71 mustang front suspension rebuilding Tips?

So I will be rebuilding the front end of my 71 Mustang Coupe this saturday and I was just looking for some tips before I start. Is there some kind of sequence to do things that might be ideal? I want to be able to put things back together and put the car back on the ground should I need any parts that I might have forgot to purchase haha

My only tip is be cautious where you use polyurethane bushings, like on the strut rods if you go that route

My only tip is be cautious where you use polyurethane bushings, like on the strut rods if you go that route

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Yep, I'm going for rubber bushings on the strut rod. Specifically MOOG K8157 Rubber Bushings

Don't drive it far without getting an alignment, tires can rub raw very quickly in some cases. Don't forget to grease up and remember to hit all of your zirc fittings. I did mine one side at a time, front first then back, or you could do vice versa (only I would do the back all at once, easier with a jack under the pumpkin). When you have your front upper and lower arms off, degrease the area and scrape away all the old debris, then spray a nice coat of SEM undercoating in black, it will look great!

These are all great tips! Thank you. I am looking for more of a sequence to remove things that would make the job easier. Any suggestions? I also don't have all the parts that I would like to replace, so would it be worth it to just do some now and the steering components when I get them or should I just wait until I get all the parts?

I am the worst guy to give advice on the proper order, I usually just start tearing parts off and then can't remember how it all goes back together. Someone above mentioned one side at a time, and you can't really do anything without removing the coil spring, so that should be at the top of the list.

Also, you'll need to get an alignment when you are finished, and if you replace the steering linkage at a later time, you'll either need another alignment to check the toe, or not drive the car until you get the steering stuff changed.

Something to think about...

Redid my'72 last year, everything but the drag link. If I remember correctly, the shocks came out first, then the springs.

I used a good INTERNAL spring compressor on them. I think the rest is just wrenching off. Maybe soak all the uca and lca attach points for ease of removal. I had my steering box overhauled and also replaced my rag joint. I did an "eyeball" length comparison on the tie rod ends, ( if you don't disturb the adjusting nuts you can use the old ones as a comparison for the new) and took

it in and got it aligned immediately after the last bolt was tightened, my tires still squealed at times on the way to the shop though.

The shocks were a PITA to align in the shock towers, but I was told that was normal. There are good videos and threads on all this work on the internet too. Just be careful with the springs!!!!!!!!!!::thumb::

If you have other transportation I would suggest that you get everything off and do some checking on what colors of paint goes on what components. Get the parts that are going back on blasted and spruce them up some. It might sound crazy but might be a good time to pull the front fenders off and clean out all the crap that gets behind them. Also the seam sealer and undercoat they spray on the inner is usually cracked and needs to be scraped off and replaced. Did mine put POR on then seam sealer and sprayed undercoat. Also cleaned the plastic splash guards and blasted with walnut shells and sprayed with satin clear. With the fenders off it is easy to pressure wash everything and lots easier to work on also. This car has not been painted note how much more paint the guy on the R.H. side sprayed on the inner that the guy on the L.H. side. I could not find my pics when it was finished had a computer die.

My Mach 1 with only 12,000 miles had two sets of ball joints installed in that time. Why? Well I use to drive like a maniac jumped it on a country paved road and bottomed out the front cross member it came down so hard. Also did autocross a lot and slid sideways into curbs and almost flipped the car a couple times. Trashed the chrome wheels. The ball joints came off just to be safe.

The pics are of the vert I was doing a deep detail on and had the fenders off. 48,000 mile car so did not replace anything.

It is good to do the mechanical but don't forget our #1 enemy RUST.

David

If you have other transportation I would suggest that you get everything off and do some checking on what colors of paint goes on what components. Get the parts that are going back on blasted and spruce them up some. It might sound crazy but might be a good time to pull the front fenders off and clean out all the crap that gets behind them. Also the seam sealer and undercoat they spray on the inner is usually cracked and needs to be scraped off and replaced. Did mine put POR on then seam sealer and sprayed undercoat. Also cleaned the plastic splash guards and blasted with walnut shells and sprayed with satin clear. With the fenders off it is easy to pressure wash everything and lots easier to work on also. This car has not been painted note how much more paint the guy on the R.H. side sprayed on the inner that the guy on the L.H. side. I could not find my pics when it was finished had a computer die.

My Mach 1 with only 12,000 miles had two sets of ball joints installed in that time. Why? Well I use to drive like a maniac jumped it on a country paved road and bottomed out the front cross member it came down so hard. Also did autocross a lot and slid sideways into curbs and almost flipped the car a couple times. Trashed the chrome wheels. The ball joints came off just to be safe.

The pics are of the vert I was doing a deep detail on and had the fenders off. 48,000 mile car so did not replace anything.

It is good to do the mechanical but don't forget our #1 enemy RUST.

David

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Great Idea on the rust protection! I did pick up a few bottles of 3M's underbody rubber sealant and cleaned off the frame rails and inside the shock tower.

If you don't have a manual, get one. Lots of information even in the Haynes manual.

Coil springs come out first, everything else is easy....-ish. Use this compressor:

http://www.autozone.com/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?itemId=1261-10&parentId=6-10&displayName=Coil+Spring+Compressor&currentPage=1&navValue=101261&categoryDisplayName=Steering+and+Suspension&_requestid=16856&CJPID=4145469&cmpid=cj

It can be bought or borrowed at Autozone. The type that has four hooks is a real pain and even dangerous.

When I have done front ends, it always seems easier to do both sides at once, leaving tierod ends for last.

You don't say if you are rebuilding your u/l arms or buying new. If rebuilding, mark the lower eccentric position and you might be in the ballpark of the original setting that will allow you to get the tierods in the ballpark, too, and won't tear up the tires before an alignment. If new arms, all bets are off.

Take pics before disassembly of how everything is put together, especially the strutrod bushings. Bear in mind that previous owners/mechs may not have put things back together right or left parts out. That's where the drawings in the manuals come in handy.

Take a look at my video

Although I installed a non stock front suspension I detail the removal of the old stuff

I replaced all of my front suspension, then about a year later replaced all of my steering. I recommend doing it all once if at all possible. Scott gives great advice, and watching a video is way easier than trying to understand what someone is trying to explain in text. Lastly, while you have everything off, check out your brakes to include the brake line going to your front calipers/drums. In a car this old, it wouldt be a bad idea to replace them and rebuild whatever brake setup you have on your car. This way you have a nice tight, brand new front end when you are finished, it makes a world of a difference!