Starting Problems

[icejawa]

About 24 oz of fuel and previous owner put no gaskets on manifold...

 

[72HCODE]

distributor 180 degrees out?

Neutral safety switch issue?

 

[73pony]

About 24 oz of fuel and previous owner put no gaskets on manifold...

No gaskets on Manifold????? Between manifold and heads???

I would find that VERY hard to believe. You would have never run well if at all. Would have been crazy vacuum leaks.

 

[icejawa]

They were melted in pieces and dry just put new ones in and pan car still want start might give up ha 6 hrs no progress

 

[icejawa]

Is my msd ignition coil supposed to still be cold after a bunch of cranks

 

[Don C]

Did you rebuild the carburetor, or just put it back on?

Did you have gaskets, or not, between the intake manifold and heads? Is that what was melted and in pieces? Did you have a valley pan metal gasket?

What did you use for new gaskets?

Just cranking it won't cause the coil to warm up. Even when running they don't get that warm.

Have you checked the spark with something besides paper clips? Like these inexpensive testers from Harbor Freight?

https://www.harborfreight.com/90-inline-ignition-spark-checker-69023.html

Or measured the voltage you are getting to the coil, or measured the resistance of the primary and secondary sides of the coil?

 

[icejawa]

Thanks for help again,

Yes checked spark with tool also put wires 3/4 in away from block and had friend crank it to get blue spark. Voltmeter reads 11.9v at coil

Would the clicking/knock noise coming from the engine after attempting a crank be just fuel popping on plugs or could it be a bigger problem? I pulled all plugs and wiped them off and let them air out. I might honestly just have to see a mechanic. I checked everything from carb, rotor, points, plugs, compression. I rebuilt carb and readjusted fuel floats. Replaced intake manifold gaskets and valley pan...I am out of ideas.

 

[Don C]

I wouldn't worry about the clicking/popping until you get the engine started. Your cylinders are likely still saturated with fuel. Your crankcase is full of fuel vapors. As soon as you start to crank the engine you are already in a flooded condition. Change the oil to get rid of the fuel saturated oil, which will remove the source of fuel vapors from the crankcase, via the PCV system. Pull the plugs and crank the engine to get as much raw fuel and fuel vapors out of the cylinders as possible. Disconnect the 12 volt supply to the coil when you do this, or you could ignite the fuel coming out of the cylinders.

Make sure your carburetor isn't still flooding the engine. Take the carburetor off again to see if you still have the puddle of fuel in the intake manifold. After it sets overnight take the top off the carburetor to see if it is still full of fuel, or if it has leaked out into the manifold.

Make sure, when you are checking the timing that your timing light is connected to #1 spark plug cable. Make sure the rotor is pointed to #1 terminal on the cap when #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke.

 

[jbojo]

Here is how I think I would try to go at this;

-  Remove all the spark plugs.

- remove carb and drain the fuel bowls and reinstall.  Do not hook up fuel line,

- run fuel line to a container to catch the fuel when you crank the motor.

- crank the motor to try to remove any accumulated fuel in the cylinders and manifold.

- while cranking the motor ground one spark plug and see if you get a spark

- if a compressor is available blow out the cylinders through the spark plug holes and also the intake manifold,

- reinstall the plugs if you had spark, if not trouble shoot that issue first.

- after the spark plugs are installed spray some quick start down the carb throat, not too much though and try to start the motor.

- if it fires the issue is with the carb.

- if it doesn't and you had spark earlier the timing may be off.

 

[icejawa]

Ah crap so I took carb off again as someone suggested and once again there is a puddle of gas in a barrel of the intake manifold. That means my carb is not working properly. I readjusted floats to 7/16s height upside down, 1 in gap when right side up. The fuel line is pumping so.much gas into the carb. Does this mean my electric choke is failing? Should I just buy a new carb?

 

[icejawa]

Ah crap so I took carb off again as someone suggested and once again there is a puddle of gas in a barrel of the intake manifold. That means my carb is not working properly. I readjusted floats to 7/16s height upside down, 1 in gap when right side up. The fuel line is pumping so.much gas into the carb. Does this mean my electric choke is failing? Should I just buy a new carb?

 

[Don C]

This means one or more of a few things:

The float isn't floating, either it is brass, has a leak and is full of fuel, or it is plastic and saturated.

The float needle isn't seating due to debris or bad needle.

The float needle seat is bad, deformed or loose.

The fuel pump is putting out too much pressure.

Do you have a good fuel filter? The next time you have the carburetor off flush the fuel line between the filter and carburetor.

 

[icejawa]

The needles sure are slightly bent ill replace them they slide out every time I place the airhorn. I have brass floats and they could be flooding, I know the fuel bowls sure are. As for the inline fuel filter it is full to the top with gas at all times, I am not sure what is causing that to happen. The bolt that connects the fuel line to the carb has a hole in it for gas to exit, should I be matching it to line up with the hole in the hose?

 

[Don C]

I'm talking about the needle valves that the floats move up and down to control the fuel flow into the carburetor. The needle and seat assembly is shown as number 27 in the carburetor exploded view in the Edelbrock rebuild manual and owner's manual.

In case you don't have it the rebuild manual is available at:

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/install/1000/1477.pdf

 

[icejawa]

Yes they keep sliding out but I fixed it by adjusting the floats, so to stop gas flow should they hang out or be pushed in

 

[Don C]

What you're talking about are the metering rods. They do not stop the fuel from entering the carburetor. The float needles will not bend. Download the rebuild manual.

 

[icejawa]

The needles with red tips under the float arms slip out

 

[Don C]

There should be a tab on the end of the float arm that is bent to adjust how far the float can drop down, to prevent that from happening.