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FMX Transmission Leak Bell Housing


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Got home from a cruise in and had a significant transmission leak under the car. Crawled under and its coming from inside the bell housing and leaking out of the inspection plate area. There has been a small oil leak before this and couldn't visually see it, but it appeared the oil was coming out of the inspection plate area. Transmission fluid is on my exhaust pipes so it looks like it leaking during operation.

 

Background: 351 Clev, 2V, FMX automatic. Just finished restoring the car so It hasn't been driven much since putting the engine and transmission back in around a year ago. Probably maybe have 100 miles on it due to the restoration. While we had it out we put in new rear main seals (replaced all seals), put in new fly wheel and torque converter.

 

Give me the bad news!

 

Frustrating as the car looks great and I'm dying to cruise in it and now this setback.

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The most likely suspect is the front (input) seal. The other possibilities are the pump seal/gasket and a split torque converter weld.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Hi,

Where to get a very good quality input & output shaft/housing seal, part number/manufacturer please(still available by Ford dealer?).

Thanks for advice,

eddyw

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Unfortunately you are going to have to drop the transmission to change out the front seal, it can be done in an afternoon taking your time though. I can pull an FMX in less than an hour without much difficulty.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, the crazy part is this is going to be 4th time we have had to drop it. We have replaced everything and pretty sure we had the front seal replaced when we put in the new torque converter. Sigh...but becoming an expert on dropping it.

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Well, the crazy part is this is going to be 4th time we have had to drop it. We have replaced everything and pretty sure we had the front seal replaced when we put in the new torque converter. Sigh...but becoming an expert on dropping it.

 

Yep. Looks like the front seal will need replacing. I know, more practice isn't what you had in mind...

Doc

Project started 8-7-10

Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system

Current "mini-project": interior upgrade :-/

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=76]Doc's Garage[/button][button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible-restoration-and-modification]Doc's Wiki[/button]

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  • 2 weeks later...

A common mistake that happens when replacing rubber seals is ppl dont lube the rubber seal or

the shaft it is sealing resulting in a dry assembly and cooking the rubber seal quickly.

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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FMX's are a bit on the heavy side. I pulled one out of my 72 Coupe 25 years ago by myself when I was still young and in shape (well round is a shape), but an aluminum cased 5 speed is much nicer . . . .

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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In addition to some oil or petro jelly I run a very thin amount of The Right Stuff around the mating surfaces too before I pound the seal into place. Takes up any imperfections in the matting surfaces. I hate leaks! Pep Boys or Advanced Auto parts carries these. The tail shaft seal I had a problem. Both places had the wrong one listed. Front seal was right though.

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  • 2 years later...

I am having the same leak from the bell housing inspection plate. It only leaks after driving over 50-75 miles. I would think the only thing it could be is the front seal. After driving 3 Saturday nights for about 30-40 miles each, no leak! Looks like a good winter project (add it to the list).

Thanks for all the good info.

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