Headers are tight on drivers side

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AcesArneson

AcesArneson

73' Vert with NACA Ram Air
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2019
Messages
379
Reaction score
245
Location
Fort McMurray, Alberta
My Car
'73 Vert with 4R70W
351C Ram Air 2V 441 hp @ 6000 RPM
SEFI EEC-V (2004)
9" trac-loc limited slip 3.5:1
P-Zero 265/35ZR-19's front 305/30ZR-19's rear
Just running a test fit on my headers after getting them back from the ceramic coating shop. Looks real tight on the drivers side going around the steering box. I am thinking when the motor moves around on the mounts that I will be scratching against the steering box. Just saw this link where a guy made a movement on his headers by applying tension and heat. Has anyone else got any victory stories like this that might work?

His trick was to warm up the headers by running the motor for a while then jacking up the far end of the headers to put tension on them then he let it cool. He moved the headers almost 3" at the far end, so maybe a 1/4" at the header.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/any-tips-for-bending-headers-to-match-the-frame.787263/

Here is a picture from the front and top of mine after they were coated. pretty tight in there.
 

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Which headers are those? I have the ceramic coated Hookers and it goes very close to the steering gear. I run it like that for a few years without issues, but last year for added measure I wrapped the pipes near the steering gear to shield the heat.
 
tony-muscle said:
Which headers are those? I have the ceramic coated Hookers and it goes very close to the steering gear. I run it like that for a few years without issues, but last year for added measure I wrapped the pipes near the steering gear to shield the heat.
Click to expand...
Actually the ceramic coating acts like a heat barrier. You might be surprised how little of a distance you can run pipes to various components without any harm. On the other hand, the ceramic holds the heat in the tube much longer than "header paint". My hands have taught me, painfully I might add, for the veracity of the previous sentence. LOL
 
AcesArneson said:
Just running a test fit on my headers after getting them back from the ceramic coating shop. Looks real tight on the drivers side going around the steering box. I am thinking when the motor moves around on the mounts that I will be scratching against the steering box. Just saw this link where a guy made a movement on his headers by applying tension and heat. Has anyone else got any victory stories like this that might work?

His trick was to warm up the headers by running the motor for a while then jacking up the far end of the headers to put tension on them then he let it cool. He moved the headers almost 3" at the far end, so maybe a 1/4" at the header.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/any-tips-for-bending-headers-to-match-the-frame.787263/

Here is a picture from the front and top of mine after they were coated. pretty tight in there.
Click to expand...
I may try this. I have a problem with my Hooker Super Comps. The collector flange on the passenger side is about an inch too high and won't clear the trans crossmember. I was considering cutting off the flange and going to a slip fit reducer and lap joint band clamp, but maybe ill try this first
 
You might try and loosen the engine mounts and try to move the engine over.

Or the engine mounts might have sagged.

Try looking for location options before you bash in a coated header.
 
KevinP said:
I may try this. I have a problem with my Hooker Super Comps. The collector flange on the passenger side is about an inch too high and won't clear the trans crossmember. I was considering cutting off the flange and going to a slip fit reducer and lap joint band clamp, but maybe ill try this first
Click to expand...
If you retard the ignition timing somewhat it will get the headers hot enough to move them. I watched a fellow do this and when the tubes glowed red he bent them as needed.
 
tony-muscle said:
Which headers are those? I have the ceramic coated Hookers and it goes very close to the steering gear. I run it like that for a few years without issues, but last year for added measure I wrapped the pipes near the steering gear to shield the heat.
Click to expand...
They are Hedman 1-3/4" long tubes. I am really hoping I can bend them out even an 1/8 of an inch so I can wrap the steering box.
 
KevinP said:
I may try this. I have a problem with my Hooker Super Comps. The collector flange on the passenger side is about an inch too high and won't clear the trans crossmember. I was considering cutting off the flange and going to a slip fit reducer and lap joint band clamp, but maybe ill try this first
Click to expand...
Let the class know how it works out. I wont be able to get at mine until the end of summer.
 
rcadd1ct said:
You might try and loosen the engine mounts and try to move the engine over.

Or the engine mounts might have sagged.

Try looking for location options before you bash in a coated header.
Click to expand...
Yeah I have rebuilt engine mounts that I think may provide me some relief when it comes to moving the engine over a bit. The '73 Verts don't have motor mounts on the market anymore so if you need new ones you have to tear your old ones apart and install a new top in the clamshell. The new tops have a bit of play in them so I will see how far that goes.
I will never dent a header, I would replace it first. Really hoping that bending technique gives me some play room.
 
MAD IRISHMAN said:
If you retard the ignition timing somewhat it will get the headers hot enough to move them. I watched a fellow do this and when the tubes glowed red he bent them as needed.
Click to expand...
Wow, that sounds very useful.
 
rcadd1ct said:
You might try and loosen the engine mounts and try to move the engine over.

Or the engine mounts might have sagged.

Try looking for location options before you bash in a coated header.
Click to expand...
Also the mount adaptors, bolted to the frame, may be offset to one side. I've seen this a couple of times. Chuck
 
Engine Masters ran a series of dynamometer runs with various header configurations, including denting them in for clearances. Dents did not affect the power output. If I remember correctly, they dented them in about 1/4 of the tube diameter.
 
Don, I saw that article on dented headers as well. You are correct that they didn't show any negative effects, although, asthetically, I too dislike having to dent headers, guess you gotta do what you gotta do now and again.
 
c9zx said:
Also the mount adaptors, bolted to the frame, may be offset to one side. I've seen this a couple of times. Chuck
Click to expand...
Yeah I tried that already, they don't move at all. There really isn't enough metal around the holes to drill them out and slide them either. I am pretty sure I am going to be stuck trying to heat up the headers and move them slightly. Kinda sucks because I am converting this build to EFI and the bungs are already welded into the headers, so I don't have much room to push the headers up. Should have thought about this before getting the bungs welded in I guess. Oh well, lessons learned.
 
AcesArneson said:
Yeah I tried that already, they don't move at all. There really isn't enough metal around the holes to drill them out and slide them either. I am pretty sure I am going to be stuck trying to heat up the headers and move them slightly. Kinda sucks because I am converting this build to EFI and the bungs are already welded into the headers, so I don't have much room to push the headers up. Should have thought about this before getting the bungs welded in I guess. Oh well, lessons learned.
Click to expand...
They sell collectors with the bungs in them. That is the preferred location as it is farther down the line and gets a better o2 reading
 
Don C said:
Engine Masters ran a series of dynamometer runs with various header configurations, including denting them in for clearances. Dents did not affect the power output. If I remember correctly, they dented them in about 1/4 of the tube diameter.
Click to expand...
Thanks Don, denting headers just seems like giving up to me. I don’t imagine I will need every cubic inch in my headers but in my mind denting would lead to rusting.
 
Got about 1/8” by moving the motor mount pads within the clamshell. The old and new clamshells are exactly the same size. The new ones are not as strong as the old ones so I stuck with the old ones.
With the motor shifted towards the passenger side I am going to try and lift the drivers side a touch to get it level. A lot of pissing around to make headers fit that the manufacturer said would work in my ‘73 Vert. Not impressed with Hedman Headers. The tubes coming through the flanges need lots of work, the more I think about it the less impressed I am. DO NOT BUY HEDMAN HEADERS FOR A 351C.
 
AcesArneson said:
Got about 1/8” by moving the motor mount pads within the clamshell. The old and new clamshells are exactly the same size. The new ones are not as strong as the old ones so I stuck with the old ones.
With the motor shifted towards the passenger side I am going to try and lift the drivers side a touch to get it level. A lot of pissing around to make headers fit that the manufacturer said would work in my ‘73 Vert. Not impressed with Hedman Headers. The tubes coming through the flanges need lots of work, the more I think about it the less impressed I am. DO NOT BUY HEDMAN HEADERS FOR A 351C.
Click to expand...
I also suggest you let Hedman (or any company for that matter) know of your dissatisfaction with their product. Good companies will strive to improve their product and take care of legitimate customer service issues.
 

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