Valve cover beautification.

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Fredensborg

I like music, languages, weaponry, and freedom.
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
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Location
Zimmerman, MN 55398
My Car
1973 Mach 1
1980 Bronco
A couple modern Fords
I searched the forum but couldn’t find much on this…how should one go about restoring original valve covers? I took mine off years ago and put in some Ford Racing ones because at the time I thought the originals were ugly, now I’m getting older and starting to appreciate originality and the beauty of old things.

I’d like to make mine look like new, but I don’t want to ruin them by doing something stupid. I’m sure someone on here must have restored a set and can point me in the right direction.
 

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There really should be any real trick to doing this, except making sure that the rails are flat, which you can do with a hammer and some flat wood, or a small dolly. The best way to do it would be to sandblast them and then primer them and paint them, but if you have not access to a sandblaster you can always just sand them down real good, and then primer and paint. Make sure to degrease them real well before you start.
 
I'd do a thorough degreasing, followed by paint stripper, then treat with phosphoric acid to remove any rust. Work the rails flat and smooth out any dings/dents. A 1/4" thick piece of steel in a vice works great as an anvil to work against. A little bit of spot putty to fill in any blemishes, then paint them engine color.

Osborne makes the correct emissions decal

https://www.npdlink.com/product/dec...s=9c485&top_parent=200001&year=1973&year=1973
 
There really should be any real trick to doing this, except making sure that the rails are flat, which you can do with a hammer and some flat wood, or a small dolly. The best way to do it would be to sandblast them and then primer them and paint them, but if you have not access to a sandblaster you can always just sand them down real good, and then primer and paint. Make sure to degrease them real well before you start.

You can also use paint stripper on them if you don't have access to a bead/sand blaster.

I'd do a thorough degreasing, followed by paint stripper, then treat with phosphoric acid to remove any rust. Work the rails flat and smooth out any dings/dents. A 1/4" thick piece of steel in a vice works great as an anvil to work against. A little bit of spot putty to fill in any blemishes, then paint them engine color.

Osborne makes the correct emissions decal

https://www.npdlink.com/product/dec...s=9c485&top_parent=200001&year=1973&year=1973
I do have access to a sand blaster at work, I did my drum covers last year with it...is one method better that the other? Chemically stripping vs blasting? I think the only medium we have here at work is garnet chips, and walnut chips? And as for flattening, these were on my car years ago...they should be flat no?

And thanks for the sticker link Hemikiller, I was worried about destroying it and had no idea reproductions were out there.
 
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I do have access to a sand blaster at work, I did my drum covers last year with it...is one method better that the other? Chemically stripping vs blasting? I think the only medium we have here at work is garnet chips, and walnut chips? And as for flattening, these were on my car years ago...they should be flat no?

And thanks for the sticker link Hemikiller, I was worried about destroying it and had no idea reproductions were out there.

I prefer to not use abrasive blasting on parts that will be exposed to the interior of the engine. It doesn't take but a little bit of abrasive trapped in the baffle to later come loose and cause an issue.

Lay a straight edge across the rails, most likely the metal is puckered around the bolt holes, and the rails have a curve to them. Only takes a few minutes to true them up.
 
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