wiring a radio, amps and speakers with no experience..

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cazsper

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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
My Car
1968 Coupe: 393w, TKO-600, Maier Racing springs, Global West suspension, Currie 9in with forged axles, 3.50 gears, Trutrac, Baer brakes front/rear
1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
I honestly have no experience in this and was wondering how difficult it really was. If I were to have someone quite the audio system for power, would it be difficult to wire connect the radio to the amps and speakers to save money?

 
Don't be afraid to have a go ...you will get all the help you need...

The only person who thinks he can't do it is you...

Once you do it, you will be glad you did, and then you will wonder what all the fuss is about.

Same goes for most things in life ... if you don't give it a go, then how do you know you can't do it?

Can you weld? No? Really? Have you tried? Can you spray paint? No. Really? Etc......

Enjoy the journey .... it's the best part....

Jim ...(jack of all trades ...master of none).

 
I have done many installs in the past and a few in the present.

the one thing I can't stress enough is if you are installing an amp in the trunk, Please install a fuse under the hood no further than 18" from the power source (Battery) the closer the fuse the better.

I have seen many car fires from the amp power wire because the fuse was in the trunk and not under the hood.

your best bet is pick up and amp Install kit, it has everything you need.

and ask many questions, we'll be here to help :)

 
It's not as hard as it sounds. The key thing is to make sure the speakers are the correct impedance for the stereo, and that all speaker wires are connected with the proper polarity ( + and - ), otherwise, it'll sound like crap in a coffee can. The only time you'd ever want a speaker out of phase (polarity) is when you have 2 subs sharing the same space in a box - that can really boost the bass output, depending on the box design and subs themselves.

Also, spring for all new speaker wire, of the appropriate size and quality - it may not sound like a big thing, but the stuff that came with the car absolutely sucks for any kind of modern sound system (I wouldn't use 40-42 year old factory speaker wiring to run a dome light, to be honest). Most speaker wire is either different 'color' (copper for +, and aluminized copper for - ), has a stripe, or prints their logo and information on the + side... use that as a guide for keeping your polarity straight.

Believe it or not, wiring up a stereo with an amp might even be a little easier than without, because it'll be simple RCA plugs between the head unit and amp itself, then speakers from the amp (which are typically screw-down terminals). After that, for the head unit, it's just constant power, keyed power, ground, and the on/off wire for the amp (electric antenna on older units), and then the power & ground for the amp. If you just install a head unit, you'll need to connect the speakers directly to it (or its harness), which can be a little complicated (that LF/LR/RF/RR and polarity thing), along with the rest.

Can you solder? If so, I recommend making your wiring connections using solder and heat shrink tubing - much more reliable and permanent. But, if you aren't comfortable with that, those solderless [crimp] connectors will work... still would be a good idea to further insulate with heat shrink tubing over the joints (which will also help keep the wires from backing out if the crimps aren't tight enough).

What Iyman said about the fuse being close to the battery is excellent advice. You can't be too careful with the power source, especially if it's high power for the amps.

Find a good place for the amp out of a high traffic area (somewhere in the trunk is usually best, but make sure there's adequate air space around it - it'll get warm when you're cranking it up - having too little airspace or stuff piled on top of it can kill it, or possible burn something up. As well, having it somewhere it can get kicked or banged around is just not good either.

Otherwise, look at the directions that come with each of the components and go from there. If you purchase from someplace like Crutchfield, they'll provide free instructions and tech support.

Hope that helps!

 
Wow, thanks everyone. It doesn't seem all that bad. Yes, I can solder by the way. I have a couple more questions. One, how many speakers (not including the sun-woofers) can I reasonably fit in the car? And where have/would you put them? Also, I have two 10" sub woofers. I have heard that I should face them towards the front of the car and some say I should face them towards the truck. Some say the subs should be in the trunk and some say the subs should be in the car.. any help would be appreciated

 
Well, speaker placement is kind of subjective. From front to back:

There is a place smack in the middle of the top of the dashboard for a factory speaker, or if you check with the vendors, an aftermarket dual cone solution (which sounds WAY better, but still not very 'stereophonic').

Depending on the size, you could possibly squeeze them into the kick panels with some Q-logic-type aftermarket kick panels, expect them to interfere with the e-brake pedal though. Check Greg's (Austin Vert) thread about how he solved that issue (basically modified the e-brake pedal to work).

If your door panels have the 'grilles,' you could put some in the lower front corner of each door (where the factory 'deluxe' speakers came, if I remember correctly). Depending on the size, some trimming of the door metal and/or door panel might be required.

A popular place (although, unsightly and very damaging to the interior) is the rear quarter panel, just below the quarter window. Again, making holes in the metal as well as the rare plastic trim panel. I wouldn't recommend doing this, but if your panels are already 'pre-cut' by the previous owners, it might not be a bad way to spare having to buy new panels.

Then we have the rear deck. On fixed rear seat fastback models, there are all sorts of places for speakers to go there. Pulling out the package tray trim panel will expose lots of different speaker configuration possibilities. I believe 5x7s and/or 4x10s will drop right into the factory holes. With some 1" spacers (on top of the trim panel) you could fit some 6x9s without having to trim anything (except drilling some mounting holes, of course... unless you can get creative and somehow use the factory screw holes to mount the spacers, then simply mount the speakers to the spacers that is).

As well, that space immediately under the package tray is just screaming for a custom fit box with a couple (or three) of subs. Build the box with the speaker cones firing into the back of the rear seat - it will offer the best protection for the cones. Built the box correctly, and you can even have room for mounting the amp(s) and other electronics you might need to support the system.

As far as fold-down seats, 'verts, and coupes, I think someone else will have to chime in, as I'm not familiar with those rear seat/package tray areas.

How many speakers? Well, again - subjective. I'm thinking a pair in the center dash, 5.5"s in the lower door panels, 6x9"s in the package tray, and a pair of 10"-12" subs (w/custom box) for mine with a single amp to drive the subs. Depending on how things go, I might put some 5.5"s in the quarter trim panels (since there are already holes there) - I'll know more if I can restore the panels or not.

On a related note: I have a similar set-up in my Ram (minus the dash speakers): JVC CD/MP3 head unit, Infinity 5.5" component speakers w/separate tweeters in the doors (to replace the factory 6x9s), Infinity 5.5" dual cones in the 'B' pillars, and an MTX Thunderbox w/12" MTX subs. The head unit drives the Infinitys, and the Thunderbox is driven by an MTX Sledgehammer 1000 amp. The system cranks and is absolutely crystal clear - it runs up to 50 on the volume, and 40 is about all I care to handle (which is freaken loud... trust me) - I typically listen to it in the 28-32 range during normal driving.

 
what body style is you car?

keep the sub's in the trunk, as for which way to face it depends on the car, hatchbacks seam to like then facing backwards, I have always had the speakers facing the interior of the car.

you can fit two 3 1/2" speakers in the dash, 5 1/4" in the doors, and 6 1/2" in the rear quarters.

if you have a package tray you can have two 6"x9" 's

it all depends on how crazy you want to get with it.

when I first bought my mustang, I had two JL Audio 12" sub's in the trunk facing the interior with a 200 watt Sony amp, two Pioneer 3 1/2" in the dash, and two 5 1/4" in the rear panels, with a separate 200 watt amp, I installed an after market 65 amp alternator, I had a 4 AWG power wire from the Battery to the trunk, I used Black power wire from the engine compartment to the trunk to keep it discreet under the hood.

3 years ago I removed the subs, and the amps, reinstalled the Stock alternator, I have a 1972 Thunderbird AM/FM Radio, I still have the dash and rear speakers. but all of the power wires are still running into the trunk, just incase I change my mind.

I lost the sound quality, but I have the near stock look,

 
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When i was 17 i installed a radio shack underdash 8 track and a sanyo amp in my 72 coupe. I used new Jensen coaxel speakers in the rear. For some reason they were instlled in black plastic speaker cabinets that tilted them forward. The amp was small, maybe 80 watts and was stuck behind the heater controls and stayed in place with some tape i think. I installed it with a pair of pliers and screw drivers and electrical tape and it sounded AWSOME. I cant remember how i ran the speaker wires, or where the leads were wired....but if i did it when i was 17 i am sure you can do it now. probably paid $100 bucks for everything. The radio still worked when he tape player wasnt chewing up a tape Ha Ha. But it really did sound great. no need for a subwoofer at all. Waste of money. I do remember being told to pull over by a cop directing traffic because it was so loud playing LZ. He told me to turn it down and sent me on my way. Ah the good times.

 
When i was 17 i installed a radio shack underdash 8 track and a sanyo amp in my 72 coupe. I used new Jensen coaxel speakers in the rear. For some reason they were instlled in black plastic speaker cabinets that tilted them forward. The amp was small, maybe 80 watts and was stuck behind the heater controls and stayed in place with some tape i think. I installed it with a pair of pliers and screw drivers and electrical tape and it sounded AWSOME. I cant remember how i ran the speaker wires, or where the leads were wired....but if i did it when i was 17 i am sure you can do it now. probably paid $100 bucks for everything. The radio still worked when he tape player wasnt chewing up a tape Ha Ha. But it really did sound great. no need for a subwoofer at all. Waste of money. I do remember being told to pull over by a cop directing traffic because it was so loud playing LZ. He told me to turn it down and sent me on my way. Ah the good times.
Ah yes - the things we did when we didn't know better or have enough money to do it right. I had installed a JVC AM/FM/Cass deck in my '82, with a Majestic 9-band EQ/amp, Jensen 4" door speakers, Clarion 990 6x9s and it sounded awesome as well! I guarantee that everything was at least crimp-connected, bundled & tucked, and did not cause issues when bouncing over bumps.

But - stereo technology is a LOT different now. I guarantee that the awesome stereo 'systems' in our first cars would sound like absolute crap compared to a modern system done right.

Subs done right (output adjusted appropriately for the rest of the system and the music it's putting out) do nothing but enrich the sound - there are a lot of older tunes that actually come alive on a full-range system. 'Waste of money' to some, 'just what is needed' to others.

 
Well i guess thats possible. But i think of the expensive sub i had installed in the house and never used because it was more of a distraction. And the cars in NYC with subs you can feel 100yrds away seem like a little overkill. I have some Arial acoustics in the house now and that sub seemed to muddy the lows. But again, maybe i didnt adjust it correctly, or maybe didnt match well with the main speakers capabilities. But those 6x9's sure put out some thumpin. Remember Kiss playing Love Gun? Or the recorded distortion on Foreigner tapes? What? I didnt hear you? What? Yeah, they rock!

 
The body style is a fastback (it's a Mach-1). I'm planning a single din pioneer DEH-X8500BS receiver. I have two 10" Alumapro subs and Zapco amps. I'm not sure what to do for component speakers just yet.

 
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