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After the engine swap my throttle cable angles were awful, so I put a Lokar throttle cable on. That was an easy install so I bought a Lokar kickdown cable as well. I figure an hour would be all the time I needed to install it. Nah. Dropping one exhaust pipe wasn't enough so I let the transmission down some and that was the ticket. Should've done that first instead of wasting hours trying to finagle the bolt in. Once I got the kickdown adjusted, whew boy, the power gains became evident. My intentions were to do a quick kickdown install and then pull the heater box for a new heater core and whatever else needed replacing in it. Since the kickdown took so long I only got the water pump caps on and tested. One blew off but was good after a little clamp adjustment. And after reading this thread I'm thankful we don't have salt so I can drive year round.

Before and after.
 

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What more can a guy ask for on his birthday than to work on a Mustang?

How's this for a hood spring remover?

got to keep finding new ways to use tools that are collecting dust between engine jobs.
 

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AcesArneson said:
What more can a guy ask for on his birthday than to work on a Mustang?

How's this for a hood spring remover?

got to keep finding new ways to use tools that are collecting dust between engine jobs.
Click to expand...
another use
 

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I'm just putting the finishing touches on my new engine short block. The rotating assembly is in, as is the cam and timing chain assembly. I'm moving right along and forgot to stop to take photos. I'll take a few of the top and bottom prior to finalizing the oil pan install. Then, on to the heads and topside assemblies. I will be ready for a summertime engine swap. This is the same engine I started to post about in the "Australian Head Engine Project".
 
Puled my interior out to replace the leaking heater core just in time for spring 😂 which just opened a can of worms 🪱. Now I have new heater A/C box, new heater core which I already had and a new evaporator. Shoot while I have the interior out I might as well add sound deadener also. Are they ever done.
PS yes you can remove the A/C box without removing the dash. We will see how it is putting in back in.
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Spike Morelli said:
I'm just putting the finishing touches on my new engine short block. The rotating assembly is in, as is the cam and timing chain assembly. I'm moving right along and forgot to stop to take photos. I'll take a few of the top and bottom prior to finalizing the oil pan install. Then, on to the heads and topside assemblies. I will be ready for a summertime engine swap. This is the same engine I started to post about in the "Australian Head Engine Project".
Click to expand...
Is it a Cleveland? What oil pan are you using? Do the Australian heads hold as much oil as the North American heads?
 
HeavyCoupe said:
Big brain strats right there. Respect.
Click to expand...
Tarp strap works pretty good for changing front shocks when your engine is out of the car as well. I didn't have any fat friends off work to call over to hold the front end down when I was painting the top shock mounts. Sorry, never took pictures. Wrapped the strap through the wheel (factory rims, had to take the strap out and loop the thin end through first), then looped it through the top coil on the spring and tied the other end of the strap to the tie rod.
 
rio1856 said:
Today I opened up the charcoal canister and restored it. I filled it with fresh activated charcoal that I got on Amazon. Since I know you guys like pics here is some that I took of the process.
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I wish I had thought of that when I was working on mine. I just stripped and refinished and didn't even think of function. Nice job!
 
AcesArneson said:
Is it a Cleveland? What oil pan are you using? Do the Australian heads hold as much oil as the North American heads?
Click to expand...
Yes, it's a 351 c . I am using a stock oil pan, and don't really know, or am concerned, at what amount of oil would be in the heads. After owning and driving the original 351c regularly for 34 years without experiencing any oiling issues, that video the "Aussie" posted is just one man's theory . I won't be over thinking the design for my purposes.
 

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Oh boy, look what showed up yesterday! Piece number 1 of 4 for swapping the Sherman Army Tank front bumper out to a 71-72 style, paintable.
 

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Spike Morelli said:
Yes, it's a 351 c . I am using a stock oil pan, and don't really know, or am concerned, at what amount of oil would be in the heads. After owning and driving the original 351c regularly for 34 years without experiencing any oiling issues, that video the "Aussie" posted is just one man's theory . I won't be over thinking the design for my purposes.
Click to expand...
Awesome that it ran for 34 years. The only reason I mentioned it is that when mine was on the Dyno with a 6 quart pan, the mechanic stopped the pull at 6000 rpm because he noticed oil pressure starting to drop off. I think I will go to the 7 quart. I likely will never have it up in that range much but piece of mind goes a long way.
 
I finished installing my new head unit, not for everyone, but man does it sound great. Speakers still need a spacer to fit, it’s just temporary.

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AcesArneson said:
Awesome that it ran for 34 years. The only reason I mentioned it is that when mine was on the Dyno with a 6 quart pan, the mechanic stopped the pull at 6000 rpm because he noticed oil pressure starting to drop off. I think I will go to the 7 quart. I likely will never have it up in that range much but piece of mind goes a long way.
Click to expand...
Are you running a HV pump? What about oil? What viscosity were you running on the dyno?

I had a whole response written but decided it might generate controversy, but suffice it to say that I believe the 2v vs 4v overhead oil retention will be very similar, all else being equal.
 
Steve McMahan said:
I finished installing my new head unit, not for everyone, but man does it sound great. Speakers still need a spacer to fit, it’s just temporary.

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Click to expand...

I intend to do something like this, as well. I'd like to find a way to incorporate a decent sized screen for a backup camera. I don't think my eyes are good enough for a smaller screen. One option might be a rear view mirror cam...but I'd rather just leave the RVM off of the windshield. I took mine off years ago and it's still in the glovebox.
 

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