Rust in hood cavity???

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My Car
72 Mach 1, Q code 351CJ, 4 speed.
Structurally my hood appears to be in good shape with no dents or dings.  I do have a rust hole about the size of a quarter under the right side front lip that I think I can fix. I will post a pic of that later this afternoon when I get home from work.   But I have rust flakes\dust inside the cavity of the hood.  Has anyone else experienced this and how did you resolve?  If I were to blow it out with air is there something I can do to get a rust inhibitor in there and coat everything??

Thanks

Wade

 
scgamecock,

Is it a flat or Ram Air hood? Well, you could take it to an automotive stripper and have it dipped in an acid bath. This would remove the rust inside. Second, if it is a Ram Air Hood, buy a reproduction one, hope they would not be to expensive. Third, if is a flat hood, Ouch, No Reproductions! NOS one not cheap or you will have to find another one in better shape.

http://chem-strip.com/services/

mustang7173

 
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Buy a new one. They are like $350 not worth the effort involved unless you have more time than money

 
scgamecock,

Is it a flat or Ram Air hood? Well, you could take it to an automotive stripper and have it dipped in an acid bath. This would remove the rust inside. Second, if it is a Ram Air Hood, buy a reproduction one, hope they would not be to expensive. Third, if is a flat hood, Ouch, No Reproductions! NOS one not cheap or you will have to find another one in better shape.

mustang7173
Its a ram air.  Aren't they like $500 new??

 
scgamecock,

Is it a flat or Ram Air hood? Well, you could take it to an automotive stripper and have it dipped in an acid bath. This would remove the rust inside. Second, if it is a Ram Air Hood, buy a reproduction one, hope they would not be to expensive. Third, if is a flat hood, Ouch, No Reproductions! NOS one not cheap or you will have to find another one in better shape.

mustang7173
Its a ram air.  Aren't they like $500 new??
That may be possible once you add the Truck freight. Ohio Mustang has it for $349.00. You can call  or email Don, to request quote due to truck freight charges to ship.

mustang7173

mustang713

 
Well it might be cheaper and less hassle just to buy a new one!!!  $414 and NPD is about 15 miles from me so maybe no freight charges.

NPD NASA Hood
scgamecock,

Oh yea! I have traveled to them from Wake Forest several times to save that Freight charge. You know that Master Power Brakes is North of Charlotte. That is where I go my humongous Big Ford Brake kit from.

Sounds like a good plan to me!

mustang7173

 
I have rust coming through in exactly that spot. Maybe I'll use it as a learning project and cut it out and weld in a new piece just for kicks but eventually I'm gonna get a new hood I reckon.

 
I have rust coming through in exactly that spot. Maybe I'll use it as a learning project and cut it out and weld in a new piece just for kicks but eventually I'm gonna get a new hood I reckon.
Funny you mention this.  I was just thinking that I could use this hood as practice for installing the hood locks.  The cut outs on the under side are already there so I just need to drill the rest.  If I screw it up hopefully I will learn what not to do! lollerz

 
As a lifelong resident of the 'rust-belt' region who has owned several 71-73's since the 70's as daily drivers, the inner rust in a daily driver 'stang hood was inevitable and once it appeared (i.e. small blister in lower front corner), the speed of the deterioration could be measured in months. Replacing with an inexpensive modern reproduction is something we could not even dream of 30 yrs ago.

Sorry for the brief nostalgia, but it really brought back memories of dealing with it on the cheap in various (usually doomed to failure) methods. Most involved fiberglass and bondo!

 
Too late now but there was a New Repo NASA hood in Asheville for sale for $200 still in the box. I started to buy but already had 4 sitting in shop.

Someone said acid dip. They do not use acid to my knowledge. I have a 72 vert that was dipped at Chem Strip and there is not bleed out at any joints like I have heard horror stories about. I know they have shop in S.C. but forget where. We use to send them parts from our stamping plant if they got rusty to clean. If you do that and they rinse out proper and phosphate coat it you can get the long wands to put on aersol cans to spray inside the hood cavity. I thin Eastwood sells them.

Even a new hood that has gone through ecoat is not painted inside the cavity. There is not enough of a flow of the material into those areas so they will start to rust immediately, bare CRS no zinc coating.

You can also use molasses and clean it yourself. You will need to find a kids swimming pool big enough to accept the hood. You will need to flip several times so air pockets are removed during the couple weeks it takes to get the rust off. Very cheap about $20.00 will make 50 gallons. 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. I have tank with something in it all the time. I have a blast cabinet and also a pressure fed sand blaster but seldom use except to get texture like on hood hinges and such.

Getting one of those hoods shipped without damage is not easy either. The fall swap meet in Charlotte would be a good place to pick one up. Contact some of the vendors and see if they are going and you could have them deliver. There is also NPD in Charlotte and you could go get it to save the shipping and damage.

The repo hoods are not welded at the hem to allow you to re-arch the hood to match the fenders. Most shim the fenders but you can much easier change the hood arch to fit.

You have lots of options.

 
@bill73Ragtop As a lifelong resident of the 'rust-belt' region...

ahahaha, I live in holland, which is where rust was invented :)

Tho just wanted say that my 73, and 93 t-bird (always outside) do get a treatment that actually work. Like say, once a year or whenever some cavity comes in sight

while doing some maintenance. I spray just a "cloud" of penetrating oil, just so its covered. Turns out being very effective. Cleaning before new layer,

is just wiping with dry cloth and because its very thin, not much debris or dust stick to it either. It work better than any "magic rust killa"

I've tried before. My 73 hood is really as new. Unlike the 71 which never got that treatment (got it few years ago and it went in storage right away), It's clear, that I will have to make some effort before its too late.

One thing I want explore as rain seems to return more and more often these days is sacrificial anodes (in zinc, alu or magnesium).

On metal boats and trucks for liquid food/drinks like milk, they do weld,screw these unprotected bits of metal, that become the corrosion targets.

The parts protected do no corrode while the targets are not fully gone.

As rust doesn't care if it is a boat or a 71-73 mustangs. I want learn more about it and give a it try one of these days.

Edit: its called cathodic protection

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection

 
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@bill73Ragtop As a lifelong resident of the 'rust-belt' region...

ahahaha, I live in holland, which is where rust was invented :)

Tho just wanted say that my 73, and 93 t-bird (always outside) do get a treatment that actually work. Like say, once a year or whenever some cavity comes in sight

while doing some maintenance. I spray just a "cloud" of penetrating oil, just so its covered. Turns out being very effective. Cleaning before new layer,

is just wiping with dry cloth and because its very thin, not much debris or dust stick to it either. It work better than any "magic rust killa"

I've tried before. My 73 hood is really as new. Unlike the 71 which never got that treatment (got it few years ago and it went in storage right away), It's clear, that I will have to make some effort before its too late.

One thing I want explore as rain seems to return more and more often these days is sacrificial anodes (in zinc, alu or magnesium).

On metal boats and trucks for liquid food/drinks like milk, they do weld,screw these unprotected bits of metal, that become the corrosion targets.

The parts protected do no corrode while the targets are not fully gone.

As rust doesn't care if it is a boat or a 71-73 mustangs. I want learn more about it and give a it try one of these days.

Edit: its called cathodic protection

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection

They have had the little boxes you hook up to battery to stop rust for years here in U.S. back in 50's or 60's were first I think. Do they work I do not know never had one.
 
They have had the little boxes you hook up to battery to stop rust for years

Hooked up to battery? I didn't know this... will search for it.

I mean, what if this actually works??

71-73 are really poorly designed when it comes to water handling

and if I need weld/screw/hook some metal plate to protect the car, its really no big thing. In worst case, it doesn't work that's all.

If it works, then this means, I can save big on the oil I spray :)

Edit: found multiple matches that basically say same: as there is no full circuit and no way to build one for a car, it does not work at all.

here's one http://corrosion-doctors.org/Car/carCP.htm

 
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I have rust coming through in exactly that spot. Maybe I'll use it as a learning project and cut it out and weld in a new piece just for kicks but eventually I'm gonna get a new hood I reckon.
Funny you mention this.  I was just thinking that I could use this hood as practice for installing the hood locks.  The cut outs on the under side are already there so I just need to drill the rest.  If I screw it up hopefully I will learn what not to do! lollerz
I'lll PM you on arranging picking up a hood in Charlotte

 
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