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If you saw my lifter bushing threads, you might know I am building a Model A Tudor

Not sure if anyone would like to follow a build thread on the chassis.  I have a frame built and am getting ready to start fitting a 1990 Corvette front and rear suspension this fall.

The intention is to run a 351 with a Torino Toploader and to use the corvette steering column and wheels. (If I can rewire the column...)

I stripped the corvette suspension out last night and will be getting started soon.

Roofline is chopped, roof panel has been created out of a van roof so it is not open anymore. I have hood parts, but doubt I will be able to use them.

meu40whCvxziHcf7vXZGW0pg8JGAag5rjwmJW5xexO7iEmvlRp40252mJ_zdp_TJwnyNb63l5d2RDS95K-a7MgtHxDAKpqhad_vioUYI0FRPKGAmrW2xLfffjJOdTEizyj9_pHdQD92bWaNuq18FD_EPE3itU5UPVDv0pJuG-2usM5G4TvCgWwhG5KK_F1hEnvcYarlryByxf3eRHDt0X3zr42rNCfTqrkMLspfoV5CWkjCpQlR4ua8SonSDhMdPTONdg4--mmv2ejuXyYA-RzM5porVlQ7Jmm1Xo7Gdbm6NaMC_bTgTUSPEHMqliSgw0jc_JVgxhqStcjAOGvtlYRows89oPDypaFRBQi3E5DnonuYDJPWnCexvP40idJtDf8sY3WxxvKJSLeX1k5b14hEyPlXOKYOe25nxuyfNasuJQeZK-w51Si1CoMeHkyIdtakMz2irjcSIGyUlJsmBX-EklMQiPMsJgjLiuV9oUzdKrHdVMKGveofhjsBGvpPrezutZABpI31DQGzWZDtGbwlBWLzVWzuzX3XUeUtCdawyhl_0xxi3RMnlJym6p_EgWkiTZWnlBJHtXOkIg5v4HVT6fsIdi01aZlphjl8LCZ2eaAcchl4ouqH91gNXcbtnO7rZ9XH9JFIGlboEIalN6yF_1yi7o4xkNGwtZfOUbcLQovTtBniOIxPb_Si7=w1003-h752-no?authuser=0

 

Engine in photo is for mock up.

 

Let me know if you would find this build worth watching.   PS I'm fairly sure the C4 suspension would also fit our cars and the cars relative weight is in the same ballpark... just food for thought

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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1936-55 Chevy PU (Incl 1st Series 55) – 88-96 Corvette Rear Suspension  Installation Kit – Flat Out Engineering

This is how I intend to mount the rear, though I will fabricate my own brackets and try and keep the sway bar and everything will be welded not bolted to the frame.

 

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I don't see the above picture, but respect man! Restoring/modifying 50 years old cars is hard enough for me!
I surely would enjoy to follow your thread! Good luck!

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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Thank you.  Modification is much easier than restoration.  No need for perfection or using hard to find parts.  Look forward to sharing more pics, sorry you cannot see this one, cause the work on the body so far is nothing short of amazing.

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Having done quite a few scratch built frame cars both with and without a frame jig, I would suggest bolting the complete suspension as shown until you have a complete roller. Only after you have measured, mounted, shimmed, twisted , massaged, tweaked and aligned,  should you do final welding. It's alot easier to un-bolt than un-weld.

This is an almost 100 year old frame of questionable dimensional accuracy when built.

We had a '28 Tudor that my Grandfather bought new in the family for a long time. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

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I have a new jig built frame of rectangular tubing tapered to mimic the frame horns in the front. I've done a retrofit of a c4 into a 56 ford, so measuring 100 times before the welding is de rigueur

I haven't installed a c4 rear suspension, but it looks pretty straight forward.

 

My progress will be slow as I keep it at a buddys shop that is a hour round trip, so I rarely work on it more than 2 days a week

 

 

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Some progress, but no pictures yet.  Cleaned the shop enough to move the body off the frame and stand it on it's nose.  Pulled the vette suspension last weekend, have looked it over, taken measurements and have a plan.  Next step is to strip the front suspension down to the cradle and start making it fit the frame.  Also tore the heads off of 2 351 engines-one looks good, the other looks like the block might clean up to .030 over.  I've got my engine built, but one stripped block will be for mock up, and one will go to the machinist to be checked out and prepared as a back up.

I'll try and take a picture or two on my next trip over to the shop

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Keep in mind if you weld brackets to the frame it creates huge stress risers. There is a reason they bolt and rivet tractor trailer chassis together. If they welded would never last even 100,000 miles. 
If you do weld you need to cut the ends of the brackets on curves or arch so it is not weld a straight line. After many years of helping design equipment for John Deere I learned a lot. Look at the spring shackles on Ford PU riveted not welded. The rear would fall out if welded. Ok for something with a short life like a race car but not durable or long lived. Also when you come to the end of the weld do not stop at the end of the bracket do a J going away from the bracket helps with stress. You can do hot rivets yourself and never have a worry.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Thank you for your observations.  I'll factor that into my design.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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