71 Mach1(Trans Am) 2" nose drop

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Is the spacer to keep the shock from bottoming out due to lowering? Or is it increased travel?
Yes,all of the above.It's also to keep the top of the shock body from hitting the mount.Not so much increased travel as restoring some of the lost travel.Moore also used spacers in 1/4'' and 3/8''.

 
The Watts box is now welded to the car,6 1/2 hours later.And it's still as straight as it was before I welded in.I had to shrink back down the sides of the frame a bit after.I might leave those as is or fuss with them more.I also welded the watts brackets to the rear,Now its ready to go back in the car to locate the pivot shaft.

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Thank you that's what I was thinking. Will it mount low on the plate? It looks like the left side attachment to the axle is fairly low. Is the pivot point what determines roll center on a watts? Sorry for the barrage of questions. 

 
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Thank you that's what I was thinking. Will it mount low on the plate? It looks like the left side attachment to the axle is fairly low. Is the pivot point what determines roll center on a watts? Sorry for the barrage of questions. 
Hello.Yes,the pivot shaft will mount low on the box.I just figured out where this evening.It will be 2 9/16'' from the bottom of the box to the center of the pivot.You have to find the roll center of the suspension to mount the pivot.Then transfer that measurement straight back to the box.The roll center determines the pivot point.

 
So here's the finished watts link.I have loved these cars my whole life,but in building this one I am learning more and more about just how different these cars are from the 70 and earlier cars.They pretty much just share the Mustang name and the control arms pretty much nothing else Mustang applies.When they redesigned the car that included the rear suspension also.It might not look it but it is different.The rear of the springs are mounted higher in the chassis thus lowering the rear of the car as compared to earlier Mustangs. This changes where the roll center is as compared to a 69/70 TA car.The roll center is where the pivot for the watts gets mounted. I checked and rechecked 20 odd times and kept getting the same location which is different than a 70 because it is a different car.I just had to be sure.So I even looked at the chassis measurements and sure enough,the frame rails a mounted higher in a 71-3 Mustang.All that being said,it's finished and works so on to the next thing.

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Impressive build! You have some serious fabrication skills!

Sorry if I missed it; Do you plan on racing in vintage races when complete?

I attended the Monterrey Historic races many years ago and recall being in awe of how the Trans Am cars were modified for track duty. To the point that the cars body was all that was recognizable. 

 
Impressive build! You have some serious fabrication skills!

Sorry if I missed it; Do you plan on racing in vintage races when complete?

I attended the Monterrey Historic races many years ago and recall being in awe of how the Trans Am cars were modified for track duty. To the point that the cars body was all that was recognizable. 
Hello,thanks for the compliment. Yes,the car is going vintage racing. I'm building for group 6 A/P, which is lots of big block cars, Camaros,Vettes,Cobras, that sort of stuff. My car is being built as a early 70s factory Trans Am Mustang, but with a Boss 429. I do also have most of the parts to build a Boss 302 engine which could easily be swapped in for the Trans Am class. They are still limited to 305 cid. 

 
Hello,thanks for the compliment. Yes,the car is going vintage racing. I'm building for group 6 A/P, which is lots of big block cars, Camaros,Vettes,Cobras, that sort of stuff. My car is being built as a early 70s factory Trans Am Mustang, but with a Boss 429. I do also have most of the parts to build a Boss 302 engine which could easily be swapped in for the Trans Am class. They are still limited to 305 cid. 
That is AWESOME!!

Reading about your build stirred some pleasant memories from the Laguna Seca racetrack many years ago. I got to see the Penske-Donahue Camaros. I met a guy who had the "best" job in the world (I thought at the time); he maintained and prepped vintage Trans Am Camaros (don't recall how many 2 or 3 maybe) for a guy that travelled the vintage race circuit. He always travelled ahead and had the cars ready for when his boss the driver showed up. His boss owned a big company which he was considered an employee of and received a salary, medical/dental and retirement. 

Sorry for the thread derail. Vintage Trans Am racing is the best racing. Wish I had the time, money and skills to be involved. If you ever make it out west to run your Mustang I'll volunteer for pit crew duty. I can turn a wrench.

 
I'm really glad that people like what I am doing. It's just me in a small workshop striving to put out the best possible end product.I really am trying very hard to have an end product that looks like Kar Kraft built it.That being said I have bushings.Rear sway bar bushings that you can't buy.I have a friend that is a machinist and works on turn of the century gas engines.I asked him if would like to make the bushings.So a week later I have nylon bushings for a 5/8 rear sway bar.

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Greetings.......These are the over rider traction bar mounts for the chassis and the axle.I made them out of 1/8'' and patterned them from a Shelby team car.They tie into the chassis at the rear torque boxes,The frame rails,and into the inner rockers.The holes are for 5/8'' heims.Next will be relocating the axle bump stops to the inside of the frame rails and notching the frame for the axle mounted traction bar mount.

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Hi again,upon the completion of another task I have some pictures. I have C-notched the frame over the axle.This car is going to be rather low and I do not want metal objects hitting other metal objects. I took inspiration from a 70 Bud Moore Mustang. I raised the frame height by 1 inch. Then the recess on the bottom is for traction bar mount clearance on the axle.That adds another 3/4 inch in height.And it is 1 inch deep.All the brackets and parts are made from 1/8 inch and all have a curve in them for added strength.When I raised the frame it left the shock crossmember hanging down 3/4 of an inch so I pie cut and sectioned the ends so it fit back up to the frame.

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