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@Vinnie

[the hood already looks better without it]

Currently it's really modern abstract art for sure :)

 

@NOT A T5

[You broke up with Art?]

I'm working hard to have a fresh new canvas! I have some ideas about the graphics I will put on the car at some point, pretty sure it will not again be a pale copy of Boris Vallejo's work. I surely want to have something 7173's mach1ish but would really want to be a tad more creative/personal than just factory look. Nothing wild. I'm not doing an original restoration but I try to respect the car spirit and parts, I think the exterior should tell the same story.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Not 71 related, but too happy to keep it for me! :)   The 73 has its new jacket on! Yeeehaaah! It took only decades to get to this point :) Hard to catch the 2 green metallic as they are in real u

After that you mentioned it, vaguely recalling this claim. As Koni is/was a Dutch company (their headquarters are here), I went looking... after 1/2 hour going from blablawerethebestblabla screens to

It's weekend and it's again a dog weather. But as my 73's brakes parts are still somewhere above the Atlantic I don't care as I'll be busy inside on my 71's apron!   I've received last

Posted Images

Cold just above freeze point during day and wet.

I hate this weather, even more than normal, as low temp reduced my paint remover effect to near zero.

Already less effective than the good ones (prohibited here for environment reasons), like Aircraft remover,

It managed only to soften the paint a bit (on the pict bellow left, its one layer peeling off a bit after days of application)

 

saturday.jpg

So spend saturday afternoon, continuing the tedious removal of the many layers... Even found an extra primer layer that did not react at all where the art work was, great needed the extra work...pffff.

 

eventually.jpg

Felt as a never ending story, but eventually this morning I got to see the entire metal. Finally!

Rest of the day was about clearing details, like the small regions at the scoops, removing the old red primer...

 

Gave the garage a good cleaning. Placed the hood outside and finished the corners on the back and the front lip alternating the sides. That's when you value electric tools :)

 

After a final cleanup and an heat gun session to have the metal bits warmer.

It was time to prep the primer.

 

epoxy-1.jpg

With an ambient temp inside at just the minimum requirements for the epoxy. I've sprayed in 4 layers and used the heat gun from a distance in between to ensure the hood/primer would not get too cold.

 

epoxy-2.jpg

Using the heat gun and a small heater for a while, not only garage temp was now few degrees above minimum, but saw the epoxy was already hard to the touch after 20 minutes.

 

epoxy-3.jpg

So much work to get all out and before you know it, its under a thick layer again :)

 

Really happy the entire hood is now clean, protected in and out. It's been a very long journey to get there for sure.

What needs to be done next, like bits of bondo and filler primer should be a piece of cake. Will see soon enough. At least I can wait till temp goes up so I can work outside now.

No worries about rust anymore! Yeah!

 

to be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Way too cold to get up early and sooo no fun to be outside,

I pushed myself to get something done and as the hood takes all the room into the garage... choice was quickly made: back to the hood.

 

sandingsaturday.jpg

While the epoxy primer was looking good on both sides, I spend time to sand it all to ensure the filler primer would have a good surface to stick onto, and also needed to apply a little bondo to level an ancient dent repair.

As I can't have dust inside and it was dry on Saturday, I've enjoyed sanding by hand at near freeze point for hours. I prefer feel the shape with my hands while sanding rather than using electric tools, especially to correct a damage place.

 

sandingandsanding.jpg

Today was no different, as I've noticed some minor details on the repair that were not ok to my eyes, so I've reapplied a thin layer of bondo and reduced the thickness to a minimum again. It was then time to sand a bit finer and degrease/remove the dust.

 

back.jpg

With the heater on most of the day, temp was just ok to spray inside. Added a tad more hardener than i usually would do, and because the epoxy was really looking very smooth everywhere, prepped the paint with more solvant to allow me to alternate both sides of the hood without the need to charge too much.

 

Few minutes later, the hood had lost its brownish yellow jacket for a light greyish one. Both sides are now under a nice layer that I've helped a bit to dry with the heat gun from a distance.

 

repairok.jpg

Very happy about how the once rusty damaged misery looking corner turned out. I was expecting the need to reapply bits more bondo.

Using a light to inspect the corner I could not detect any place where the shape was not looking natural. I guess water sanding will reveal that better next weekend but for now it looks like very fine sanding should do the trick.

 

details.jpg

Also glad to see the extra efforts (in the cold) put into reducing the epoxy thickness a bit to enhance the sharp edges payed off too.

The shapes are definitely there despite the relative thickness of the primers. Not too blended.

 

details2.jpg

All with all, looks like the hood adventure is coming to an end!

They say the more efforts you put in a paint job the nicer it will look. If I count the calories burned in that hood I should get a kickass one :)

 

Next weekend, I'll prolly apply a green layer on the inside. The outside will wait for a dust free warm paint booth...

and if all goes well, I could even mark the entire hood as done and reclaim my garage for the other parts waiting! :)

 

to be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Whouahhh what a job! If you are interested, as you look like to love to do them, I have the hood from the Mach 1 to be done :)

I know how it's hard to work on it specially when you are alone, heavy and big. But it's good for your body isn't it?

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Still in hoodland but for the last time! At least, not till i come back to it in a warm dust free paint booth.

Goal today was to paint the underside, and have the top primer ready for later.

 

water-sanding.jpg

So enjoyed wet sanding outside. As it's low temp, windy and rainy, it was big fun again.

The rain had a positive side tho, the surface kept wet longer helped to see potential flaws.

 

sanded.jpg

Once the top was done, I've really hated the fact that the hood has two sides :)

But went on and on using wet 400 and 600 and by the time the sun went down. I was finally done.

 

painted1.jpg

After a hot drying session, dust removal and degreasing. Applied the green and a good layer of clear coat. Very hard to take a pict of the colour inside with orange reflecting on it. There are few flaws from the press/shaping process on the metal that are now revealed with the shine. It crossed my mind to stop and go back to bondo/sand these, as I know once up side down on the car no light will hit it like this ever again. So I've resisted! :)

 

painted.jpg

The paint is a dark green similar to the original Ivy Green, bits darker, with tiny metallic particles creating nice green to almost black regions. That should give me the classy look I'm after. It is not the most easy paint to spray to get it even, especially standing like this. Ideally I would have loved painting it layed horizontally, Not having enough space for that, I had to be careful to not charge too much and get runners. In the end, I saw I could have charged bit more clear coat. So I think, I'll spray another layer later on.

 

For now: I'm finally done with this hood! Yeah!

Tomorrow, I'm gonna pack this big baby into soft plastics so it can wait dust free for the hinges/latch etc.. and start clean the huge mess in the garage.

Not sure yet who's gonna be my next victim. As it's wet and cold, I need something that does not need be painted, as least not right away...

 

To be continued.

 

@manu Mach1

[ Whouahhh what a job! If you are interested...]

Non merci! Got a hood overdosis at the moment! :)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Very nice indeed. I wish I had your energy.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Fabulous work Fabrice, absolutely fabulous!

Thanks @jpaz. Anybody could do this you know. The only hard part is actually doing it! :)

 

Very nice indeed. I wish I had your energy.

Well, I must say I've regained energy that was lost doing these dirty jobs. Lost 10 pounds/5kgs in past months and I feel much better.

 

packed.jpg

But today, forced by the miserable pouring weather, I've played it "energy safe" :). Clean up the mess (still lots to do).

Hood is now in hibernation waiting for future sunny days..

 

Easy forgotten, the hood with its fully functional ram air has plenty hardware and I'm not planning to place back rusty bolts and screws,

so went back to "old guy" activities: cooking bolts!

After a good degreasing and quick brushing session, all the ram air screws, latch, scoop hardware etc... went into a bath.

cookin.jpg

 

After just few minutes, lots of bubbles and started look much better. As all was kinda greasy/dirty and corrosion not that far, they should be cooked by tomorrow..

 

To be continued..

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Miserable weather, rain, wind...

Time for a "little things" weekend!

 

hood-hardware.jpg

First finished my hood hardware, latch, scoops fasteners, Ram-air...

You know, the usual budget eaters if you order them new.

They came out bath pretty ok. I''ll prolly paint a few when temp will be higher.

 

hood-hardware2.jpg

Then cleaned up another set of "nobody cares" parts: The winshield washer nozzles.

I've kept the existing tubes for now as I'm going to bring them with me as example next time I visit my fav "winshield washer nozzles tube shop"! :) I recall, that for the 73, it wasn't that easy to find something similar. I've just cleaned them, I''ll prolly spray a thin layer on them as well.

 

vac-switch.jpg

Then gave some love to that relatively hard to find original 429 part.

This original Mustang thingy alien to most 71-73 owners is for many (me included) the kind of part near an engine that you might see but do not look at. It's just there, Its just an original thingy. Good enuff.

 

Well thanks to my good friend @Secluf, I know now that Its a vaccum operated coolant valve. With hot water running through the heater core all the time and being in such close proximity to the AC evaporator core, this valve helps for a better cooling, is controlled by the "Mode" switch" on the ac control. The vacuum signal closes the valve shutting off the hot water flow. At higher rpm, in combo with the "s" shaped hose behind it to the core its also preventing pressure damage to the eater core often occuring on BB AC cars.

 

The above lines are a shameless digest rewrite of Steve's detailed answer.

Short story: I'm gonna place this piece of rocket science back but not before I give it a massage!

 

vac-switch-clean-paint.jpg

First started suck on it to test if it was working (Dear Santa, I really need a handheld vaccum gauge/pump...)

After a good cleaning and an acid bath (why did they use material that can rust on one side only??)

The actuator and the valve inside were not the most easy places to be reached, but when there's love there's a will.

Even primed and painted the bare metal side after its bath to prevent further corrosion.

 

vac-switch-polished.jpg

After some elbow oil was used, I've ended up with a nice bling bling version of the once dirty/corroded one (see above)

 

radiator.jpg

Because I do save quite a lot by restoring parts, my piggy was fat enough to be sacrificed for a radiator. The car came mostly complete, unfortunately: no radiator, no fan shroud. Lost in France 20+ years ago. Problem is that when you need a radiator for a 429, like if the metal required is super rare, the pieces you find with original specs are (ridiculously) expensive. With prices in range of $600-800, this means a 1k euros easy once at my door. I made a selection of radiators earlier and was about to order a much cheaper aluminium version when for some weird search reason, I came across another page displaying a new brass copper repop with exact same sizes as the original and made for a 71 429 Mustang, direct fit, with the trans cooler for the extraordinary price of $69!! I thought it was a mistake, I would order and get back a mail telling me they forgot a zero. But no, it was the right price and ordered it right away. Even added two extra's to the list. All arrived here just under 200 euros. Not even the US price for any other that I've found capable to cool down this engine.

 

radiator2.jpg

Looked in details this made in canada baby today, welds etc: pretty ok! Fittings for the shroud and trans lines are also provided.

I'll know for sure once in use, but for now, I very happy to have it, and I can also remove the rad from my "to be found" list.

 

Time to drop a few things in bath and call it a day.

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Fabrice, as we had talked about earlier, that is a power buy. I've  seen the Spectra Premium Cu-381 sell for over $250.00  That One looks about as close to the original Modine as the $600.00-800.00 radiators I have seen from various vendors.

Be sure to retest the 18495 valve after it has set for a while. That way you can make sure the vacuum diaphragm wasn't affected by the cooking process. (I do have a "Fix")

And until Santa brings you a vacuum pump, you will still have to vacuum test things the old fashioned way.....just go in your garage so your neighbors can't see what you are doing!  :whistling:

Steve

 

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

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That is some really quality work Fabrice and to answer the question about where you're getting your energy from to do all this, it is obvious...Dr OETKER Pizza!  :P

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!

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@NOT A T5

[That is some really quality work Fabrice and to answer the question about where you're getting your energy from to do all this, it is obvious...Dr OETKER Pizza! ]

Thx. Ahahaha, well, they are soft and not too thick, talking about the box around them ! Ideal to cast shapes for patches! :)

 

@Secluff

[be sure to retest the 18495 valve after it has set for a while. That way you can make sure the vacuum diaphragm wasn't affected by the cooking process. (I do have a "Fix")]

The diaphragm and its canister were not exposed to the acid. Just elbow oil :) The fix would be some "baby powder" like for rubber?

 

[That One looks about as close to the original Modine as the $600.00-800.00 radiators I have seen from various vendors.]

I've already compared the shape to some "original repops" and they look alike. There might be a diff in the core, where some offer a more dense mesh to help dissipate more heat, but this option comes at an additional cost above the already spicy price. So, yes, I'm very happy with that one and I'm sure it'll do just fine.

 

btw got another answer about the knob: Unlike in the Ford kit, there is no guide provided to drill the old broken one.

The casting isn't really wow, but where it looks bit distorted will be behind the big ring, so should do fine. Better to have one than nothing.

 

knob.jpg

 

If anyone has tips on how to remove/drill the old broken bit of the knob...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Here are some basic instructions

https://www.hunker.com/13415526/how-to-extract-small-broken-screws

 

In addition to what the article recommends left-hand (reversed) drill bits can bite in enough to remove them

https://www.amazon.com/slp/left-hand-drill-bits/q3k8qjv9mbea8ys

 

There are also mini-screw extractors

https://www.micromark.com/Mini-Extractor-Screwdriver-Set

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Here are some basic instructions

https://www.hunker.com/13415526/how-to-extract-small-broken-screws

 

In addition to what the article recommends left-hand (reversed) drill bits can bite in enough to remove them

https://www.amazon.com/slp/left-hand-drill-bits/q3k8qjv9mbea8ys

 

There are also mini-screw extractors

https://www.micromark.com/Mini-Extractor-Screwdriver-Set

 

Thx Don,

I have most I need in house but for bigger boys, not for this tiny size..

I like these mini extractors, looking very handy, the kind of tool you need once every 10 years tho :)

Will try find one of these here.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Take a look at this thread I found. Others have had the same problem. Some, or all, of the OEMs may not have threads on them.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-anyone-fixed-a-broken-remote-mirror-knob?

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Still cold, under freeze point. Another weekend where I'm not gonna be able to paint anything,

So I went back to cleanup and de-rust.

 

inspection-plate.jpg

Did some small hardware, like this trans inspection plate that was having some rust, not much, but where there was some, it was deep enough to need a bath. Rust free after 2 days. I'll finish brush/polish it tomorow.

 

hinges-dirty.jpg

I went back to the hinges that were painted with 2 layers of blue. There was still work to be done to remove the paint. As I know my paint remover doesn't work at all when temp is low, I've removed by hand what was left over. The old paint wasn't really hard to get rid of but hard to be reached, so removed the springs to access hidden places.

I'm already looking forward placing them back, expecting some fun moments :)

 

play.jpg

I often miss a way to sandblast at home, today I've also regretted not having an hydraulic press.

Tried to squeeze the rivets to compensate some play with my small vice. Helped a bit, but that's about it. I'd need some serious muscle to get rid of it completely. Oh well, at least I tried :)

 

hinges-clean.jpg

After somewhat tedious work, I got them to the point they both started to look ok.

Still in bath for the nite, I'll finish them tomorrow.

 

Then I was really too cold to stay in the garage...

 

@don,

Thx Don, I think I'll look at this detail when it will be warmer, prolly when I'll remove the interior.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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They look good. What are you going to finish the springs with?

 

Did you get the mirror remote knob repaired?

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Great work as usual Fabrice especially your epic hood effort!

Will be repairing the aftermarket hood I have with the usual bow in it and removing most of the e-coat before priming

Great deal you got on your radiator, I paid about $900AUD for a custom radiator but for that price I would have bought 2 or 3!

Hearing you talk about the cold weather brings me back to my time in the Netherlands Dec 99/Jan 00 so I can understand why it is difficult to paint

I have the opposite problem this weekend as although it is summer we have thunderstorms around and humidity is too high for painting

Wouldn't we all like a climate controlled spray booth!

P1030238.jpg
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They look good. What are you going to finish the springs with?

 

Did you get the mirror remote knob repaired?

 

I don't know yet. I was thinking of letting white chroom (mat grey) the hinges as on my 73 or paint them, and let the springs be coated. At first I wanted all coated, but because the springs need to be under tension to be coated properly en the hinges may break the coating or offer too much resistance. I'm simply not sure yet. I may end up painting them but need to find to "elastic" paint. Really not sure. For now, its all about stop the corrosion and clean they up. I might even have done this for nothing if I go the white chrome way as they will bath them first :)

If you have tips or ideas, please shoot.

 

[Did you get the mirror remote knob repaired?]

As I wrote, it was too cold to start on this. I'll prolly do it once weather is bits warmer. (was -2 today)

 

Great work as usual Fabrice especially your epic hood effort!

Will be repairing the aftermarket hood I have with the usual bow in it and removing most of the e-coat before priming

Great deal you got on your radiator, I paid about $900AUD for a custom radiator but for that price I would have bought 2 or 3!

Hearing you talk about the cold weather brings me back to my time in the Netherlands Dec 99/Jan 00 so I can understand why it is difficult to paint

I have the opposite problem this weekend as although it is summer we have thunderstorms around and humidity is too high for painting

Wouldn't we all like a climate controlled spray booth!

 

thx, yes the radiator was really a good deal. Very rare. I was expecting to pay much more just like you, so Piggy goes now for an EFI with an head start :)

 

[Wouldn't we all like a climate controlled spray booth!]

Man, a spacy garage and a spray booth... heaven! :)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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I believe David had some suggestions in some of his posts, about parkerizing (phosphate coatings). I don't have any other suggestions, I thought that as innovative as you are you may have come up with something interesting. Acquiring some of the chemicals needed may be difficult.

 

If you're thinking about chrome plating, black chrome is also a possibility, it can be either shiny or dull.

 

Yeah, it's not fun working in the cold, really adds to the difficulty, can lead to hasty decisions, which can be costly or dangerous.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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hinges-clean.jpg

Finished the cleaning of the hinges and looking back at them before, I'm glad both paint layers and rust are gone. Now need to find a plating company and see what they could do to them for a good long lasting solution... especially the springs.

 

@Don C

In paralel, I'm also looking a nickel plating. From some sources I've red/viewed, I might give that a try. Its one affordable solution, something I could use on many other items and doesn't require dangerous chemicals or the use of high current. In fact I saw that best results were obtained between 3 and 5 volts, also the solution doesn't require to be kept at "high" temperature like chrome does. Most of all, it doesn't need much more space than a bucket.

 

noooo.jpg

Because my hood was taking all the space I had left in the garage, I did not had yet a chance to look in detail at the floor pan I've received a few weeks back. From the opening, it was looking ok. My garage is dry, expected it to be fine.

Busy making place, I wanted take a closer look before store it on my attic for next year... got the bad surprise to discover it was starting to rust and by the look of it it was already corroded before I got it for sure. On some location rust started to become serious.

 

Bit mad, as I can't suffer the sight of rust. I mean, I don't want to replace a rusty floor by another one even if less rusted.... pfff

So Instead of cleaning other parts, spend time restoring something supposed to be new..

 

oiled.jpg

Managed to remove all the rust, at some place it was starting to be become more than just light rust. I was on time, and got it as I should have received it. Now protected with an oil film it can wait for better days without any chance of corrosion. I also saw it got damaged during storage/transport and that I'll need to massage it back into shape, nothing serious and will dolly that back when i'll install it.

 

It was a good buy from a european/tax point of view and its now restored, so I'll forget quickly about the lost hours. But I really can't understand how you as a company can ship something in this shape with no second thoughts...

That's probably the naive me expecting the world to be round :)

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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You can also nickel plate without using any electricity, called electroless plating

https://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/electroless-plating-kits.html

 

Electroless plating is supposed to give better results on irregular surfaces, like the hood hinges and springs. My concern would be the pivots fusing and the spring coils fusing together.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Worked on the 73 today. I want it on the road and I need the space to start do serious work on the 71...

Among the todo, I've finally fixed the power windows that were not working for a long while. This thread is for the 71, but thought I'd post this, as the electrics are the same/very similar for a 71, 72 or 73 with PW.

 

After some testing done a while ago, found out the power windows relay was defect. It's hidden in engine bay next to the brakes master cylinder(73) or under dash on the column(71). The kind of relay Ford used is not to be found here. They are online $20 to $50 repro or more expensive NOS ( $150 to $250).

I might one day order an "original" one as part of a bigger order, for now shipping+tax were making this relay a luxury item. Santa already having tough days, I've instead replaced it with a regular 12v/40A 4 slots that you can buy for $2 to $5. The line has a 20A fuse, so even a more common 30A would do just fine. Only work required is to add a ground wire vs the ground that is the metal casing of the relay on the original.

In case you'd ever need/want to do the same, here's the way you can connect.

(using the 73 wire colours).

 

powerrelayalternative.jpg

 

thx @Don C

Will look in details at this. I need calculate the credits (nickel ratio) required for the springs... Surely looks interesting for small parts.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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If you do try plating them at home, I would come up with a way to stretch them out some so the coils on the springs aren't touching. I haven't thought if a way to keep the hinge pivot rivets from getting plated and freezing them. I haven't tried looking online to see if anyone else has faced the same situation.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I know how you like cooking at home, so I thought I would pass this along to you, how to cook up your own nickel plating solution at home:

https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Quality-and-safe-Nickel-Plating/

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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