Shopping list for coupe conversion to power windows

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Vinnie

Project manager "Project AmsterFoose"
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
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Nov 7, 2013
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Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2V, built on the very last production day (July 6, 1973) for Grande's.
Are you looking to go with OEM style or is aftermarket ok?
OEM style, you will need new door panels and trim, as the power windows used different holes than the manual cranks. You can save some money by using an aftermarket kit that keeps the look of manual windows, but the crank is actually a switch that you pull up or push down.

OEM would need correct wiring harness. Aftermarket, you could pull just the wires you need.

If you dont already have some electrical stuff in your doors, then you will be adding the rubber channels between the door and jamb and poking holes in sheet metal.

New motors, new regulators, switches, wiring are the main stuff.
 
Aftermarket is fine but I saw some aftermarket motors and they are really expensive! I was thinking that maybe at some point I may be able to get my hands on original motors but than I wondered what else I'd need to make them work... I don't need the switches to be in the door, if I can make switches on my console that's fine too. Haven't yet looked at new doorpanels. I may need new ones anyway, if they come with an opening for switches I'll use that I reckon.
 
The glass for power windows will have the cutout on the bottom as shown in your link.

Door panels are the same, you simply need to cut them to clear the switches. The back side of the panel will be embossed with the area to cut.

The BEST way to do the job is to get a complete setup from a '73 parts car - either Cougar or Mustang - if you want the correct '73 switch style. Otherwise, 71-72 will work identically.
 
A lot of items needed to do this to OEM. Here is a list of the major items.
-Wiring harness from the starter solenoid or junction block near the battery the runs over to the driver side shock tower area and through the fire wall next to the main wiring harness already in your car and behind the left kick panel.
-Circuit breaker mounted to the starter solenoid or junction block
-Power window relay, mounts on rear of driver shock tower.
-Wire harness for driver door (includes switch mounting base and rubber corrugated flexible sleeve that goes from "A" pillar into the front of the door) If you have OEM door speakers, the necessary holes in the door and "A" pillar are there.
-Driver door switch (for all four windows and lock out switch for all but driver window)
-Driver door switch bezel
-Driver door glass with half moon cut out to clear power window motor/ regulator assembly
-Driver door motor/ regulator assembly
-Rear of motor support bracket
-Behind the dash wiring harness (goes from behind the driver kick panel area over to behind the passenger kick panel area)
-Accessory feed wire from fuse box
-Passenger door wire harness (includes switch mounting base and rubber corrugated sleeve)
-Passenger door switch (same as quarter window switches)
-Passenger door switch bezel (same as quarter window bezels)
-Passenger door glass with half moon cut out
-Passenger motor/ regulator assembly
-Rear of motor support bracket
-Left quarter window wire harness (includes switch mounting base)
-Black plastic wire harness support
-Left quarter switch
-Left quarter switch bezel
-Left quarter motor/ regulator assembly
-Right quarter window wire harness (includes switch mounting base)
-Black plastic wire harness support
-Right quarter switch
-Right quarter switch bezel
-Right quarter motor regulator assembly
-Various screws and bolts

If you half the convenience group or rear defrost, the hole in the fire wall for the PW wire under hood harness is already there, however the OEM wire harnesses were combined into one harness to accommodate which ever combination of these options the car was built with. Depending what harness you find for the power windows it may need to be combined with an existing harness. As already mentioned, it is best to find a donor car with the power window option (coupe of convertible) (sports roofs/ Mach 1s use different door glass) to obtain all the items needed.
 
If you don't want to go OEM, then check out NuRelic P/W conversion kits for 71-73 Mustangs. I used them to convert my 1970 Mach 1 to P/W. I was able to use my factory manual crank door window glass.

https://www.nu-relics.com/Mustang-Cougar-s/470.htm
 
A lot of items needed to do this to OEM. Here is a list of the major items.
-Wiring harness from the starter solenoid or junction block near the battery the runs over to the driver side shock tower area and through the fire wall next to the main wiring harness already in your car and behind the left kick panel.
-Circuit breaker mounted to the starter solenoid or junction block
-Power window relay, mounts on rear of driver shock tower.
-Wire harness for driver door (includes switch mounting base and rubber corrugated flexible sleeve that goes from "A" pillar into the front of the door) If you have OEM door speakers, the necessary holes in the door and "A" pillar are there.
-Driver door switch (for all four windows and lock out switch for all but driver window)
-Driver door switch bezel
-Driver door glass with half moon cut out to clear power window motor/ regulator assembly
-Driver door motor/ regulator assembly
-Rear of motor support bracket
-Behind the dash wiring harness (goes from behind the driver kick panel area over to behind the passenger kick panel area)
-Accessory feed wire from fuse box
-Passenger door wire harness (includes switch mounting base and rubber corrugated sleeve)
-Passenger door switch (same as quarter window switches)
-Passenger door switch bezel (same as quarter window bezels)
-Passenger door glass with half moon cut out
-Passenger motor/ regulator assembly
-Rear of motor support bracket
-Left quarter window wire harness (includes switch mounting base)
-Black plastic wire harness support
-Left quarter switch
-Left quarter switch bezel
-Left quarter motor/ regulator assembly
-Right quarter window wire harness (includes switch mounting base)
-Black plastic wire harness support
-Right quarter switch
-Right quarter switch bezel
-Right quarter motor regulator assembly
-Various screws and bolts

If you half the convenience group or rear defrost, the hole in the fire wall for the PW wire under hood harness is already there, however the OEM wire harnesses were combined into one harness to accommodate which ever combination of these options the car was built with. Depending what harness you find for the power windows it may need to be combined with an existing harness. As already mentioned, it is best to find a donor car with the power window option (coupe of convertible) (sports roofs/ Mach 1s use different door glass) to obtain all the items needed.
Very complete list. The relay and selenoid are often overlooked. The glass is different for a sports roof than for a Coupe/Convertible. I noticed that repro door glass with the cut-out is suggested use for both power and manual cars. I thought the mounting holes in the glass for the power window regulators were located differently than for manual windows, but I could be mistaken.
 
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