Assuming no one touched my factory 73 351C 4 speed set up. Would mine have come with the 164 or 157?
Last edited by a moderator:
Did my car come with a 164 tooth flywheel
- Thread starter 73' mach 1
- Start date
Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Messages
- 4,765
- Reaction score
- 103
- Location
- Nashville, Tennessee
- My Car
- 1973 Q code Mach 1
164 tooth
Ok, so I'm running into the bell housing issue. I'm still getting all my TKO conversion stuff together and I'm not crazy about using a spacer on my current bell housing. So it looks like I either buck up for the quick time or Lakewood or change the flywheel to a 157. I don't have the power to justify a steel bell housing but piece of mind doesn't hurt either, plus I will have more power down the road. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to one flywheel vs the other.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,348
- Reaction score
- 209
- Location
- Iowa
- My Car
- 1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2v
You can use an 11" clutch on the 164 tooth flywheel not on the 157 tooth. Also there seems to be more options for the 164 tooth with the 28 oz weight than there is for the 157 tooth.
red351
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2013
- Messages
- 270
- Reaction score
- 11
- Location
- Carlisle PA
- My Car
- 72 mach 4sp PS AC PBdisc ramair started restoration in 1995 to 1999
Stock style starter will not fit on a 157t bell because it hits the pan rail on the clevelands
Ok, so it seems best to just get the better bell housing, 11" clutch and keep everything else the same.
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2012
- Messages
- 4,765
- Reaction score
- 103
- Location
- Nashville, Tennessee
- My Car
- 1973 Q code Mach 1
Nah, go with the 157, it is always fun to watch others suffer. 
Chris, here's what you need and a few tips...
The only bellhousing available. Not available from QuickTime. I'm sure.
Bellhousing ground slightly to clear FPA left side header.
Bellhousing opening opened 1" in the forward direction for clutch arm travel. You HAVE TO USE the stock clutch arm. It will need to be modified for clearance.
Stock clutch arm "V" notched, then notch bent to close, then welded. This gives you the angle change to clear FPA header. (note pic above)
Z-bar, bellhousing side, mount must also be modded. Here's a few pics to show what we did...
American Powertrain sent me the wrong crossmember two times. Here's what you need from them...apparently they sit right next to each other on their shelves and are easily mistaken. Check your box before install day.
Remember to seal your tranny end of the speedo cable a few weeks prior to it's install with a good urethane sealant where the black plastic sheath enters into the tranny end metal piece. This will leak if not sealed this way and you won't get a good seal AFTER the tranny fluid gets into the interface you will be trying to seal...fair warning...
I'll drop my car off tomorrow night for the detail...psyched!!!
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Eric, did you do these mods or did JD's? I emailed AP about the x member and bell housing. I'm surprised quick time doesn't make one? Anyway, I'm excited for you to see the difference in your car after the detail!
AP is saying this is the one for our cars....
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8425761-bell-housing-for-ford-289-302-5-0-351-c-w-to-tko-and-t5-sfi-rated.html
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8425761-bell-housing-for-ford-289-302-5-0-351-c-w-to-tko-and-t5-sfi-rated.html
Quicktime does not make a bellhousing for a 164 tooth flywheel. American Powertrain does not know that (even though they were informed of this, clearly, last summer) and apparently does not care enough ,about you, to prevent them from making the same mistake. They have no problem with sending the wrong parts.
Trust me.
Last edited by a moderator:
Roger that.
Marcello Merrone @ JD's did the bellhousing, clutch arm and Z-bar mount mods. He is very talented. I figured out the compatibility issues and found what was needed. That was a real pain in the a** because the "experts" @ APT did not know the issues regarding 157/164 tooth flywheel and the non-availability to put a 164 in a QT bellhousing...finally figured out Lakewood was the way to go with the 164. APT also sent the wrong crossmember, atleast, two (2) times...it might have been three. That's why I made up that comparison photo of the two in the post above. The dripping speedo line was also another pita...apparently this is pretty common, if you research it. Sealing the second one, (see post above) APT sent me, cured the problem.
Last edited by a moderator:
4mm
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2012
- Messages
- 447
- Reaction score
- 3
- Location
- S. TX
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang 351C 4V Fastback
^^Yes but if I recall correctly the QT bell will require a 10.5" clutch setup. Since it is spun the tolerances should be much better than the stamped Lakewood bell. I've owned both. The QT is a really nice piece.
Yes, if you want a QT bell you must convert to a 157 tooth flywheel and the smaller 10 1/2" clutch. The QT bell is a nice piece. The QT is pretty significantly more bucks too. I resurfaced my 11" flywheel and went with the Lakewood which is more than I'll probably ever need as it's definitely much safer than the stock setup.
Last edited by a moderator:
If I'm only looking at the 400RWHP long term and I don't do 5K clutch dumps can I just use the spacer? I'm wondering if I'd have to do any of those mods if I just add the spacer? I understand the safety part but if I'm not making crazy power and dumping the clutch at high RPM's can I get away with the spacer?
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,348
- Reaction score
- 209
- Location
- Iowa
- My Car
- 1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2v
If that is the case do you really need the 11" clutch? would you be better off with the 157 tooth and a gear reduction starter and good quality 10.5" clutch. I just did a T5 on my 73. Used the stock T5 bell with a billet steel 157 tooth flywheel and a LUK clutch. Works fantastic! I used the MDL pedal and cable set up I was switch from an FMX.
