Check, but I think it depends on what brand and type of conversion kit you buy. As mentioned before, I went with the Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston kit and this kit did NOT need to change the spindles. All that was needed was to remove the drum hub and that can be done without taking it apart first. Again, I replaced all my lines with SS, but it still only took me a little over 2 hours to do.
Actually my plan is to swap the disc brakes from my Grandé to the Mach 1 which has drums.
Ok, looks like this was never answered. I'm not sure what your question is, but I'll try. The pedal mount support needs to have the two lower holes drilled out to 3/8th" removing the old threads. Mine was different because I wanted to replace the clutch pivot bushing with ball bearings, a kit I bought from Mustang Steve. If you're doing an automatic I think it can be done without removing the bracket, just a pain to get in there to replace the pivot pin and bushings, but removing the seat helps big time. ( I do that now any time I'm working in that area)
Not so. there are two studs # 384463-5 I think, that hold the bottom of the pedal bracket on a non-power brake set-up. These are screwed into the pedal bracket. It is these holes that have to be drilled out so the lower two attachment bolts on the booster can pass through and have the nuts hold it all together.All,
From what understand, there should be no drilling at all involved!
Drum Brakes
Source: Ford Motor Co. CR: May 1975
You just need the right mounting plates.
