Something's wrong

[Don C]

Yes, it goes to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid/relay. Unless you have factory gauges, then it goes to single pole terminal block.

 

[NOT A T5]

Yes, it goes to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid/relay. Unless you have factory gauges, then it goes to single pole terminal block.

The car did not come with factory gauges but I added them on. Midlife converted my wiring harness, also a tach and voltmeter conversion by The Rocketman was added. Tested all gauges except tach and they're all moving but I don't know how accurate they will be.

Thanks to you sir, when you mentioned NEG battery cable goes to the block! After I bolted that cable to the block I know she'll turn over! I thought I connected that to the block but only had connected the little bracket that holds the starter cable, my stupidity!

 

[Don C]

Hey, we all make mistakes that make us wonder how or why did we do that. I figure if we didn't make mistakes, for one, we wouldn't learn anything, and, for two, we wouldn't be doing anything.

I've got a good excuse now, brain farts caused by old age

 

[NOT A T5]

Hey, we all make mistakes that make us wonder how or why did we do that. I figure if we didn't make mistakes, for one, we wouldn't learn anything, and, for two, we wouldn't be doing anything.

I've got a good excuse now, brain farts caused by old age

LOL, crack me up!

She's cranking I got fuel and spark but not firing. Had a few backfires through the carburetor. Could my dizzy be off by 180?

 

[Don C]

Sounds like it may be, or timing way off. I would double check it. Do you need any help with getting the initial timing set?

 

[NOT A T5]

Sounds like it may be, or timing way off. I would double check it. Do you need any help with getting the initial timing set?

I'm a rookie when it comes to that, so yes if you could help me that would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

[73pony]

Pull the #1 plug. Rotate the engine by hand until the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. (put your finger over the spark plug hole to determine if it is the compression stroke or remove that valve cover and when the piston is coming up both valves should be closed). A quick and dirty to determine TDC is to use a dowel in the spark plug hole and watch it rise as you turn the engine over when it stops and starts to go back down you passed it turn back slightly to get to TDC. Then stab the distributor back in with the rotor pointing at where the #1 is on the distributor. When at TDC or close your timing marks should also indicate "0". this should get you close enough to start the engine and set the actual timing with a timing light. Hope this helps.

 

[NOT A T5]

Pull the #1 plug. Rotate the engine by hand until the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. (put your finger over the spark plug hole to determine if it is the compression stroke or remove that valve cover and when the piston is coming up both valves should be closed). A quick and dirty to determine TDC is to use a dowel in the spark plug hole and watch it rise as you turn the engine over when it stops and starts to go back down you passed it turn back slightly to get to TDC. Then stab the distributor back in with the rotor pointing at where the #1 is on the distributor. When at TDC or close your timing marks should also indicate "0". this should get you close enough to start the engine and set the actual timing with a timing light. Hope this helps.

I did pull #1 plug but turned it with the starter, no helper. I cut the tops off of some cheap valve covers. I thought I had it very close it was right at zero on the crank with the rotor pointing at #1 on the dizzy. Are both valves closed on the compression stroke only? Is that the only way to tell? Thanks!

 

[Don C]

First you'll need to find the compression stroke on the number one cylinder. Number one on Ford engines is the front cylinder on the right side of the block (as seen from the inside of the car). Everything on cars that has a right or left associated with it is as if you're sitting in the driver's seat and looking out of the windshield.

The easiest way to find the compression stroke is to remove all of the spark plugs so it is easier to turn over by hand. Make sure you keep track of which cylinder each spark plug cable runs to. You'll need to put a ratchet wrench on the crank harmonic balancer bolt to turn it by hand. Turn it, in the same direction you would to tighten the bolt, with your thumb over the number one cylinder spark plug hole until you feel the compression pressure pushing your finger off the hole. Now turn the crankshaft until the timing pointer points to 10° BTDC (before top dead center). Trace the number one spark plug cable to the distributor and see which terminal it is connected to. Most distributor caps have a 1 at the base of the terminal tower, but I have seen some that don't.

Make a mark on the distributor body directly below the number one terminal. Remove the distributor cap. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and rotate the distributor until the mark (for number 1 terminal) is under the rotor and the points just begin to open, when turning the distributor body clockwise. When the engine is running the distributor rotor turns counterclockwise.

Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt and replace the spark plugs and cables.

After you get it running you'll need to time it with a timing light.

 

[73pony]

Both valves closed on the compression stroke. The exhaust valve is open on the exhaust stroke. I would recommend a breaker bar on the crank instead of the starter method. Much more accurate. The other way to tell is putting your thumb tightly over the spark plug hole while turning. You will feel it build pressure on the compression stroke.

Another possibility would be to double check your plug wires are in correct firing order. Remember there were 2 different firing orders for the 302. Earlier was 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 and later was 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Make sure you are using the correct firing order for the cam that your engine builder installed.

 

[NOT A T5]

First you'll need to find the compression stroke on the number one cylinder. Number one on Ford engines is the front cylinder on the right side of the block (as seen from the inside of the car). Everything on cars that has a right or left associated with it is as if you're sitting in the driver's seat and looking out of the windshield.

The easiest way to find the compression stroke is to remove all of the spark plugs so it is easier to turn over by hand. Make sure you keep track of which cylinder each spark plug cable runs to. You'll need to put a ratchet wrench on the crank harmonic balancer bolt to turn it by hand. Turn it, in the same direction you would to tighten the bolt, with your thumb over the number one cylinder spark plug hole until you feel the compression pressure pushing your finger off the hole. Now turn the crankshaft until the timing pointer points to 10° BTDC (before top dead center). Trace the number one spark plug cable to the distributor and see which terminal it is connected to. Most distributor caps have a 1 at the base of the terminal tower, but I have seen some that don't.

Make a mark on the distributor body directly below the number one terminal. Remove the distributor cap. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and rotate the distributor until the mark (for number 1 terminal) is under the rotor and the points just begin to open, when turning the distributor body clockwise. When the engine is running the distributor rotor turns counterclockwise.

Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt and replace the spark plugs and cables.

After you get it running you'll need to time it with a timing light.

Don, I will do that this coming weekend, hopefully I can get some guys over to my place. The last time they were here the distributor was marked and crankshaft pulley was on 0 degree mark. Problem with turning it by hand is I have fan and radiator in the way, there's very little room. Thanks again for your input. 

Terry

 

[NOT A T5]

Both valves closed on the compression stroke. The exhaust valve is open on the exhaust stroke. I would recommend a breaker bar on the crank instead of the starter method. Much more accurate. The other way to tell is putting your thumb tightly over the spark plug hole while turning. You will feel it build pressure on the compression stroke.

Another possibility would be to double check your plug wires are in correct firing order. Remember there were 2 different firing orders for the 302. Earlier was 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 and later was 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Make sure you are using the correct firing order for the cam that your engine builder installed.

Firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Spark plug cables are numbered and are connected to the corresponding spark plugs/cylinders.

How do you feel it building pressure and turn the engine at the same time?

Also, when I had #1 plug out my kid turned the key and gasoline mist was coming out the hole.

Thanks for all the help, I'll have to wait for next weekend to have a few friends (car guys) come over.

 

[Don C]

It'll also blow mist out on the exhaust stroke, path of least resistance, but won't have any pressure.

Thumb of the left hand in the spark plug hole, crank it with the right. If you can see the timing marks clearly you don't have to plug the spark plug hole until you see the marks moving towards the timing pointer.

 

[73pony]

It'll also blow mist out on the exhaust stroke, path of least resistance, but won't have any pressure.

Thumb of the left hand in the spark plug hole, crank it with the right. If you can see the timing marks clearly you don't have to plug the spark plug hole until you see the marks moving towards the timing pointer.

+1. Also have you verified that firing order with your engine builder or the cam card? Firing order is based on the cam and there are two different ones for 302’s. The cams are interchangeable between the older and newer 302 blocks so be 100% sure.

 

[NOT A T5]

Thanks guys for all your technical support! I will have to wait until at least Sunday which is my Saturday. I cranked it a few times I hope I haven't hurt too much without it firing! I'll keep you posted.

 

[NOT A T5]

My buddies were all busy and didn't have time to come by to help me start my motor last weekend. So I asked my son for help...we got cyl#1 at TDC on compression stroke, both valves closed and rotor pointing at #1 mark on Dizzy. We got air,fuel,spark and full battery. I used to have 6 Volts at the coil positive, now I've got 12 Volts. And not only that, there's 12 Volts on the negative side of the coil someone told me this is normal since as soon as the engine turns that goes to ground?! So we cranked it over a few good times and still nothing, not even backfiring! I GIVE UP! For now that is, concentrating on other things with the car.

 

[Fabrice]

How goes the cranking? I mean, the engine turns but does it turns relatively fast and easy?

Also if you test with a multimeter, remove all wires from coil. set to 20k-ohm, place the red wire of the meter to the plus pole of the coil, and the black wire

to center (where the plug wire to dist is). You should get more than 11. ideally 13 something. If you are bellow, your coil secondary is having a resistance, and even at right timing, spark will be too weak to ignite anything.

Another test, after you cranked, if you remove any plug, is there any smel of fuel on it, even wet?

 

[NOT A T5]

How goes the cranking? I mean, the engine turns but does it turns relatively fast and easy?

Also if you test with a multimeter, remove all wires from coil. set to 20k-ohm, place the red wire of the meter to the plus pole of the coil, and the black wire

to center (where the plug wire to dist is). You should get more than 11. ideally 13 something. If you are bellow, your coil secondary is having a resistance, and even at right timing, spark will be too weak to ignite anything.

Another test, after you cranked, if you remove any plug, is there any smel of fuel on it, even wet?

I will do the coil test when I get home tonight. I took all the plugs out yesterday they were slightly wet and yes, I have fuel smell as soon as I walk into the garage! Thanks Fabrice!

 

[Fabrice]

If there are wet, which is good after your cranked a few time, before try again, make sure they are dry. I got issues with my EFI at first install, I did test the unit without cranking first to test the electrics not knowing it was priming. The throttle blades were also too closed (too rich) and after I did follow how to do a proper TPS setup/reset, even done by the book: still nothing. Lost hours retesting all ignition. Turns out the plugs were still wet from first attempts and simply needed be dried first. Fired right up after that.

 

[Don C]

Make sure that little bare ground wire is in place and connected in the distributor, from one of the screws on the points to the distributor base. If not, the points won't provide a ground to the coil to charge the primary side of the coil. When the points are closed you should get 6 to 8 volts on the coil positive terminal and 12+ when the points are open.