soon.

 
I am running stock front and rear springs in mine, but i have shackles installed in the back. Everyone says it makes a rough ride but mine isnt bad at all. And i like the stance it has.

i39t3s.png


vy75o8.jpg
Kevin - the driver's seat appears to be significantly misadjusted for the driver in Pic 1... :D

Hijack over...

 
I am running stock front and rear springs in mine, but i have shackles installed in the back. Everyone says it makes a rough ride but mine isnt bad at all. And i like the stance it has.

i39t3s.png


vy75o8.jpg
Kevin - the driver's seat appears to be significantly misadjusted for the driver in Pic 1... :D

Hijack over...
LOL!! Yeah just a little bit!! Thats my 5 year old son and you cant keep him out of the car or the garage. He says thats his car when he's old enough to drive and i will just have to get another. i told him we can get him one and restore it together so its ready for him when he turns 16. ( i think i'm more excited about that than he is) :D

 
One item I do not see much talk are the bolt on sub frame connectors. When I rebuilt the front and rear end suspensions of 1971 sports roof, I added a set of bolt on sub frame connectors. I am rebuilding a 1973 coupe and I have a new set to install on it. I can tell a big difference on how the car rides and handles with them on.

website:

http://johnsmustang.com/Subframe-Connectors-Coupe-FB-Only-71-73-Mustang

Also, according to handling information, they recommend replacing leaf springs with the factory specs and concentrate on the roll bars. Recommend 1 inch bar on the front and 3/4 inch on the back. Also, install the roller spring perches to help loosen the travel of the front end.

mustang7173

 
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