The Mach-A-Reina build thread

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Thanks for the replies. Yeah, now that I've seen the extent of the rust on all my steel lines, I really regret not just buying a nice flanger and doing them all myself as opposed to buying pre-bent lines. Would have paid off by now, and I could make adjustments like this. As it is, I'm going to just keep it stock I reckon. If I ever pull the motor and media blast everything, maybe I'll rethink it then. God know it needs it. Lots of nasty metal in the engine bay. I'm splattering a little paint on sections that look bad as a preventative measure just to stop further deterioration.

Here is another question for yall, what the heck is this bracket coming off my steering column? It doesn't seem to attache to anything and I cant figure it out from the Ford shop manual:IMG_6953.jpg
 
Hi, I'm just catching up on this thread.
Welcome from SW Ontario Canada and another 71 Mach 1 owner.
I bought my car in LA and totally rust free. I got very lucky, but still had a ton of stuff to fix or upgrade over the years, 16 now.
There is all the wisdom and knowledge you could ever want on here, so don't be afraid to ask away. There is no such thing as a dumb question, (but you may get a few dumb answers!! )
 
Thanks for the replies. Yeah, now that I've seen the extent of the rust on all my steel lines, I really regret not just buying a nice flanger and doing them all myself as opposed to buying pre-bent lines. Would have paid off by now, and I could make adjustments like this. As it is, I'm going to just keep it stock I reckon. If I ever pull the motor and media blast everything, maybe I'll rethink it then. God know it needs it. Lots of nasty metal in the engine bay. I'm splattering a little paint on sections that look bad as a preventative measure just to stop further deterioration.

Here is another question for yall, what the heck is this bracket coming off my steering column? It doesn't seem to attache to anything and I cant figure it out from the Ford shop manual:View attachment 95059
Here is a pic from my car when I stripped it for an engine rebuild.
You can see the trans rod on the manual trans. You can also see the weird rubber hose in question, red arrow. Green arrow ?, blue arrow is the rod in question.
 

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Ah got it. I figure I don't NEED that piece. Too many darn things coming out of that transmission as it is. I'm dreading how the heck im going to route the rear brake and vent lines as it is!
May be easier just to drop the driveshaft to access the tunnel clips. Fuel line goes along the outer rocker, so that's easy..... er!
 
Thanks for the tips. Waiting for those parts to arrive today. Sounds like I may be dropping the driveshaft in the near future haha. Oh well, guess its another thing to learn how to do.

Spent the last few days cleaning and repainting things in the engine bay and in the wheel well. Nothing crazy just a little preventative cleanup and prettying up. IMG_6960.JPG

Reckoned it was easier to do while all the bits and bobs were out of my way. Unfortunatly in my haste I twisted off this stupid hose coming off the power steering line. That was a 60$ mistake. Yes...now I see there are two nuts. I couldn't see it because it was behind the PS filler tube and I was rushing like a fool.
View attachment IMG_6961.JPG
 
As I move into the next phase of this project, I have two questions I wanted to pose to the hive mind:

1) Which reservoir on the brake master cylinder is for the front brake and which is the rear?

2) My harmonic balancer is shot. I'm afraid to drive with it so out of wack. I know opinions vary, but does anyone have a recommendation for replacement? Rattler? Remco? ATI? And which one specifically. ATI and Remco both have a few that summit says will fit.

Thanks in advance. IDK how people worked on cars before these forums.
 
The fuel line is to accommodate the 6 cyl and V8 engines. The fuel pump on the 250-6 was about in the middle of the shock tower.

If you're just looking to protect the sheetmetal and not taking the entire front end apart, I'd skip the POR15 and just use a semi gloss black rattle can paint. If you decide to get in deep at a later date, that POR is going to haunt you as it is a mother to remove. TBH, what you're showing looks really good to my eye, since I'm in the Northeast and our cars never look like that. Grease in the pocket under the upper arm is normal, that means the car was lubed at least a couple times in it's life. The pocket should be filled level with seam sealer to promote drainage, but it wasn't always done correctly.

For a balancer, Romac 0203 is a really nice unit that's not huge money. I have one on my 351C.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hivM48MWcxUEcuvaFx82WlI5JxeVn8DwY8qVgH1TW0Hz1

On the master the rear (large) reservoir is for the front and vice versa.
 
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The fuel line is to accommodate the 6 cyl and V8 engines. The fuel pump on the 250-6 was about in the middle of the shock tower.

If you're just looking to protect the sheetmetal and not taking the entire front end apart, I'd skip the POR15 and just use a semi gloss black rattle can paint. If you decide to get in deep at a later date, that POR is going to haunt you as it is a mother to remove. TBH, what you're showing looks really good to my eye, since I'm in the Northeast and our cars never look like that. Grease in the pocket under the upper arm is normal, that means the car was lubed at least a couple times in it's life. The pocket should be filled level with seam sealer to promote drainage, but it wasn't always done correctly.

For a balancer, Romac 0203 is a really nice unit that's not huge money. I have one on my 351C.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hivM48MWcxUEcuvaFx82WlI5JxeVn8DwY8qVgH1TW0Hz1

On the master the rear (large) reservoir is for the front and vice versa.
Thanks Hemikiller. I am ordering up the Romac. That's the last part that was really giving me pause to really drive the darn car. Are there any special tools I need to get to the damper? I have a puller, but wasn't sure if I needed anything else. Also, I have a Classic Auto Air AC setup I am fixin to put in this winter (So I can enjoy the car in the texas heat). I'm not sure if the kit comes with a 3 belt pulley, but I assume that is something I will need to install. Do you think this would be a good time to do that too?
 
FINALLY got some plumbing back in the car. This is just a small part of what I need to get done this week but dang it feels good to be putting parts back on instead of taking them off. There is something endlessly satisfying about stainless steel lines. One Q I have though: are there supposed to be brackets on the outward side of the calipers? I didn't see any on the existing brakes, but my replacement calipers did come with 4 brackets.


View attachment IMG_6962.JPG
 
The stainless lines look awesome on your car! It makes me wish that I didn't cheap out and get the steel ones, haha.

As far as the caliper hardware, there are supposed to be some brake pad anti-rattle retainer pins and clips on the outer pads, the pins come through the pads and caliper and are retained by the clips on the outside of the caliper, if that is what you are referring to. There are also the inner pad anti-rattle clips and the inner shield that I don't see in you picture. I don't have a great pic of the inner side of my car's caliper that would show the shield better, but you can see the anti-rattle clips in the pics below. I bought a caliper hardware kit from NPD for like $50 that included all of these parts.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/hardware-kit-caliper/148135?backurl=search/products?search_terms=front%2Bbrake%2Bcaliper&top_parent=200001&year=1971&year=1971

I included a pic of the kit from their website that shows the shield better, because I am not sure I got the link right.
 

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