Wooowoooah ...:s my electronic life comes to haunt me in these forums ... I cant even get time off at weekends..... eeek !
... OK down to work then.
Life here is simple.
A motor (or motors) need sufficient energy to work. they are voltage controlled devices that sap more current the harder their work becomes. Check with Multi meter you are getting 12v or more to motor without loss over the wiring harness. The drive voltage has to go a long way from battery ... wiring connections could have copper oxide layer on them preventing good current draw.
If the power is served by a switch or relay -- check the contacts are not covered in carbon
Now work is measured in Watts. or heat -- are the motors getting significantly hot?
if a motor is getting all 12 of its volts and getting super hot... it may have forces acting against the motor that shouldn't be there... stiff components that should be free to move. (stiff components are only for wives and girlfriendsto slurp upon)
Or - the motor itself is aged ... the magnet assembly may have lost some magnetic force ... the brushes to the armature could have corroded - the gaps on the armature contacts could be caked in carbon.
Most electric motors from this era are made in the bronze age of motor design... can be, with care, stripped down and checked internally.
If the brushes or armature pads are worn away -- it's replacement time -- if they are just filthy (often happens) a good switch cleaner (IPA alcohol) and very very fine brass bristle brush will get those connections clean again. Main bearing may need some lube ( a drop from the end of your dipstick will be enough) .. when reassembling make sure everything moves freely. Often when motors have to push/pull something bigger than they are capable of (this is how motors move fat bodies in seats in modern cars ) - they have gear ratio's to make their operation easier. - make sure those gears are without mechanical stiffness or impedance. (If you need to know about stiffness in areas that are tight...ask the wife...she may have lube :whistling: )
I hope some of this helps - Get a beer and go through wiring diagrams in the "Mustang Data" vault in these forums -- they will help identify the electrical path.
I have a couple PW cars. The front motors and repair kits are easy to come by. The rear Pancake motors are very difficult to locate working or not working. Be very careful when taking apart to clean and follow the instructions from the WCCC site. I use the Lucas Red N Tacky #2 grease in window motors, window tracks and anything related to friction on the windows. Also works great in the wiper motor and gear box.
You can get new brushes for the rear motors so replace them while inside go slow on taking apart sometimes the rust has gone crazy might require some sand or glass bead blasting of the case. Be very careful with all the internals there are no replacements.
Of course Cougar are the same and coupe, convertible and fastback are all the same motor. The switches are different on the 73 and of course the bezels on the 71 72 have very fragile clips retaining them. DO NOT JUST PULL ON A 71 - 72 BEZEL TO REMOVE. You have to slide a thin tool under the bezel from each side to release the clips.
For me, it's the front passenger window. I'm hoping it's as simple as worn-out bushings, a $7 part replacement. As soon as the heat lifts (probably September) I can get back to this and see if that was the problem for me.
Thank you. I don't think so in my case. It is just veeeerrrrrrrrryyyyyyyy sllllloooooooowwwwwwwww. And that rear motor is very odd. Tiny. No replacements that I can find.
k you.
to slurp upon)
