Various Engine/Underhood Details

[jpaz]

oh , sorry I have my original 50 year old q code air cleaner cover on.

 

[Stanglover]

Now that I am done with the battery tray I need to ask which slop gray is the better option? I see two options one of a "medium" gray and a "darker" gray on NPD.

I was thinking the darker gray because I've mostly heard the gray is just slightly distinguished from the semi-gloss painting of the rest of the engine bay. Thanks in advance.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-dark-slop-gray-correct-dark/204598?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-medium-slop-gray-correct-medium/107680?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

I know it was last year when I enquired about the darker slop grey at NPD and was told it was out of stock and likely not being re-stocked, so it may no longer be available.... or not looking at the link.

When I did mine, I actually tried to darken a can of NPD slop grey. I carefully pierced the can, drained the paint into a gun container then added semi-gloss black, but all I really did was just make more paint, hardly any different. Next time I needed to touch up, I just used the slop grey. 

As jpaz said, there was really no actual color as it was typically left over paint mixed together. No matter what paints you mix, you'll end up with some sort of grey color, hence the name 'slop grey".

 

[NOT A T5]

oh , sorry I have my original 50 year old q code air cleaner cover on.

Your 50 year old air cleaner lid looks fine!  ::thumb::

 

[Stanglover]

@jpaz Yeah its all different shades so I think I will go with the darker option just because its less dramatic looking

Her’s a couple pics of my underhood detail 

 Looking good John.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I have probably mentioned in the past. Back when I was painting cars on a regular basis I used DuPont. My local supplier like anyone screwed up on a mix at times, just like Lowe's. He kept them all and would mix them all together and it could be red, bright blue, white, yellow and when you mixed it all up it always turns gray. That is the average between black and white. He would sell to the farmers to paint equipment with was close to the Ford Gray color they used on the 8-N tractors. 

I feel the reason Ford went to gray for primer is that it is the average of all colors so easier to cover with less paint. 

If you go get a photo 40% gray card at a photo shop that is the average between white and black. I have not seen that much of a difference in the colors in original cars.

 

[MikeGriese]

If you are looking for concours ready results, join MCA. For your $50 membership, you get access to their concours judging guide and rules, which has guidance on finishes. I would also recommend AMK Products. They have concours correct bolts for everything.

 

[icejawa]

Anyone have advice on getting the "iron phospate" finish on the shock towers and hood latch?

 

[jpaz]

Check out post #6 by 73 Pony

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-shock-tower-cap

 

[icejawa]

Check out post #6 by 73 Pony

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-shock-tower-cap

I read the thread you linked and it looks like the place to buy the solution (Palmetto) has no website or anything anymore. What else can I use as I am sure I can obtain the solution on ebay or amazon?

 

[jpaz]

Check out post #6 by 73 Pony

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-shock-tower-cap

I read the thread you linked and it looks like the place to buy the solution (Palmetto) has no website or anything anymore. What else can I use as I am sure I can obtain the solution on ebay or amazon?

I guess you could ask Carolina Mountain Mustangs aka David. Pretty sure he has a thread on here somewhere about it. Another one to ask would be Fabrice, he’s gotta have info about it too. Or try looking in the search tab, that’s were I found the link I gave you.

I don’t know how to do it, so I just used Cast Blast paint. Was good enough for me, not doing any concourse shows or anything like that. Hope you can figure it out!

 

[Don C]

Look for Parkerizing, here's an example:

https://mg34.com/product/home-parkerizing-kit-manganese/

 

[icejawa]

The palmetto guy sells the stuff on ebay i found so that's where i purchased it. Anyone able to recommend a way to restore the radiator fan shroud? I tried mothers back to black but that didn't work to restore the faded color.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The fan shroud did not have a finish applied it was as molded. I wash mine with lacquer thinner and blast with walnut shells. You can spray with satin clear to get an even finish. I do this for the under fender splash guards also. Only pic I have is out of focus. The splash guards I cleaned with lacquer thinner and did not blast as they were pretty good. Going to forum member in Europe soon.

I had not seen your post looking for the Iron Phosphate. Did you find some? You use distilled water to mix with it. A couple parts I did not mention that are also Iron Phosphate are the belt adjuster for the AC and also the bracket that holds the adjuster. 

When you do the hood springs I take a piece of 1/2" conduit and stretch the spring slightly to get the coils separated so the solution gets between the coils. You will get a set of instructions with the phosphate. Heating the solution makes it work faster. I do outside use a thermometer like you check your deep fryer with. I got a couple different size stainless containers from Goodwill to do mine in. I mentioned previously that you raise the level in your container by putting in jars filled with water. You need the parts to be completely submerged so you do not get lines on the parts. Have lots of WD-40 to spray on the parts after they are washed. I have considered trying melting wax to coat them and see how that looks. 

 

[icejawa]

The fan shroud did not have a finish applied it was as molded. I wash mine with lacquer thinner and blast with walnut shells. You can spray with satin clear to get an even finish. I do this for the under fender splash guards also. Only pic I have is out of focus. The splash guards I cleaned with lacquer thinner and did not blast as they were pretty good. Going to forum member in Europe soon.

I had not seen your post looking for the Iron Phosphate. Did you find some? You use distilled water to mix with it. A couple parts I did not mention that are also Iron Phosphate are the belt adjuster for the AC and also the bracket that holds the adjuster. 

When you do the hood springs I take a piece of 1/2" conduit and stretch the spring slightly to get the coils separated so the solution gets between the coils. You will get a set of instructions with the phosphate. Heating the solution makes it work faster. I do outside use a thermometer like you check your deep fryer with. I got a couple different size stainless containers from Goodwill to do mine in. I mentioned previously that you raise the level in your container by putting in jars filled with water. You need the parts to be completely submerged so you do not get lines on the parts. Have lots of WD-40 to spray on the parts after they are washed. I have considered trying melting wax to coat them and see how that looks. 

great tips thanks

 

[icejawa]

Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

 

[icejawa]

Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 

[Stanglover]

Now I have a leak in the radiator from a spot that looks like the fins were crushed during an engine swap. Is it possible to repair this? Maybe an expert is around the Cleveland area. I'll have to get a picture later since the whole thing is still installed.

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!!

By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor.

 

[icejawa]

A radiator shop can solder it if you remove and take to them. Is the inside clean? Do you have deposits on the ends of the tubes when you look in?

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!!

By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor.

Exactly and the previous owner had a shop do it, they did a terrible job as well as a bad paint job on the engine that's in there

 

[Stanglover]

It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch.

 If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!!

By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor.

Exactly and the previous owner had a shop do it, they did a terrible job as well as a bad paint job on the engine that's in there

 So now with the "new" engine (not in yet), you'll have the opportunity to do the engine bay and motor right and to your liking. 

On mine, I chose Eastwood 2K ceramic paint after a thorough cleaning and prep, You'll need 3 cans to do it right. I skimped with 2 and had a job getting it all done. I have found it tough and durable albeit not easy to clean because of the texture. It does look good though. Your choice of course what paint you chose.

For the motor, I chose Dupilcolor Dark Corporate blue # 1604 (I think, check that).