Spark Plug Wires

[luxstang]

Completely off topic. Kudos on your avatar, Fordication! I think you have a point there.

::beer::

 

[Fordication]

Absolutely! After all, we all have Mustangs to show. I mean if you have seen one, you have seen them all. Now what was I talking about?

 

[Fordication]

So I got the new wires installed and I resealsed the cover on the intake. I found out that the power steering pump nozzle is what sliced the cables because it nicked one of my new cables as well. I fixed that problem. So I got the car running and was able to get it to idle about about 850rpm. However every once in a while there is a sputter as if something is leaking somewhere. I know for a fact that there are no intake leaks, but I also know I have exhaust leaks from the header connection to the exhaust system back. I think that is whats causing the sputter but I am not sure. I do know that I almost passed out today while I adjusted the timing and the carb. So, now that I have it running well enough to get around I am going to focus on the interior of the car and get it done. Thanks for all of the help but the sputter will have to wait.

 

[Justin71]

Been a long time since this thread ended, BUT....

Here is a thought on the sparking to ground in various places. I read just today that if there is high resistance at th connection point (connections are corroded), the wires will have a tendency to spark/arc to ground. It makes sense to me that this could be the case because if the resistance at the wire to plug or wire to dist cap is high, you are getting a lot of voltage that doesn't have a good path into the cylinder. So, it can jump to nearby metal. I actually caught my coil wire doing this recently visually. And when you arc to ground, your engine will run like crap to much of it, and it won't even run.

I suggest you try this, go into each copper connector and clean it with sandpaper or other abrasive (small round file? file with sandpaper?) to clean the copper connectors. Then sand the ends of the park plugs. Basically, clean all the connections as much as possible to remove corrosion. See if that helps.

How did the whole thing come out anyway?

 

[Wolverine]

Taylor wires come with a shiny silicone coating on them. Kind of annoying but that's what they are. They should be spiral core wound wires. I've had my set on the Mach for 10 years or so now with no issues. Like others have said, you probably got a bad set or something.

I would guess the silicone coating is used for lubrication to make the TIGHT boots slide easily onto the insulation. In the old days, house wiring was lubricated/coated with lead to allow them to slide easy through 2x4 holes, electrical boxes and conduit.

And, that is about all I am going to say about that.

So I got the car running and was able to get it to idle about about 850rpm. However every once in a while there is a sputter as if something is leaking somewhere.

I don't think you should put too much thought into an occasional sputter. If you have a high compression engine and a non-high energy ignition with a carb that is a little to big, you can probably expect a miss every now and then at idle.

If you car is running consistent otherwise, meaning you hold the accelerator steady, and your car drives steady, you are in good shape.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

We added onto my parent's house back in the early 70's. Growing up in the south I learned some interesting things, like boiled okra was the conduit lube of choice for electricians in Memphis at one point in time. No joke!

Hope you got it squared away.