This may be an old question

[Steve McMahan]

I am transplanting a 302 from a 1987 Thunderbird into my 73. So, I know I’ve got to change the oil pan and pickup, so I say, I should also change the oil pump and shaft because there is 75k miles on the engine, and any bearing wear would be helped by a higher than stock oil pump. So, all is well, as I am setting up my order on Rock Auto. So, being extra smart, I decide to see if I can get all of the stuff I need on Amazon. First price I check is the oil pan gasket; one of those nice one-piece types, and as I’m entering the Fel-Pro part number, Amazon tells me this will not fit the 1987 Thunderbird. The 73 one piece is OS13260T and the 87 is OS34508R.

I mean, what? Isn’t a 302 a 302? The oil pan gasket for that rear sump configuration is different and I’m wondering or maybe asking, beside the front sump oil pan, which will fit on the 87 302, should I be ordering 302 parts using the Thunderbird data or does it matter? Does someone have a trusted parts list for this conversion?

Thanks, Steve

 

[Don C]

You can read the Felpro descriptions

Fel-Pro OS13260T Oil Pan Gasket Rubber 260/ 289/ 302 (cjponyparts.com)

Fel-Pro OS34508R Mustang Oil Pan Gasket Rubber 5.0L 1986-1995 (cjponyparts.com)

 

[Hemikiller]

The gasket has to match the oil pan rail. The early style pans have a dimpled rail that takes the OS13260T gasket. The 86-up rear sump pan for the Fox chassis cars (T-bird, Mustang etc) has a flat pan rail with stamped reinforcements that uses the OS34508R gasket, which is FelPro's version of the factory Ford one piece gasket. 

If you mix the wrong gasket on the wrong pan, it will leak. 

FWIW, don't fall into the "HV pump is better" trap. If the engine has good oil pressure now, it'll have good oil pressure with a new standard volume pump. Get a standard Melling pump, whatever front sump pan and pickup you prefer, and an ARP oil pump driveshaft. 

 

[Steve McMahan]

So if I get a front sump pan, I need to get the early style gasket. Ok, that makes sense. Unfortunately, I don’t have any way of checking the oil pressure and at a 10 to 15% increase, it’s not a significant push on the existing system. To me, it’s an inexpensive addition to help fend off an unknown issue; if it’s in the ok zone, it won’t hurt; if it’s in the low end, it will help.

The ARP is a good catch. Thanks, Steve.

 

[Lazarus]

+1 on the warning about the high volume pumps. In the past, I assumed more is better on oil pressure and had problems. I get trying to head off potential issues but just know it’s not all upside. Too much pressure can hurt also; it can lead to lots of leaks, screw up the filter, or starve parts of the engine. 
 

You clearly know what you are doing, so take my advice with a grain of salt... but I did regret a high volume pump in an otherwise amazing build. 

 

[Steve McMahan]

My plans are to get it running (It’s a SFI engine), play with it, and then after that, tear into it for a 2 year restoration. That will likely mean pulling engine, etc and do a mass air, all of the fun stuff, etc. That will give me an opportunity to reassess the decision. Most of my engine building experience comes from the late 1970’s. I had my own shop on my Dad’s farm in a small town in TX where I built streetable engines and built small block pintos and Vegas. It was how I put myself through college. Most if not all of those sbf and sbc  got “higher flow” pumps from stock. Never had a problem with any of those cars. I’m not as familiar with the newer roller block sbfs but I see that Ford has a crate motor with a “higher that stock” oil pump.

Since I have to change the oil pan, maybe I’ll check the bottom end (do people still use plastigage?). I’ll pull the pump and at least check the clearances.