Underbody

Terry

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I am rebuilding my 72 mustang and have Brushed, sanded, cleaned, etc the bottom of the car, coated in epoxy etch then epoxy primer now ready for something else to finish I was thinking epoxy satin black same as I’m considering for trunk and engine bay.

also found a heap of holes drill and punched into LH door under old filler, I am planning to weld up holes epoxy etch and refill 

any thoughts or opinions/recommendations/tips welcome

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Tnfastbk

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Depends on what your end game is for the car. I seem sealed and bed lined the bottom of my car. It has held up very well for ten + years old.  I drive my car and hate undercoating. My first thought around my area when I see a car with heavy undercoating is, I wonder what are they trying to hide. The worst case scenario is I get caught in the rain. So IMO undercoating was not needed. My buddy has a car that is painted base clear underneath. Looks fantastic but he has to keep it wiped down and waxed. More work than I'm into.  My wife's car is chassis black underneath and gloss black engine bay. If I was to do it over I will paint my engine bay body color. I know its not correct but I like the look. Basically its up to you on how you want it to look and intended look.

 

Fabrice

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Oh wow!!! Looks so clean and nicely done!

For the door, as these were done to pull a deep dent and all looking lows, welding them will likely be tough to prevent warping the panel even more. You will be forced to use a respectable amount of bondo as they did.
I'd prolly change the section over the entire length as there is only one curve going up/down and is mainly straight over the entire length, but if you are on the right side of the ocean, may be trying to locate another door could be a better alternative and less work ??

 

Terry

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Thanks for the advice guys,

as I’m painting my car the original colour light pewter I may consider this for the engine bay but not underneath I r

think I will go with the Satin of flat black .

and my door does look a bit sad, Fabrice your probably right a new door or door skin would be best.

i might have a go at the welding though and working it straight just for the practice.

 

Terry

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I just want to ask about Seam sealer I am using Sikaflex 221 under the car some areas were seam sealed really well and other areas not at all ?

made it difficult to understand after I stripped it all off including most of the old paint, I noticed there were chassis components that were plated like a zinc type product these items were not seam sealed from the factory.

i just copied what was there before, should I have done that or seam sealed everything in sight ?

i still have time to seam seal more before I paint.

 
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If you go over all the seams with 3-M seam sealer is a big bonus. The factory did not do that great a job. Once the seams are sealed you do not need bed liner or undercoat just paint for it to last forever. 3-M does have rolls of press on sealer like for around the doors and such. Is not original but cleaner to install. Inside the door and such I think brushing on good primer is way better than spray. Let it run into the cracks and wipe off on the outside. 

 

Tnfastbk

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If you go over all the seams with 3-M seam sealer is a big bonus. The factory did not do that great a job. Once the seams are sealed you do not need bed liner or undercoat just paint for it to last forever. 3-M does have rolls of press on sealer like for around the doors and such. Is not original but cleaner to install. Inside the door and such I think brushing on good primer is way better than spray. Let it run into the cracks and wipe off on the outside. 
I don't think the question was if it was needed or not or if it was original or not. He asked what people have done with theirs. I agree anything will last forever if it just sits in a garage.

 

73429mach

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1972 Mustang Mach 1 under construction
I painted the underside, wheel wells and engine compartment body color, it looks good but it’s a pain to keep clean. Ryan

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Terry

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Looks great on both cars, great job. Not sure which way I will go yet body colour or satin black,

black will be a lot easier less prep, no clear coat, minimal maintenance, body colour does look great though mine would be light Pewter.

thanks for the photos

 

Stanglover

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Terry, I'm just looking at this post for the first time, so I'm a bit late to the party.

On my Light Pewter Mach 1, I chose to use Eastwood 2K  under hood black epoxy. It has a texture to it, but I have found it stands up very well and not too hard to clean either. Downside, it's expensive and you'll need 2 cans at least for the engine bay. I have no idea if Eastwood paints are available in Oz, but I like their products. For the underside, a former Mustang restorer I know, always used "Lizard Skin". Again, no idea if you can get that there.

In reality, the underside was painted "Slop Grey", which could be any shade of grey to black which is what you get when  all extra paint was mixed together. Mine is untouched from the fire wall back, which is what I chose to do, so it's not possible to see what color it actually is, but when I changed the fuel tank, the underside of the trunk floor is a bluey-grey shade. So your choice.

As for Light Pewter, Code V for 71 and 5A for 72, PPG # 2287 the formula was not available in Canada, so mine was "computer camera" matched from un-faded original paint. It's a tricky paint to get right and hard to match IF you ever need to touch up a scratch.. ask me how I know!  Perhaps you're luckier in Australia and "regulations" won't screw you up.

These are just my thoughts on the subject.

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