Rusted section of rear fender lip

[timachone]

Tony,
as I am living over the pond we have likely different products here so I cannot give an exact recommendation which will help you out. But as far as my experiences are with canned spray paint I would

a) use 2K clear coat spray paint (2 components which could be activated in the can). This paint is mich more durable and resistant.

b) spray paint of the same manufacturer. There you can avoid unwanted paint reactions from different compounds.

As far as this I made good results on small parts. I had to repaint and paint match the fender end caps and used good spray can products. It came out really good. But be aware: between too less clear coat and too much clear coat it's a small gap. And if you do not paint wet-in-wet you must slightly sand your already painted area with a fine grit. Otherwise the clear coat will not really hold on good on the already dried area. You could apply a light sprizz of blue after you sanded lightly the area and apply the clear coat in 2-3 light coats after the correct flash off time between the base paint and the clear coat.

Don't forget to tape up. If you want softer paint overspray for an easier buff out afterwards roll up the edges of the masking tape or paper. So you have not any hard paint edges on the overspray. But please wait for buffing out the overspray. Best would be some weeks until the paint have dried out really good.

Just my 2 cents out of many years of painting with spray cans...

 

[keiths71]

Spray Max makes good 2k spray can clear and spray can blender. Most auto paint stores should have it or equivalent I think Amazon may also carry it. If you use the blender on the clear edge I would do a practice piece with a little luck you will barely have to buff it

 

[tony-muscle]

Tony,
as I am living over the pond we have likely different products here so I cannot give an exact recommendation which will help you out. But as far as my experiences are with canned spray paint I would

a) use 2K clear coat spray paint (2 components which could be activated in the can). This paint is mich more durable and resistant.

b) spray paint of the same manufacturer. There you can avoid unwanted paint reactions from different compounds.

As far as this I made good results on small parts. I had to repaint and paint match the fender end caps and used good spray can products. It came out really good. But be aware: between too less clear coat and too much clear coat it's a small gap. And if you do not paint wet-in-wet you must slightly sand your already painted area with a fine grit. Otherwise the clear coat will not really hold on good on the already dried area. You could apply a light sprizz of blue after you sanded lightly the area and apply the clear coat in 2-3 light coats after the correct flash off time between the base paint and the clear coat.

Don't forget to tape up. If you want softer paint overspray for an easier buff out afterwards roll up the edges of the masking tape or paper. So you have not any hard paint edges on the overspray. But please wait for buffing out the overspray. Best would be some weeks until the paint have dried out really good.

Just my 2 cents out of many years of painting with spray cans...

Thanks. For the fine grit sanding of the paint, do you think something like a 2000 grit or different?

 

[Sheriff41]

Check https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ They have spray cans with the catalyst charge (2 component). Also check with Eastwood, they used to carry the 2 component paints in spray cans.

 

[Don C]

You didn't say what you used for touch up paint, whatever clear coat you use will have to be compatible to avoid bubbling/wrinkling. Whatever you use I would do a test with touch up paint followed by clear coat on a piece of scrap metal. It looks too nice now to have to start over.

 

[timachone]

Thanks. For the fine grit sanding of the paint, do you think something like a 2000 grit or different?

Yes, exactly like that, 2.000 till 3.000 grit, then the polish wheeler.

 

[tony-muscle]

You didn't say what you used for touch up paint, whatever clear coat you use will have to be compatible to avoid bubbling/wrinkling. Whatever you use I would do a test with touch up paint followed by clear coat on a piece of scrap metal. It looks too nice now to have to start over.

I used www.automotivetouchup.com. In their website they sell the SprayMax 2K clear coat as recommended above. So that seems to be the option to go with.

 

[TheDude]

Nice work Tony. And I'm scared to do that kind of thing with my rattle can paint job. I might have to rethink some of my repair plans.

If you use SprayMax 2K or similar, mask off everything, way beyond where you are working and be sure to use a respirator or at least one of those N95 masks you have sitting around. This stuff gets everywhere and travels way farther than regular paint. I was touching up some stuff on the front of my hood and had overspray on my rear glass and back of the car.