Stalling cuts out instantly.

[SteveO_71]

Bringing up an oldish thread. I believe I'm dealing with the same issue. Mallory Unilite D-70-9 , and I believe a Mallory distrib. Ignition will cut out, sometimes accompanied by a backfire. Engine always starts back up afterwards. I'm planning to replace the Unilite module, cap, rotor and get a new coil.

You may want to switch from the Unilite to Pertronix 2.

Pertronix 2 is an improved Pertronix 1 but with higher voltage output. However, it can burn out if ignition is left on.
Pertronix 3 fixed the burning out issue but was unreliable due to changing timing.

From what I've read anyway.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Bringing up an oldish thread. I believe I'm dealing with the same issue. Mallory Unilite D-70-9 , and I believe a Mallory distrib. Ignition will cut out, sometimes accompanied by a backfire. Engine always starts back up afterwards. I'm planning to replace the Unilite module, cap, rotor and get a new coil.

The Mallory Unilte module is junk, total junk, and when I say total junk, I mean total junk. I had a speed shop in the mid to late 80's and into the mid-90's when I sold it. The one part that I REFUSED to sell to anyone was a Mallory Unilte distributor. Every single one I sold always came back with an inoperable module, Mallory would refuse to warranty them, and they said that the resistance was not installed on them. I can assure you that every customer I ever sold one to at the beginning was told that they had to install the resistance, and there is no way that no one ever did after you told them that if they did not install it they would burn the module. The only Mallory part that I carried in stock was the replacement Unilte module. I would sell one at least every week. The worst part was that back then a complete distributor was somewhere around $125, and the module was $80. It was almost better to buy a new distributor than to buy the module. Mallory made a killing selling those modules. If I had a Unilte distributor I would see if someone sold a conversion to a magnetic pickup, or I would take it off and get something else.

 

[timachone]

I never had any issues with the Pertronix 1!

I have installed several on original distributors on my 73 4V, on my father's 73 4V and on a 70 F250 with 360. Then my friend Oli installed several on his 69 Mustangs, Corvette etc. Never had a problem. They are very reliable, not as the 2 or 3 Versions, they are prone to go bad.
The only thing you have to look after is to not let the ignition on for a while. I mean half an hour is not a problem but don't do it over night. But I disconnect the battery anyway...
It even ran good connected to the original harness, with tach and a standard ignition coil. But as a standard for me I use the Pertronix coil, which looks like an OEM and the Relais to give it permanent 12V. So all good for years! Never heard that for the other versions, especially No. 3. So if Pertronix, I recommend No. 1. Simple, reliable, relatively cheap and easy install.

Just my 50 cents...

 

[Idaho Chris]

A second vote for Pertronix 1 with matching coil. I run this setup in four different cars. No problems.

Oh, and as for the tach issue- no special wiring necessary for the stock tach if you run the Pertronix 1. It is quite literally plug and play.

 

[SteveO_71]

From Pertronix site below. The 2 is an improvement on 1. I've heard 3 is least reliable. 1 or 2 should work with stock tach and pink wire setup. You just need a switched +12v for the module and the Flamethrower 1.5 ohm coil.

The original Ignitor Module is ideal for restorations while the Ignitor II provides increased starting voltage with adaptive dwell control. The Ignitor III features a digital rev limiter and five times the spark energy of a typical points system!

 

[Stanglover]

Frankly, I am learning to NOT trust the electronic ignition modules. I chased a gremlin on a pertonix 3 for over a year, switched back to new points and the car is reliable and runs good. Not sure the extra heat to the spark is wort the headache.

I even remember back in the early 90's working for a guy that bought and sold Mustangs. He got some nice cars really cheap due to failed Duraspark Module. And Duraspart seems to be the most reliable one out there. I never wanted the Pertronix 1 or 2 because I heard you needed special wiring to make the tach work.

Anyway, good luck with the car!.

kcmash

I know it's an old broken record, but I'll almost guarantee your problem with a Pertronix III was the same as mine. Nothing to do with the electronics, but the crappy construction with the plastic "bearing" between the plates on the Ford version. Pertronix replaced mine with a P II and coil. I did however buy a P II just before I got the replacement and after just over 3 years of it sitting on a shelf, it was found to be defective and yes, just out of warranty.
As for installing to use with a factory tach, I believe it only needs to be run through a relay and not through the resistor wire that should be by-passed anyway. I'm not 100% sure on the relay, but I think that is what will work. Someone like Midlife could confirm.

 

[c9zx]

The Pertronics I is fine for a cruiser unless you plan to rev it beyond about 5600 RPM. The timing becomes very unstable and moves plus and minus 10-12 degrees. I have seen this myself, twice, with engines on the dyno. I think their coils and wires are fine. I use a magnetic pick up distributor with an aftermarket amplifier. Chuck