Rising Clutch Pedal

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Parts needed:

Z-bar bushing kit:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/bushing-kit-clutch-linkage/206417/200933

z-bar to clutch rod bushing, you need 2:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/bushing-clutch-release-rods/105798/200933

Clutch fork dust boot:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/boot-clutch-release-lever-repro/105765/200933

Upper spring:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/spring-clutch-release-lever-rod-retracting/207446/200933

Lower spring:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/spring-clutch-lever-retracting/105869/200933

Might want to get a couple of cotter pins, you may break or loose one, I know I did:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/spring-clip-cotter-pin/167420/200933

Check the upper dust boot, if bad replace it:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/seal-clutch-pedal-rod/105998/200933

I used NPD links, as they have the easiest website to use. You may want to buy from your preferred supplier. Ohio Mustang is a forum sponsor and usually has better prices than NPD and most others.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Kudo's to 71ProjectJunk. Good info there. Yes, before you pull that assist spring from under the dash, make sure of the clutch type, but I suspect diaphragm.

As far as bushing in the link rods, do you have any machinist skills or able to ream out the holes to fit bronze oilite bushings? If you are, I highly suggest going that route as they will far outlast the plastic ones and give a far better feel. Go back to the pdf downloads I posted earlier. Below is the type of bushing I'm suggesting. These ones are the wrong size, but will give you an idea. The size you need is 3/8 x 1/2 x 1/2" (4 required I think) and 1 FL43-4, but no size listed on my receipt. These are Flanged Oilite bushings.

For the life of me, I do NOT remember if I had to build up the steel around the bushing holes, I  don't think so, but be warned that might be needed. Still worth it though.

Oilite Bushing.pdf

 

Attachments

  • Oilite Bushing.pdf
    282.5 KB
Oh boy indeed. Yep, that spring is in there!! The spring on the fork to push rod is definitely not correct either.

I don't recall you saying exactly what clutch you have in the car. I'm assuming it's a diaphragm style, not the original long finger type. That's important to know. If you have the newer diaphragm clutch, that spring has to be removed and your problems will go away. However, correct set up is crucial as I'm sure you're aware. Unfortunately, these do not allow for perfect pedal height adjustment and get full travel. On mine, I have to have the pedal set as high as possible, but I still need full travel to the floor boards to ensure the clutch is fully disengaged to stop grinding the gears. It's a pity no-one has come up with a hydraulic clutch mechanism that is a direct replacement for the Z bar crappy set-up we have to use. I know there are aftermarket clutch replacement kits, both hydraulic and cable, but I don't think there is one to replace just the Z bar and linkages. That would be really nice to have! 

Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Glad to know that this is sort of "normal'. I also have the clutch as high as possible with the rubber stop removed and have to push all the way to the firewall to shift.

 
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