Rebuild time.

[73pony]

OK, an engine rebuild has been in my plans for sometime now and I think it is time to start doing some serious research and start putting my budget together. Here is what I have, what I want, etc etc.

Currently '73 H Code (Stock, never been apart) w/AC and power steering, Headman long tube headers, 5 Speed conversion, 2.75 open gears.

What I would like is a moderate performance rebuild. I will be upgrading the rear end to either 3.50 or 3.70 trac-lok. I have a 2v 4bbl intake (Holley Street Dominator). I've never personally rebuilt a motor other than motorcycle before but two of my good friends are mechanics and have offered to help out and teach me.

What I am looking for is suggestions on kits or brands that you have experience with and have had good luck. I would like to stick with the 2v style heads as I already have the headers and intake for them. I can get a set of Aussie 2v heads at a reasonable rate, so I was thinking about doing that as part of my build to switch over to closed chamber. I would like to still run on pump gas (I can get 91 octane no ethanol easily and there are two places in the area with 93).

Obviously I will need to get it torn apart and off to machine to determine bore size and bearings prior to any purchase. Also looking for cam suggestions etc. Any advice is welcome and appreciated.

 

[rocket366]

Jason

There will be many ppl with opinions on the subject.

I think a mention about how the car will be driven with an expected

rev limit and budget may be in order to narrow down what you are after.

Paul

Edit; Reread the post perhaps you said enough

 

[will e]

When I do it again I will get a roller cam. Yes, they cost more. But there are a lot of advantages to the faster ramp speed AND you don't have to worry about cam break in.

Unless you are going to spin it at high RPM's for sustained periods you don't need to do any oil modifications. But you might consider an extra capacity oil pan, never hurts.

I don't have input on kits. I would go with forged pistons and roller rockers.

 

[73pony]

Just an edit. I am looking more to make good low end power, not planning on spinning high RPM's for any sustained period of time. I am going to do a compression test tonight, I ran out of time last night but one of my friends was over and after some investigating he came up with the following suggestion. Run a compression test, depending on results also do a leak down. If the bottom end is still good which he suspects it is. Just do the Aussie 2v heads with a new moderate cam, timing chain & gears, water pump etc. Basically a top end and cam. If I am correct the stock 73 pistons have an 8 cc dish so based on the math the Aussie heads should put my compression ratio around 10.4 to 10.5. Thoughts? There is only just over 70,000 miles on the car.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

You might want to consider a 3.25 with the A/C. Also keeps rpm about 3000 at 70+ on the highway....unless you go AOD.

Roller lifters, rockers is the only way to go IMO for the cost.

 

[73pony]

You might want to consider a 3.25 with the A/C. Also keeps rpm about 3000 at 70+ on the highway....unless you go AOD.

Roller lifters, rockers is the only way to go IMO for the cost.

I have a 5 speed in the car with a 0.68 OD, hence the taller gears.

 

[73pony]

Also, is anyone running the Aussie 2v heads with a performance cam? if so what cam are you running and what are your thoughts on it.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I would definitely go with a hydraulic roller cam. If you really are at 10.4 to 1 compression with that combination, I'd be a little surprised. One thing to check when the heads are off is how deep the pistons sit below deck height as this will allow a more accurate static compression calculation.

Running a 5 speed for a time, I found that the 3.50 gear is the highest (lowest numerically) that kept the engine from turning too slow in OD on the interstate with 26" tall tires

One thing about building a top end and maintaining the stock bottom end is that if there is wear it will accelerate.

Definitely get new not only a new oil pump, but an improved oil pump drive shaft such as the ARP. Obviously a new timing set is in order as well.

Head build should use new 1 piece stainless steel valves. Factory ones are prone to having the head pop off and destroy the engine

As to a cam-I like the Lunati products- for a build such as yours, I would call and talk to them about the best choice, but would start with something like this

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=3189&gid=289

I will go ahead and warn you that with increased valve lift you will need to verify piston to valve clearance and get the rocker arm geometry correct. If using roller rockers, it is sometimes helpful to use BBC rocker arm studs and to buy valves .10 longer than stock. You will probably need to replace your pushrods to get the length right.

I like the Harlan Sharp roller rockers

I would expect the heads will need to be cut for screw in studs and guide plates. I doubt your combo will otherwise adjust for proper valve lash.

There are lots of things to consider-it is probably best to go ahead and make a list of everything you intend to put into the engine and then run it past someone that builds cleveland engines on a regular basis to make sure everything will play well together

 

[mustang7173]

73pony,

Here is the DYI website on some how to Build 351 Cleveland

http://diyford.com/category/ford-351-cleveland-engine/

+1 on the roller cam setup.

Some of the modifications I did to my 351C was to chamfered the crankshaft oil holes, shot penned / magnafluxed /180,000 rod bolts connecting rods with Power Forged pistons running 2V cylinder heads.

Magnafluxed- http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/magnafluxing.html

351 Cleveland Roller-Cam Conversion

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/26378/

Today, I would love to ceramic coat the top of the pistons to help dissipate the heat better.

Thanks,

mustang7173

 

[barnett468]

CHI 2V HEADS

http://www.chiheads.com.au/product-category/heads/ford-cylinder-heads/2v/

If you want fairly big hp you need to port them a little.

Eddy air gap intake is better than what you have . just sell the street master on ehay.

MOREL lifters

3.50 gears unless you want to race it.

Roll master timing set with IWIS chain.

4032 piston material

set the front cam bearing .003" to .005" deep.

standard melling oil pump but disassemble and clean it and run a ball hone in the bypass bore for 10 seconds with wd40 . lightly sand the bypass valve with 1200 paper.

half grooved main bearings.

.

 

[Mister 4x4]

As Paul mentioned, there are a lot of ways to skin that cat.

My recipe from rebuilding my 351C-2V, which according to CompCams CamQuest utility, should make around 400hp at the crank on pump gas:

-- .060" bores w/9.5:1 Keith Black hypereutectic flat-top pistons

-- CompCams Roller cam 274/274 w.566" lift (.218/.218 @.050" on 110 lobes)

-- CompCams Roller "Everything" (1.73 Rockers, lifters, rods, rod guides)

-- Crane Cams screw-in 7/16" rocker studs

-- Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock Performer 600CFM carb

-- 3-angle valve job & hardened seats (rebuilt the stock 2V heads)

-- Chrome 'stock' oil pan, Edelbrock valve covers

-- Holley "Black" electric fuel pump

-- Duraspark ignition w/Accel Super Coil & 8mm wires

-- Hooker Competition Ceramic-coated Long-Tube Headers

-- Pypes 2.5" stainless exhaust w/X-pipe

-- Pypes Street Pro mufflers

-- Moroso overflow bottle

-- "Pantera Mod" 351C thermostat/restrictor plate modification

Backed up by an AOD transmission w/3.00 rear cogs.

This set-up is not particularly cheap, but it also comes from a complete tear-down of a seized engine having sat for 30+ years. The engine fires every time, runs like a champ, has throttle response like crazy, and never gets hot (thanks to the Pantera Mod).

Hope that helps.

 

[c9zx]

The leak down test is a good idea to roughly determine the current condition. I'd also temporarily install an oil pressure gauge in place of the sending unit to measure hot and cold oil pressure at idle and 2000-3000 RPM. This may tell you something about the condition of the bearings and oil pump. The Aussie 2V CC heads (302C) do pick up compression and help lessen the chance of detonation. Not much gain in flow, unported. Ball park the distributor advance curve before the disassembly. As Jeff said, piston deck height will change compression considerably. I would expect the piston to be down the bore at least .020 unless the pistons have been changed or the block decked. It is something to check when the heads are pulled. Also as Jeff said, spend the money for good valve train components as well as adjustable rocker. Getting rocker geometry right without an adjustable valve train can be a pain. I'll be in the minority on the roller cam for the build you described. I feel a flat tappet will work fine and the money saved can go to other needs/wants. Just use proper break in oil and proper break in procedures. After break in use oil appropriate for a flat tappet cam. Have the heads done by a real performance shop familiar with clevelands.

Here is a link to a good compression calculator. http://www.diamondracing.net/tools/

Good luck with the build. Chuck