Arrgghh. Power steering.

[rcadd1ct]

Power steering was leaking at the output shaft.

Was hoping to limp it along and added Lucas stop leak.

That didn’t work. Went from small leak to dumping the full power steering system in 5 miles

I was going to put the lares quick unit in, but money is tight right now.

How hard is rebuilding these units?

Special tools?

I built the car from a basket case so fairly mechanically inclined, but would hate to throw more money away just to turn around and buy the lares unit.

And is thus the correct rebuild kit fir our cars?

Thx

 

[Steve McMahan]

This former message has lots of good info:

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/power-steering-rebuild.42122/

 

[rcadd1ct]

This former message has lots of good info:

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/power-steering-rebuild.42122/

Ya I looked at that one.

My shop manual has specific tools listed.

Tools and determining if hard parts were worn past use are my concerns on rebuild. Mine is an original about 130k mile car at this point that has a major incontinance problem currently

 

[Stanglover]

This thread, although a bit long winded might help also.
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/saginaw-800-power-steering-box-rebuild.32082/

What has likely happened is the sector shaft is so badly worn and/or corroded that the seals no longer do their job.
Apart from the two boxes I did do a full rebuild on including turning the sector shaft to remove the damage, then having them hard chromed and re-ground, I have not been able to find a source for Saginaw repaired or new replacement sector shafts. This means if it looks like the one in this pic, your only choice will be to get it rebuilt by a professional shop or buy new.
The rest of a rebuild is doable for someone with mechanical skills as long as you follow the instructions or YouTube videos ( some are good, some are crap!)
The first two pics are a worn out sector shaft, third one is a repaired one.
If Saginaw installed a dirt seal similar to the one on the input shaft, this damage likely wouldn't happen.
Tools needed include a GOOD in/lb beam torque wrench that measures from 0 to ? in/lbs., a suitable adaptor and a "C" spanner, pic #4

 

[Bentworker]

Here is another thread to look at. https://7173mustangs.com/threads/pl...io-spa-af-variable-ratio-firebird-12-7.25635/

 

[Bentworker]

I have some spares for fixed and variable ratio boxes. If there is a Pick-N-Pull wrecking yard near you it may be your best bet for a new (used) sector shaft. If you read my other thread you can see what boxes interchange parts with. Find a Jeep or Camaro box and make yours quick ratio (read the other thread, it isn’t any Jeep or Camaro).

Other suggestion is to purchase two rebuild kits, one with bearings and one without. The Teflon seals are tricky and you may find the extra $20 for a seal kit worth it. Nothing is more frustrating than pinching or cutting a Teflon seal without a spare.

 

[Stanglover]

Here is another thread to look at. https://7173mustangs.com/threads/pl...io-spa-af-variable-ratio-firebird-12-7.25635/

Excellent post.
I credit you for basically teaching me how and what to do to rebuild one of these PS boxes. Thank you.

 

[Stanglover]

Also, the Ford manual for the 71 (and likely also the 72) covers the rebuilding and repair for the Saginaw 800 PS box.
There is one other major rebuild you might need to do and that is to change the balls in the rack screw/piston assembly. If you have a couple of inches free play on the steering wheel, the correct (only) way to remove that is install larger balls. Ford used to sell ball kits in 6 sizes, measured to 5 decimals. The problem now is they are NLA. I was fortunate to find a rebuilder who was good enough to sell me 2 sets of larger balls ( no jokes here guys!!) It took my boxes from 2" play to near zero. NOTE: The balls in these boxes are two different sizes and differentiated by color, one dark, one shiny.
And the fun continues!

 

[rcadd1ct]

This thread, although a bit long winded might help also.
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/saginaw-800-power-steering-box-rebuild.32082/

What has likely happened is the sector shaft is so badly worn and/or corroded that the seals no longer do their job.
Apart from the two boxes I did do a full rebuild on including turning the sector shaft to remove the damage, then having them hard chromed and re-ground, I have not been able to find a source for Saginaw repaired or new replacement sector shafts. This means if it looks like the one in this pic, your only choice will be to get it rebuilt by a professional shop or buy new.
The rest of a rebuild is doable for someone with mechanical skills as long as you follow the instructions or YouTube videos ( some are good, some are crap!)
The first two pics are a worn out sector shaft, third one is a repaired one.
If Saginaw installed a dirt seal similar to the one on the input shaft, this damage likely wouldn't happen.
Tools needed include a GOOD in/lb beam torque wrench that measures from 0 to ? in/lbs., a suitable adaptor and a "C" spanner, pic #4

Excellent info. Thx.

I think I will pull the box and try to decipher if the shaft is damaged then try to make a decision from there.

Box has to come out either way.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Also, the Ford manual for the 71 (and likely also the 72) covers the rebuilding and repair for the Saginaw 800 PS box.
There is one other major rebuild you might need to do and that is to change the balls in the rack screw/piston assembly. If you have a couple of inches free play on the steering wheel, the correct (only) way to remove that is install larger balls. Ford used to sell ball kits in 6 sizes, measured to 5 decimals. The problem now is they are NLA. I was fortunate to find a rebuilder who was good enough to sell me 2 sets of larger balls ( no jokes here guys!!) It took my boxes from 2" play to near zero. NOTE: The balls in these boxes are two different sizes and differentiated by color, one dark, one shiny.
And the fun continues!

That was the book I was looking at.

I was able to get my slack removed by tightening the adjustment a little over an 1/8 of a turn.

Only have 1000 miles total on the compete rebuild. Car sat for 34ish years.

The steering box and the idler arm are the only parts on the car I haven’t touched.

Ideally I want the Opentracker roller idler

Guess I need to find more parts to sell to fund repairs.

That and olight flashlights. Too many of them things.

 

[Stanglover]

That was the book I was looking at.

I was able to get my slack removed by tightening the adjustment a little over an 1/8 of a turn.

Only have 1000 miles total on the compete rebuild. Car sat for 34ish years.

The steering box and the idler arm are the only parts on the car I haven’t touched.

Ideally I want the Opentracker roller idler

Guess I need to find more parts to sell to fund repairs.

That and olight flashlights. Too many of them things.

It only takes time and money my friend, time and money.
A word of warning to you and everybody, The adjustment screw/nut on the top of the sector shaft is for setting preload only. While it is possible to remove some free play due to wear on the teeth, be VERY careful. To tight and the steering might stick one way or the other, trust me I know, been there done that! Almost ditched the car.
!/8 turn ought not to be a problem, but no more imho.
While I have no experience with them, the guys here seem to think RedHead is a good company to buy a new or rebuilt PS box.

 

[rcadd1ct]

It only takes time and money my friend, time and money.
A word of warning to you and everybody, The adjustment screw/nut on the top of the sector shaft is for setting preload only. While it is possible to remove some free play due to wear on the teeth, be VERY careful. To tight and the steering might stick one way or the other, trust me I know, been there done that! Almost ditched the car.
!/8 turn ought not to be a problem, but no more imho.
While I have no experience with them, the guys here seem to think RedHead is a good company to buy a new or rebuilt PS box.

Yes I watched a free videos on adjustment and went to tight, then backed off to original setting.

Then started over adjusting a very small amount and retesting.

I have -4.5 caster so it has a STRONG desire to return to center.

 

[Stanglover]

Yes I watched a free videos on adjustment and went to tight, then backed off to original setting.

Then started over adjusting a very small amount and retesting.

I have -4.5 caster so it has a STRONG desire to return to center.

That sounds good.
I was thinking of increasing the caster on mine from 3 degrees to 4.5, BUT without changing the UCL's my "guy" think it would put too much strain on the components and he advised against shimming, but would do it if I really wanted to do that. I'm on the fence.

 

[Bentworker]

Yes I watched a free videos on adjustment and went to tight, then backed off to original setting.

Then started over adjusting a very small amount and retesting.

I have -4.5 caster so it has a STRONG desire to return to center.

You have negative caster?

 

[Stanglover]

You have negative caster?

Oops, I missed that. Assuming positive caster, which is what I'm sure he meant to write.

 

[rcadd1ct]

That sounds good.
I was thinking of increasing the caster on mine from 3 degrees to 4.5, BUT without changing the UCL's my "guy" think it would put too much strain on the components and he advised against shimming, but would do it if I really wanted to do that. I'm on the fence.

Ya I went global west upper a arms with the Shelby drop and 3 degrees of caster built in.

 

[rcadd1ct]

You have negative caster?

Sorry + castor

-.75 camber

 

[rcadd1ct]

Quick ratio lares box coming.

So tired of stuff leaking.

Decided to sell my Ducati before it gets hot here. Haven’t ridden in for two years

Weeeeeee

 

[California 72]

Not to rain on the Lares parade but, we went thru heck and back with the Lares products. I say products, since we purchased the original replacement thru BuyAutoParts.com. Ultimately, their customer service was outstanding in every way.

The only trouble is what was sent out from their warehouse. We went round the block a few times with this and after 3 attempts, BAP allowed us to get a refund and keep the last box sent as a replacement for the original core removed from the car. Their C.S. was outstanding and handled thing very quickly, without any delay.

FYI, the issues with replacements were the condition sent. Missing packing oil, coated in packing oil or contaminated oil leaking from the steering box. To avoid extra work, if you run into anything like we did, just know we ended up using the very first box sent to us as a core for the current box. I'm not certain what it's like to deal with Lares directly but as I explained above, BAP did everything they could, and then some, to help us even when we decided to not use the product they sold.

That said, we decided on the RedHead box. Unfortunately, the car is currently on jack-stands so no way to determine anything past the engine running bleed-out. One difference that was noticed during this part, the wheel felt smoother while being turned. The first box had a slightly bumpy feel and from what we could tell, as well as comments in my posts, that was caused by the box being over tightened by Lares.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Not to rain on the Lares parade but, we went thru heck and back with the Lares products. I say products, since we purchased the original replacement thru BuyAutoParts.com. Ultimately, their customer service was outstanding in every way.

The only trouble is what was sent out from their warehouse. We went round the block a few times with this and after 3 attempts, BAP allowed us to get a refund and keep the last box sent as a replacement for the original core removed from the car. Their C.S. was outstanding and handled thing very quickly, without any delay.

FYI, the issues with replacements were the condition sent. Missing packing oil, coated in packing oil or contaminated oil leaking from the steering box. To avoid extra work, if you run into anything like we did, just know we ended up using the very first box sent to us as a core for the current box. I'm not certain what it's like to deal with Lares directly but as I explained above, BAP did everything they could, and then some, to help us even when we decided to not use the product they sold.

That said, we decided on the RedHead box. Unfortunately, the car is currently on jack-stands so no way to determine anything past the engine running bleed-out. One difference that was noticed during this part, the wheel felt smoother while being turned. The first box had a slightly bumpy feel and from what we could tell, as well as comments in my posts, that was caused by the box being over tightened by Lares.

I got the new quick version from RockAuto.

No exchange/ core

Decided to pull my engine to fix oil leaks.

Now waiting on parts for wife’s car so stalled at the moment