Starting issues.....1972 Mustang

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Joseph Knopf

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2023
Messages
57
Reaction score
11
Location
Middletown.Delaware
My Car
1972 Ford Mustang Hardtop with factory 62K miles 302 new Holley 600 Street Warrior carb,Edelbrock Performer intake,stock C-4 trans,with 279 rear.
Hello Classic auto owners,I have a 1972 Mustang that was running/driving two short weeks ago.....I drove the car home from an auto repair shop here in Middletown that said the car has multiple electrical issues and they were not "Comfortable" working on the car. I took the car in to have the wiper motor looked at to get working along with the turn signals....The radio and heater would be great woorking also but wanted to focus on passing inspection......anyways,picked up the car with a jump pack,car started fine,filled up the fuel tank with premium fuel and drove the 9 miles home....shut the car off and it would not start back up....And another thing how we get rid off/stop the annoying pop ups ads on this website.....worse than watching youtube on my tv @ home and dealing all the commercials.-

Getting back to the 1972 Mustang,i replaced the starter which was probably original from 1972,,,,replaced the solenoid,went through a few.....i put too much tourqe on one of the nuts and broke/cracked the plastic body....the sending solenoid on the car when i got it home was leaking,,,,new starter cable,battery is about a year old,fully charged,battery cables have been replaced the past year...I'm thinkng there is a grounding problem since i have 12 volts from the battery to the solenoid and actually down to the starter cable with my multimeter.-The wiring in/on the vehicle is 51 years old with the exception of the new turn signal switch and ignition switch replaced this year....Any suggestions or help with electrical trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated. I had planned on replacing the complete wiring harness while intending on restoring the vehicle in the next year or so.-Thanks.-Joe K.-
 
Quick video i took this morning after replacing the starter solenoid.-
 

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Is the ground wire from the battery connect directly to the block? It should have two connections from the cable, block a chassis. Also, if you’re not sure, I would have the battery load tested at a local auto parts store; it’s free and would help check off one thing from the list of likely culprits. Just having 12v at the battery isn’t a leading indicator of the battery’s health.
 
I'm with Steve here, double check all your battery cables and connections. I would put the battery on charge overnight and try to start it in the morning. If it's still the same problem, have it tested at the parts store.
 
Is the ground wire from the battery connect directly to the block? It should have two connections from the cable, block a chassis. Also, if you’re not sure, I would have the battery load tested at a local auto parts store; it’s free and would help check off one thing from the list of likely culprits. Just having 12v at the battery isn’t a leading indicator of the battery’s health.
Yes,all the cables/connections are new/replaced and secure. I had the battery and alternator tested about 2 months ago @ the local AutoZone and both tested out good.-I have the battery on a float charger every day and check the voltage with a multimeter every day or so as well.-Always at least 12 volts and high as 13-14 volts some readings. I can take the battery out again and have it checked again @ the Autozone where i purchased it this past February...The 12 month warranty on the battery is expiring in a few months so it may be time for a new new battery as no part seems to last too long these days.-I did some checking on around and it sounds like the Voltage Regulator might be in need of replacement.....So i ordered a new one and will replace that as well.-A bad VR can drain your battery and cause your electrical components to act strange like your headlights getting brighter when reving the engine,and other strange behavior from your vehicles gauges,and power drains,hard starting,etc...For under $20.00 it worth it to know all the electrical parts have been replaced on a 52 year old vehicle.-Enjoy the games,holidays and be safe out there.-J.K.
 
I'm with Steve here, double check all your battery cables and connections. I would put the battery on charge overnight and try to start it in the morning. If it's still the same problem, have it tested at the parts store.
Yes,all the cables/connections are new/replaced and secure. I had the battery and alternator tested about 2 months ago @ the local AutoZone and both tested out good.-I have the battery on a float charger every day and check the voltage with a multimeter every day or so as well.-Always at least 12 volts and high as 13-14 volts some readings. I can take the battery out again and have it checked again @ the Autozone where i purchased it this past February...The 12 month warranty on the battery is expiring in a few months so it may be time for a new new battery as no part seems to last too long these days.-I did some checking on around and it sounds like the Voltage Regulator might be in need of replacement.....So i ordered a new one and will replace that as well.-A bad VR can drain your battery and cause your electrical components to act strange like your headlights getting brighter when reving the engine,and other strange behavior from your vehicles gauges,and power drains,hard starting,etc...For under $20.00 it worth it to know all the electrical parts have been replaced on a 52 year old vehicle.-Enjoy the games,holidays and be safe out there.-J.K.
 
Then if you’re sure the battery, cables, etc ar3 good, I’d say you got a bad starter. Lots of us have run into that recently, new part that turns out to be defective. It’s one of the frustrating parts of the hobby. I’d remove it and have it checked.
 
Yes,all the cables/connections are new/replaced and secure. I had the battery and alternator tested about 2 months ago @ the local AutoZone and both tested out good.-I have the battery on a float charger every day and check the voltage with a multimeter every day or so as well.-Always at least 12 volts and high as 13-14 volts some readings. I can take the battery out again and have it checked again @ the Autozone where i purchased it this past February...The 12 month warranty on the battery is expiring in a few months so it may be time for a new new battery as no part seems to last too long these days.-I did some checking on around and it sounds like the Voltage Regulator might be in need of replacement.....So i ordered a new one and will replace that as well.-A bad VR can drain your battery and cause your electrical components to act strange like your headlights getting brighter when reving the engine,and other strange behavior from your vehicles gauges,and power drains,hard starting,etc...For under $20.00 it worth it to know all the electrical parts have been replaced on a 52 year old vehicle.-Enjoy the games,holidays and be safe out there.-J.K.

I'll agree that a defective VR can do all that, but since you're not driving the car, it won't have an effect on it starting unless it's draining the battery. Having the battery on continuous charge removes that issue as well. If you're concerned about the VR, then simply unplug it.

Something to keep in mind - new parts are not necessarily good parts - especially chain store parts.

First thing I'd do is have the battery load tested, to verify it's good and fully charged.
 
Then if you’re sure the battery, cables, etc ar3 good, I’d say you got a bad starter. Lots of us have run into that recently, new part that turns out to be defective. It’s one of the frustrating parts of the hobby. I’d remove it and have it checked.
Good call gentlemen,i decided to check the voltage output with my tester while starting the car and my meter displayed only 3 volts-under the starting load.-So, i removed the battery that has about 2 months left on the year warranty through Autozone,drove out to Middletown had the tech check the battery and sure enough the battery was ready for replacement.-Good thing i payed the extra $ for the warranty this past February....saved me $130.00 for another battery.-Got home installed the new battery and the car started right up.--What a relief, and great to have the 72 running again.-Now i can move forward with the new floor pan install/replacement in a few months.-
 

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Now i can work on the floors and body work in 2024.-
 
I'll agree that a defective VR can do all that, but since you're not driving the car, it won't have an effect on it starting unless it's draining the battery. Having the battery on continuous charge removes that issue as well. If you're concerned about the VR, then simply unplug it.

Something to keep in mind - new parts are not necessarily good parts - especially chain store parts.

First thing I'd do is have the battery load tested, to verify it's good and fully charged.
I'll agree that a defective VR can do all that, but since you're not driving the car, it won't have an effect on it starting unless it's draining the battery. Having the battery on continuous charge removes that issue as well. If you're concerned about the VR, then simply unplug it.

Something to keep in mind - new parts are not necessarily good parts - especially chain store parts.

First thing I'd do is have the battery load tested, to verify it's good and fully charged.
Good call gentlemen,i decided to check the voltage output with my tester while starting the car and my meter displayed only 3 volts-under the starting load.-So, i removed the battery that has about 2 months left on the year warranty through Autozone,drove out to Middletown had the tech check the battery and sure enough the battery was ready for replacement.-Good thing i payed the extra $ for the warranty this past February....saved me $130.00 for another battery.-Got home installed the new battery and the car started right up.--What a relief, and great to have the 72 running again.-Now i can move forward with the new floor pan install/replacement in a few months.-
 
Then if you’re sure the battery, cables, etc ar3 good, I’d say you got a bad starter. Lots of us have run into that recently, new part that turns out to be defective. It’s one of the frustrating parts of the hobby. I’d remove it and have it checked.
Good call gentlemen,i decided to check the voltage output with my tester while starting the car and my meter displayed only 3 volts-under the starting load.-So, i removed the battery that has about 2 months left on the year warranty through Autozone,drove out to Middletown had the tech check the battery and sure enough the battery was ready for replacement.-Good thing i payed the extra $ for the warranty this past February....saved me $130.00 for another battery.-Got home installed the new battery and the car started right up.--What a relief, and great to have the 72 running again.-Now i can move forward with the new floor pan install/replacement in a few months.-
 
Good call gentlemen,i decided to check the voltage output with my tester while starting the car and my meter displayed only 3 volts-under the starting load.-So, i removed the battery that has about 2 months left on the year warranty through Autozone,drove out to Middletown had the tech check the battery and sure enough the battery was ready for replacement.-Good thing i payed the extra $ for the warranty this past February....saved me $130.00 for another battery.-Got home installed the new battery and the car started right up.--What a relief, and great to have the 72 running again.-Now i can move forward with the new floor pan install/replacement in a few months.-

Glad you got it sorted out.

Hot tip for the future - Walmart's Everstart MAXX is $140 and has a three year warranty and they now offer an AGM for $10 more. I've found the local chains to be way overpriced on batteries. The MAXX batteries are all I buy now.

https://www.walmart.com/search?q=24f&facet=brand:EverStart
 
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