Removing hood springs

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Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
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Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 Mach 1 w/408C stroker
I need some tips to remove the hood springs. I saw different ideas like the one of using a chain or engine belt to pull the spring or the one where you use a bunch of washers. The belt idea didn't work for me. I have the NACA Ram air springs and those things are tight. I was not able to pull them with the belt. I have not tried the washer idea since I already removed the hood and I don't like the idea of having a bunch of washers fall all over. I tried used a long screw driver but I didn't find a good angle to expande the spring enough to get it off the hook. Any other ideas?
 
When I used to work at Nick's T-Birds ( years ago ), we used to replace Thunderbird hood springs with some regularity. What we used, was a long looped strap, like a tow strap, one end looped over the end of the hood spring, and the other around your body around the back or waist. All you had to do was take out the slack , walking backwards away from the car, when taught, just lean back, your body's weight and leverage is enough to pull the spring's hook end off of the hinge. The springs went on the same way.
 
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Spike, you really know how to "Put your back into it." What happened when the spring came off? Two guys to catch the hood? Chuck
 
Hey C9, We used a hood prop rod to hold the hood wide open. Usually, when the hood springs got weak, we had to use the prop rod anyway just to work under the hood. Once the hook end of the spring cleared the hinge you released the pull on the strap and just removed it by hand, One side at a time.
We did the big 'birds at Nick's, the '58 to '67 models. I restored a couple of the "Bullet Birds" ( '61-'63 ), there. I went on to do a '63 Sport Thunderbird for a collector, who took "Best Restored Trailered", which means it was not street driven and perfect. Sport Thunderbirds are the convertable models that had three-twos on their 390 engines, factory wire wheels, and a fibreglass tonneau cover over the back seats, giving it a long two-seater roadster look.
Seems like a lifetime ago now....
 
Hey C9, We used a hood prop rod to hold the hood wide open. Usually, when the hood springs got weak, we had to use the prop rod anyway just to work under the hood. Once the hook end of the spring cleared the hinge you released the pull on the strap and just removed it by hand, One side at a time.
We did the big 'birds at Nick's, the '58 to '67 models. I restored a couple of the "Bullet Birds" ( '61-'63 ), there. I went on to do a '63 Sport Thunderbird for a collector, who took "Best Restored Trailered", which means it was not street driven and perfect. Sport Thunderbirds are the convertable models that had three-twos on their 390 engines, factory wire wheels, and a fibreglass tonneau cover over the back seats, giving it a long two-seater roadster look.
Seems like a lifetime ago now....
My dad had a 64 T-bird convertible with the fiberglass cover over the back seat for years as a toy when I was a kid. I don't know if it was supposed to be on that car but it fit and looked awesome. He had it from the early 70s until around 81 when my older brother totaled it, Dad was not happy. That car was awesome it had the sequential turn signals and the trunk was hydraulic and came over the opening for the top so even without the back seat cover it looked like it never had a top.
 
I tried pulling the spring with a belt with all my might and little weight and didn't budge. I tried the brake tool and it was bending. Eventually I did it with a big screw driver against the edge of the bracket. I was surprised to see how much the spring really extends. The spring goes from 7" to 10.45". That's a lot more than what I expected. Does anyone know what is the spring rate? That would be almost 4" times the spring rate.
 
I need some tips to remove the hood springs. I saw different ideas like the one of using a chain or engine belt to pull the spring or the one where you use a bunch of washers. The belt idea didn't work for me. I have the NACA Ram air springs and those things are tight. I was not able to pull them with the belt. I have not tried the washer idea since I already removed the hood and I don't like the idea of having a bunch of washers fall all over. I tried used a long screw driver but I didn't find a good angle to expande the spring enough to get it off the hook. Any other ideas?
I had to take the hood off then take the hinge off. I needed a wood pallet but I didn’t have one so I used a fold up metal chair.
I laid the hinge down and attached a ratchet strap and started clicking it stretched the spring and I lined it up with the groves on the new hinges. At that time I released the strap allowing the spring to snap in place on the hinge.
I tried all the other ways those springs are to strong for that pulling stuff. Or I’m not strong enough one.😊
 
I don't know if anyone knows the rate of these springs, but I borrowed the force meter from work and I measured about 100 to 120 lbs/in. To put it in perspective, the spring is extended about ~3/4" when the hood is up and you would need about ~3/8" of extension to remove the spring. That means you need to pull about 75-90 lbs to just move the spring and about 110-135 lbs to extend it enough to remove it from its slot. That's a lot of weight and a lot of pull. Now that I have the hood out I want to try weighing it. My guess is close to 100 lbs with the Ram Air inlet removed. The new fiberglass hood going in should be about 30 lbs.
 
Hey C9, We used a hood prop rod to hold the hood wide open. Usually, when the hood springs got weak, we had to use the prop rod anyway just to work under the hood. Once the hook end of the spring cleared the hinge you released the pull on the strap and just removed it by hand, One side at a time.
We did the big 'birds at Nick's, the '58 to '67 models. I restored a couple of the "Bullet Birds" ( '61-'63 ), there. I went on to do a '63 Sport Thunderbird for a collector, who took "Best Restored Trailered", which means it was not street driven and perfect. Sport Thunderbirds are the convertable models that had three-twos on their 390 engines, factory wire wheels, and a fibreglass tonneau cover over the back seats, giving it a long two-seater roadster look.
Seems like a lifetime ago now....
Spike, I know about the sport Thunderbirds. The bullet Birds are pretty to look at but, a PITA to work on. I helped friend with one many years ago. I can't imagine restoring one, more electrical gremlins than you can shake a stick at. Even Mid-life would run from it. Chuck
 
I used an extra seat belt to remove and replace my springs. Saw that trick on West Coast Cougar, I think.
 
Spike, I know about the sport Thunderbirds. The bullet Birds are pretty to look at but, a PITA to work on. I helped friend with one many years ago. I can't imagine restoring one, more electrical gremlins than you can shake a stick at. Even Mid-life would run from it. Chuck
Yeah, big birds are a "niche" crowd. As the big birds get older and more worn out, the "park lock out" in the swing away steering wheel mechanism wears out, causing a Thunderbird left running in park with the steering wheel swung away, to jump into gear. It makes finding a "cherry" front bumper harder and harder to find, as they are getting used ( smashed ) up. To be carefull with a customer's car, we either left the steering wheel in place, running in park, or shut off the motor. Sadly, those big birds need just as much, in terms of restoration today, as any other old car, but aren't worth as much so return on the dollar is low. Add to that the 2-3 mpg ( exagerating ), that those old 390s got, and it becomes apparent that they're not for everyone. The folding top/trunk electrical solenoid pack is replaced today with an aftermarket relay pack. Most power accessories are fixed today with relays due to old wiring restricting power to the motors, ( like the power windows, or seat adjust motors). You're right though, it's a task. Charging systems were Generators until '63 too. A cherry "bird sure is beautiful to look at though.
 
I asked this question earlier this week but got no answer as yet…on these 2 square hood hinge springs that I saved when I replaced my hinges with NOS ones, one’s hoop ends are visibly longer than the other…stretched, right vs left different? D9315064-A3E1-4615-9973-3193D7B16682.jpeg
 
Yeah, big birds are a "niche" crowd. As the big birds get older and more worn out, the "park lock out" in the swing away steering wheel mechanism wears out, causing a Thunderbird left running in park with the steering wheel swung away, to jump into gear. It makes finding a "cherry" front bumper harder and harder to find, as they are getting used ( smashed ) up. To be carefull with a customer's car, we either left the steering wheel in place, running in park, or shut off the motor. Sadly, those big birds need just as much, in terms of restoration today, as any other old car, but aren't worth as much so return on the dollar is low. Add to that the 2-3 mpg ( exagerating ), that those old 390s got, and it becomes apparent that they're not for everyone. The folding top/trunk electrical solenoid pack is replaced today with an aftermarket relay pack. Most power accessories are fixed today with relays due to old wiring restricting power to the motors, ( like the power windows, or seat adjust motors). You're right though, it's a task. Charging systems were Generators until '63 too. A cherry "bird sure is beautiful to look at though.
That's funny you mentioned the sliding column dropping into gear, my sister almost ran me over and destroyed my bike with my dad's 64 T-Bird convert. She was pulling the car in to the garage from the horseshoe portion of the driveway and started it up and it was running rough so she revved the engine to clear it out as she slid the the steering column into position it dropped into reverse and came barreling back in reverse. Because the front wheels were turned, it came swinging out wide, right at me. I dove off my bike into the bushes and the car pulled the bike under and dragged it for 10-15 feet before she stopped the car. Sparks were flying everywhere, it was kinda cool from a 10 year old perspective. She was on a permit and it freaked her out so bad that she didn't want to get her license for two more years. So yeah, I know that the T-birds drop into gear when you slide the steering column if they are worn out, and probably will never forget that fact.
 
I asked this question earlier this week but got no answer as yet…on these 2 square hood hinge springs that I saved when I replaced my hinges with NOS ones, one’s hoop ends are visibly longer than the other…stretched, right vs left different? View attachment 69018
Interesting. Even the texture of the coils look different. My guess is that one is stock and the other some kind of universal or replacement, or maybe they tried to change the force of the spring by making it longer/shorter.
 
If anyone wants these hood springs for their needs, shoot me an offer and add about $20 to priority ship...both springs have been refinished or phosphated, the way they came on my hood hinges which I changed out...the ones pictured in the above post...from this last Friday
I’ll add a few things I want to sell here, and then list them again in classified section ( they tend to get overlooked in classified as time progresses: console clock complete with wire group, coil burned but repairable, or use for parts or upgrade to digital, and a dealership salesman accessory pricing pamphlet for putting car order together...$125 for both + shipping9C40A981-53D4-49AC-8FC6-1F2E5286CEAD.jpegC5836E09-C378-482E-AF1A-7A79486067C1.jpeg4E009585-F298-4349-B773-E136649E7CCE.jpegD9E7017A-1577-444A-B4A9-78B2771AA899.jpegF4AAB101-CD8F-4710-A751-C29CA48B13F2.jpeg
 
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