Voltage Regulator

[jpaz]

So I bought a correct VR for my 72 Q Code, and now my lights pulse really bad. I knew I would get some pulsing changing back from an electronic one, but it's really bad.

I want to take the blue cover off the old style one and put it on the electronic one. The problem is the rivets. I have never had to remove and replace these kind before. Does anyone know what they are called, and the tool to install them?

Really trying to get under hood stock looking. Thank's!

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I think they make a decal to apply to your cover so you don't have to change.

Something so simple I do not know why they cannot make them right.

 

[John J]

So I bought a correct VR for my 72 Q Code, and now my lights pulse really bad. I knew I would get some pulsing changing back from an electronic one, but it's really bad.

I want to take the blue cover off the old style one and put it on the electronic one. The problem is the rivets. I have never had to remove and replace these kind before. Does anyone know what they are called, and the tool to install them?

Really trying to get under hood stock looking. Thank's!

I have the same problem John. I have a standard brand electronic one

and its works great. no light flicker. I put in the 73 motor craft repo and the lights flicker big time. Changing the cover sounds like a good idea.

John J

 

[barnett468]

One name for the rivets is button head rivets and we bought a 60 year old mechanical rivet machine to install those types of rivets with.

 

[jpaz]

I bought some split rivets and they have the same size head and shape as the tube ones so I think I can make those work. I got them at ACO hardware & they don't sell the tool for the tube rivets, figured the split ones should work. I will post some pics when done.

 

[John J]

Sounds good John. I bought 2 repo Motorcraft VR and did not like the performance of either one. Would be great to pop off the cover and put it on my electronic one.

John J

 

[73pony]

Does anyone have a pic of what it should look like on a 73 H code? Mine is black and says Borg Warner on it. So I assume it is aftermarket??

 

[secluff]

73pony, depending on how your car was equipped and when it was built, there could be several different ones used during production. D3AF-A OR AA, D3TF-A or AA, are the most common ones and another number released late in 73 model run that was also used as a service replacement (D4TF-A or AA). By the time the final 73-79 catalog was printed in Nov 1988 all regulators had been replaced with the electronic regulator that originally was released in 1982. The picture below illustrates the blue color with yellow printing the regulator on your car would have had when new.

To anyone wanting the original look, I would do as jpaz is doing and swap the original top to the electronic regulator and never look back. Hopefully he will have a good report on how the rivets worked out. The Ford part number for the electronic unit is FOPZ-10316-A (Motorcraft GR-540-B)

 

[eddyw]

one on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Falcon-XW-XY-GT-351-Voltage-Regulator-NOS-Genuine-Ford-GT-HO-GR-341-B-Motorcraft-/301961396976?hash=item464e4d42f0:g:vF0AAOSwZQxW5Xh~&vxp=mtr

 

[jb73Mach]

For what its worth, I bought a Motorcraft mechanical regulator and had the same problem - flickering lights etc. I switched the housing with a NAPA electronic regulator and everything has been fine.

 

[Don C]

You used to be able to buy the semi-tubular rivets and tools in just about any hardware store (I know I have a couple of the tools in a box someplace) now it's online:

http://www.hansonrivet.com/hand-rivet-clinchers.htm

Places like Hobby Lobby that sell craft supplies have rivets and snaps, along with the setting tool, but the tools aren't very durable. Leather supply places have better quality.

 

[72HCODE]

I had the same issue i have been through at least 5 of these reproduction concourse correct voltage regulators.

Heavy duty etc.. mechanical etc. they are all garbage.

the last unit i got about 5 years out of and it just went bad last week, started spewing over 15 volts.

i noticed my lights started to flicker bad...

went to advanced auto and bought a modern electronic regulator. unbolted the concourse made in USA mechanical junk and installed the made in china regulator. perfect voltage right on first start up.

done with concourse correct reproduction if you drive the car avoid it. if you trailer the car then it is perfect.

 

[jpaz]

I changed mine yesterday. Took the blue cover of the junk mechanical one & put it on the electronic one. I used some split rivets so I didn't have to buy a tool for the tube rivets. Worked great, the rivets look the same so you can't tell it was switched. No more annoying flickering lights!