Various Engine/Underhood Details

Hey everyone,

I've been converting my restored 1971 mach to correct parts instead of the aftermarket. Future concourse shows would require the car to be correct as possible, so just wanted to ask if anyone has pictures of a concours engine compartment for 351-4v M code without ram air

thanks

Hey everyone,

I've been converting my restored 1971 mach to correct parts instead of the aftermarket. Future concourse shows would require the car to be correct as possible, so just wanted to ask if anyone has pictures of a concours engine compartment for 351-4v M code without ram air

thanks

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Hi, I don't go for absolute concours, waste of money imo, but I do try to achieve an acceptable level of originality. Here are a few pics of my 71 M code engine. Some details have been dropped, like the dual vacuum canister on the distributor and the vacuum port switch. I used that location for a mechanical temp gauge sensor. I have also reshaped the fuel line. Let me know if you want close up details.

Hope it give you some ideas at least.

Geoff.



This shows a modified PCV hose, routed around the back of the Holley 670 carb, done for better access to the front PCV port.





In this shot, the PCV hose is to the front where it would be with a 4300 carb. The white ID tag on the V/C is for the 4 speed only.

Sweet thanks , any idea of battery compartment colors?

Sweet thanks , any idea of battery compartment colors?

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 My engine bay is all done with Eastwood 2K ceramic semi-gloss black. It has some texture for sure, but is proving to be very durable. A good semi-gloss or low gloss black would be fine I think.

Some may feel trying to achieve a concourse restoration is a waste... To each their own is my motto. I say, more power to you. The toughest restoration of these car’s today, is trying to bring them back to what may have originally left the factory back in the day. I respect this effort (level of restoration) put forth by those who choose this course of action. Keep at it!

There are two versions of how they look, lol. All restored cars are way overdone usually. No runs in paint, perfect coverage, all spot welds flash ground off and the stickers on perfect and straight. 

You asked about battery box. they were actually dipped in black so lots of runs on them but just a satin black. 

Like several finishes on these and other Mustangs I have never seen a black that matches the factory under the hood. 

Also remember the under the fender area on the inner fender, where the tires are was over spray body color. The bodies had the seam sealer applied and the hit and miss undercoating and then painted. The under hood was painted after the body was in color. 

I lost lots of pics I hope to get back showing some of how it was. 

You would have to hire a 10 year old legally blind person to spray it for you to look original. There was probably two people doing the spraying one on each side and had about 2 min. to do their job. 

The paint used to spray hood black and Decor Group black seems to be a different black than under the hood. 

If your car was made in Metuchen, NJ I think they used red oxide primer if Dearborn then gray. Since people sprayed the paint ever car is different. 

You will need to get you some slop gray for doing several parts under the hood. I am not up to speed on the 71 grill and headlight buckets. On my 73 the following are slop gray. Outer covers over the coil springs, small brace on lower fender valance going to radiator support, down low. Hood latch bracket bolted to radiator support, several of my grill parts are slop gray. The term Slop Gray comes from what Ford did with recovered paint and purge paint from lines. The put it all in one container no matter what color. When you mix all colors of paint they will always turn gray. Different shades at times of course so again no perfect matches. 

You will also need to get you some Iron Phosphate solution to rework some other items. The following had Iron Phosphate. Hood hinges and springs, hood latch mechanism, shock tower caps, gas pedal bracket, emergency brake assembly, part of pedal bracket painted. 

To do the Iron Phosphate coating you would glass bead blast the parts and get all oil and grease off. You will need quite a large stainless steel pot or container. You need to heat the solution for it to work properly. You can add marbles or sealed containers of water to raise your solution levels. 

If you have plating shop in town they can also do and save you the trouble. 

If you rework your fasteners there is several different coatings and I do not have a list of what is what. Some are iron phosphate, some are black zinc, some zinc with clear dichromate, some zinc with yellow dichromate. 

If you order the Osborne manuals that are copies of the Ford manuals for assembly it gives all the finishes. You need to get for year that you are doing. 

Because MCA wrote the rules to make the judges cars correct your car might be different. Ford made running changes quite often and never had just one supplier for fasteners always wanted competition. 

I ordered the heater hoses and radiator hoses that Marti sells and they are nothing like the originals I took off my car. Again they made them like one of the MCA judges cars to make his car correct and did not look at others. 

I have found that Dennis and Daniel Carpenter try to make their repo parts like the originals and they make the parts or have some in Taiwan. Others like Drake makes nothing just jobs everything out and puts his name on it. 

99.9% of the people will never know if you have it right or wrong just one of those things that OCD people worry about, lol.

99.9% of the people will never know if you have it right or wrong just one of those things that OCD people worry about, lol.

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 Good write-up David, especially the last line.

 Not intending sarcasm, it is to each owners preference and how deep their pockets are, as to the level of originality they can, or want to go to.

These are picture of the 71 headlight buckets and other parts on my car. These parts on this car were still as original, meaning the slop grey parts could still be seen as different from the black. Are they 100% correct, maybe, maybe not.



This is how it looked in 2012. Nothing in the engine bay had been touched prior to this. The slop grey on H/B's can still be seen.



Here, it is somewhat close to "concours" with some exceptions, pcv hose, coil, carb.



Shock tower braces in slop grey (NPD) T F B are randomly placed inspection stickers. ( a friend said they stood for "If you don't like it, Too F'n Bad!)





The 71 has two latch support brackets, both slop grey.

Does anyone know the correct battery tray for the 1971 M code? There's alot of wrong parts

I am not up to speed on 71 maybe one of the guys with parts books can look it up for you. I think there were two sizes in 71 to fit the HD battery option. Some 71 also got and extra heat shield cover for the side of the batter toward the engine. 

If you get you a set of the Osborne assembly line instructions they show all the details of the car I think the Chassis manual shows the engine compartment.

No idea but I found this "NOS" part on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-NEW-1971-73-MUSTANG-1970-71-FAIRLANE-TORINO-BATTERY-TRAY-DOOZ-10732-B/362946758418?epid=4024414935&hash=item5481500712:g:B0cAAOSw-uhdz3KQ

Mine looks exactly like that and is extremely rusted, I do have it soaking in rust remover and its gotten 80% off so far. I will probably just reuse it because all the reproductions I am finding are probably for the 429 CJ

icejawa.

The HD battery (27-F) was standard on the Boss 351 and 429 cars and was also available as a standalone option. There were two battery trays sourced from the 70-71 Torino that was utilized on the 71-73 Mustang. DOOZ-10732-A for the standard battery (24F) and DOOZ-10732-B for the HD battery (27F).

Ford discontinued the "DOOZ-A" tray for the 24 series battery and replaced it with the "DOOZ-B" tray in 1979. The repo people are evidently taking the one size fits all approach and only offering the larger B tray. With two years fitment for the 70-71 Torino, Mercury Montego/Cyclone and three with the Mustang/Cougar, I'm surprised they didn't go ahead and offer a repo version of both trays. But... they also don't fit 65-70 Mustangs!!

I have a NOS "A" tray but don't have it with me at this time to measure. I can provide battery dimensions from my Motorcraft battery catalog and you can figure the tray will be slightly larger.

The dimensions for the 24 series battery (W) 6 13/16"    (L) 10 3/4"    (H) 8 61/64"   

The dimensions for the 27 series battery (W) 6 13/16"    (L) 12 1/2"    (H) 9 9/64"

I have seen battery heat shields on the  C, J, and R Mustangs which did have the 27 series battery standard. Some sources tell me they have seen them on AC equipped cars but were not on my factory AC 71's. Another throwaway item from days gone by! 

As far as anyone attempting a Concours restoration, or anyone that has completed one and has it checked off on their Bucket list, a tip of my hat to you. A tough and expensive undertaking for ANY type of vehicle. Lots of 71-73 OE parts were discarded over the past 47+ years and the general lack of interest from both repo manufactures and the 65-70 club members made any 71-73 concourse restoration definitely a labor of Love. Date coded, period-correct and Nos parts have entered the "Perkins" price range on most parts I used to watch my friends throw away!

I have been involved "Parts Chasing" on a few very difficult Concourse level restoration projects and the only thing that kept me from losing what mind I have left is that it wasn't my money being spent!  

Well the great news is mine appears to be the original battery tray, I have had it soaking in rust remover for almost 2 days and its looking great. I will just have to sand the patchy pitting where the rust was removed and then paint it.

Now that I am done with the battery tray I need to ask which slop gray is the better option? I see two options one of a "medium" gray and a "darker" gray on NPD.

I was thinking the darker gray because I've mostly heard the gray is just slightly distinguished from the semi-gloss painting of the rest of the engine bay. Thanks in advance.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-dark-slop-gray-correct-dark/204598?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-under-hood-medium-slop-gray-correct-medium/107680?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dslop%252Bgray%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

One thought on the battery tray. I think Daniel Carpenter got the original tooling for the tray so it will be just like the original. I will ask him this year if he has the ability to go for HD and std.

So if you order one of his repo it will be off original Ford tooling.

They did not have any thing exactly from plant to plant as far as the slop grey goes. But the black semi gloss was just that, black semi gloss. The slop grey from what I have seen could be black or a grayish color, nothing really specific there. It was a mix of whatever they had.

@jpaz Yeah its all different shades so I think I will go with the darker option just because its less dramatic looking

@jpaz Yeah its all different shades so I think I will go with the darker option just because its less dramatic looking

Her’s a couple pics of my underhood detail 

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An all original looking car means almost everything has surface rust on every part under the hood and suspension etc. I HATE Rust!! As long as everything looks good under the hood it's all good! Since almost 50 years have gone by probably no one knows 100% what is "Original" looking in my opinion! I like good quality chrome under the hood, the more the better LOL...just not the cheap aftermarket Chinese Junk Chrome Parts!