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O.K. Water's back on. It was however pointed out that now the pump needs done! The things I do for this sight. :p
Lookin' spiffy, Mark.

Also looks like this could be a clinical case study for "while I'm at it" syndrome. ;)

Now, get that pump taken care of before we tell your wife how much time you spend on this site. :D

 
The most surefire way to keep rust away?

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It's a little bit older than a 73, but should work the same.

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Here's my 2 cents...

After being a tech rep for PPG and Akzo Nobel for 5 years and spending tons of time at the PPG training center near me, I learned a lot about what certain chemicals that are in refinish products actually do. My 1st choice for rust removal/conversion is NEXA Autocolor's (a PPG brand) deruster part #P800-127. However, at just over $100.00 for a gallon, it's nuts! Especially if you do a little homework and know how to read an MSDS. Here's the tech sheet: https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishproductcatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileID=8cfd55b9-6e5d-4f50-a3c3-9533cd4f810d and here's the MSDS: http://www.hex.co.uk/MSDS/nexa/ENG/P800-127.pdf

The main active ingredient in this stuff is phosphoric acid, which does a great job at converting rust. If you look up the MSDS on a lot of these types of products, many of them also contain PA. that being said, I also found out that this product has a significant amount more PA than most others.

Here's the kicker, like I said, by the time you buy enough of the stuff to treat your whole car, you could've paid to have it media blasted and been done. So...go to home depot and buy straight PA for about $12.00 a gallon, take it home, and start derusting! Just be sure to rinse the crap out of it with isopropyl alcohol followed by a generous amount of water to neutralize the remaining acid. Then VERY quickly grab your blow gun and some towels and dry it off to prevent flash rust from happening. Coat with your favorite primer within 48 hrs and you're good to go! If you wait longer just hit it again with the PA, but it will be quicker this time since the rust is already gone, your just freshening it up.

Hope this helps!

 
I have friends and customers that have used POR-15 and its awesome you can thin it out and spray it on like primer or you can brush it on with a brush and it does a great job like undercoating. They also make stuff to treat fuel tanks that are rusty and re-seal them after they are treated so they do not rust again.

 
Stripped, blasted and prepared the pump for the wishing well yesterday and today thought "What the hell, I'll try something different on it" So here is the pump after 3 light coats of Permatex Rust Treatment # 81849. It has to sit 24 hours, but I'll get it primed and painted tomorrow and back in service on Wednesday.

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I happen to notice rust on the pump last night and am going to clean the pot (POR-15) and the pump (Permatex)today and will post up the results.

 
I happen to notice rust on the pump last night and am going to clean the pot (POR-15) and the pump (Permatex)today and will post up the results.
Man that was quick 3 months & the rust is back...Guess the last treatment materials didn't work ? (your last post 1/29)

 
Well the POR-15 does promote algea growth :p. After cleaning the pot coated POR showed ZERO rust. The Permatex has been removed from the shelf in my garage.

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http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/

found this stuff at the Turkey Rod Run. I stroll by and this guy pipes up "interested in rust proofing your car?".... maybe... 'you look like a stout fella... pick up that aluminum can and see if you can crush it.

"well ... okay"

I dang near gave myself a hernia .... that was with one coating!!!! So I treated the entire 65 SS with it. I guarantee I'll use it again. It is self leveling and leaves a near perfect smooth appearance. The thing I like is that you can tint the top coat to match your car!!!

 
UPDATE!!!

After almost a year and a half!

Last night the weld broke on the pot handle while I was cleaning everthing out for fresh water. :mad: Made a new one out of a oven rack but happened to notice that there is still ZERO RUST! :D And apparenlty by following POR-15 directions for painting I'll not be stripping and repainting this thig this year. Very good stuff. IMHO :sleepy:

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For rust removal I would strongly recommend never using Eastwood's Gel Rust Dissolver. The active ingredient is hydrochloric acid. Health risks aside, several ounces of this (which oozed out of the faulty container) flash rusted everything within a 20 foot radius overnight. This included the majority of the 52 Chevy truck cab I had just finish sanding to bare metal. It took 2 large boxes of baking soda,a case of scotch brite pads ad several months to neutralize the fume contamination from that crap. A safer alternative is Klean Strip Phosphoic Prep and Etch. It's about $15/Gal at Home Depot. Make sure to keep it wet and neutralize it with baking soda/distilled water. If it dries while working with it just apply a little more to re wet the area. A small stainless brush works great to work it in to rough areas.

 
O.K. 3 years ago I built this for my wife for valentines day.

A few days ago she pointed out how rusty the pot had become and would I redo it. Hmmmm, POR15 test for the rust thread "Be glad to" This pot has water pouring over it 24/7 and by no means a clinical study but what a great test so here goes! For Q :p Wire wheeled, blasted, Metal Ready then POR-15. Tomorrow will 600 grit sand, prime, and paint and then put the water back to it on Monday. I'm thinking a good test.
Now that right there gentlemen is impressive as hell. Any man that can turn a honey do into research for the mustang is indeed a genius. Kudos Mark!!!

 
For rust removal I would strongly recommend never using Eastwood's Gel Rust Dissolver. The active ingredient is hydrochloric acid. Health risks aside, several ounces of this (which oozed out of the faulty container) flash rusted everything within a 20 foot radius overnight. This included the majority of the 52 Chevy truck cab I had just finish sanding to bare metal. It took 2 large boxes of baking soda,a case of scotch brite pads ad several months to neutralize the fume contamination from that crap. A safer alternative is Klean Strip Phosphoic Prep and Etch. It's about $15/Gal at Home Depot. Make sure to keep it wet and neutralize it with baking soda/distilled water. If it dries while working with it just apply a little more to re wet the area. A small stainless brush works great to work it in to rough areas.
I use Phosphoric Prep & Etch on everything. It's just straight phosphoric acid, which if you read the ingredients in all the major paint manufacturers metal prep or metal wash products is the main ingredient. If you follow the directions and mix it 1:3 you actually get 4 gallons for $15. Sure beats the $75-100ish for a gallon of name brand products like PPG or Akzo Nobel! For heavily pitted areas I'll let it soak for a little bit full strength to dissolve the rust then hit it quick diluted and rinse it clean with water and isopropyl alcohol to neutralize it. Then I use a high quality etching primer, then surfacer, and do my body work on top of the surfacer. It hasn't failed me yet and I've been using this method for quite a while. Also, if you read the instructions for POR15 it does highly recommend prepping the metal first with their Prep & Ready for maximum adhesion. If you read the ingredient section of the Prep & Ready MSDS http://www.por15info.com/msds/MetalReadyMSDS.pdf

It contains water & phosphoric acid. So they don't technically recommend painting directly to "un-prepared" rust. POR15 is a great product in my opinion, but must be used following all of the fine print directions for the best performance.

 
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