Headers are tight on drivers side

[AcesArneson]

Just running a test fit on my headers after getting them back from the ceramic coating shop. Looks real tight on the drivers side going around the steering box. I am thinking when the motor moves around on the mounts that I will be scratching against the steering box. Just saw this link where a guy made a movement on his headers by applying tension and heat. Has anyone else got any victory stories like this that might work?

His trick was to warm up the headers by running the motor for a while then jacking up the far end of the headers to put tension on them then he let it cool. He moved the headers almost 3" at the far end, so maybe a 1/4" at the header.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/any-tips-for-bending-headers-to-match-the-frame.787263/

Here is a picture from the front and top of mine after they were coated. pretty tight in there.

 

[AcesArneson]

Also have to flatten out the header flange face. Not looking forward to this.
https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=60a3...XN0K2hlYWRlcitmbGFuZ2UlNWMmRk9STT1WRFJF&ntb=1

 

[tony-muscle]

Which headers are those? I have the ceramic coated Hookers and it goes very close to the steering gear. I run it like that for a few years without issues, but last year for added measure I wrapped the pipes near the steering gear to shield the heat.

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

Which headers are those? I have the ceramic coated Hookers and it goes very close to the steering gear. I run it like that for a few years without issues, but last year for added measure I wrapped the pipes near the steering gear to shield the heat.

Actually the ceramic coating acts like a heat barrier. You might be surprised how little of a distance you can run pipes to various components without any harm. On the other hand, the ceramic holds the heat in the tube much longer than "header paint". My hands have taught me, painfully I might add, for the veracity of the previous sentence. LOL

 

[KevinP]

Just running a test fit on my headers after getting them back from the ceramic coating shop. Looks real tight on the drivers side going around the steering box. I am thinking when the motor moves around on the mounts that I will be scratching against the steering box. Just saw this link where a guy made a movement on his headers by applying tension and heat. Has anyone else got any victory stories like this that might work?

His trick was to warm up the headers by running the motor for a while then jacking up the far end of the headers to put tension on them then he let it cool. He moved the headers almost 3" at the far end, so maybe a 1/4" at the header.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/any-tips-for-bending-headers-to-match-the-frame.787263/

Here is a picture from the front and top of mine after they were coated. pretty tight in there.

I may try this. I have a problem with my Hooker Super Comps. The collector flange on the passenger side is about an inch too high and won't clear the trans crossmember. I was considering cutting off the flange and going to a slip fit reducer and lap joint band clamp, but maybe ill try this first

 

[rcadd1ct]

You might try and loosen the engine mounts and try to move the engine over.

Or the engine mounts might have sagged.

Try looking for location options before you bash in a coated header.

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

I may try this. I have a problem with my Hooker Super Comps. The collector flange on the passenger side is about an inch too high and won't clear the trans crossmember. I was considering cutting off the flange and going to a slip fit reducer and lap joint band clamp, but maybe ill try this first

If you retard the ignition timing somewhat it will get the headers hot enough to move them. I watched a fellow do this and when the tubes glowed red he bent them as needed.

 

[AcesArneson]

Which headers are those? I have the ceramic coated Hookers and it goes very close to the steering gear. I run it like that for a few years without issues, but last year for added measure I wrapped the pipes near the steering gear to shield the heat.

They are Hedman 1-3/4" long tubes. I am really hoping I can bend them out even an 1/8 of an inch so I can wrap the steering box.

 

[AcesArneson]

I may try this. I have a problem with my Hooker Super Comps. The collector flange on the passenger side is about an inch too high and won't clear the trans crossmember. I was considering cutting off the flange and going to a slip fit reducer and lap joint band clamp, but maybe ill try this first

Let the class know how it works out. I wont be able to get at mine until the end of summer.

 

[AcesArneson]

You might try and loosen the engine mounts and try to move the engine over.

Or the engine mounts might have sagged.

Try looking for location options before you bash in a coated header.

Yeah I have rebuilt engine mounts that I think may provide me some relief when it comes to moving the engine over a bit. The '73 Verts don't have motor mounts on the market anymore so if you need new ones you have to tear your old ones apart and install a new top in the clamshell. The new tops have a bit of play in them so I will see how far that goes.
I will never dent a header, I would replace it first. Really hoping that bending technique gives me some play room.

 

[AcesArneson]

If you retard the ignition timing somewhat it will get the headers hot enough to move them. I watched a fellow do this and when the tubes glowed red he bent them as needed.

Wow, that sounds very useful.

 

[c9zx]

You might try and loosen the engine mounts and try to move the engine over.

Or the engine mounts might have sagged.

Try looking for location options before you bash in a coated header.

Also the mount adaptors, bolted to the frame, may be offset to one side. I've seen this a couple of times. Chuck

 

[Don C]

Engine Masters ran a series of dynamometer runs with various header configurations, including denting them in for clearances. Dents did not affect the power output. If I remember correctly, they dented them in about 1/4 of the tube diameter.

 

[Spike Morelli]

Don, I saw that article on dented headers as well. You are correct that they didn't show any negative effects, although, asthetically, I too dislike having to dent headers, guess you gotta do what you gotta do now and again.

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd recommend a set of headers that actually fit. Hooker 6921 for 2V port heads, 6915 for 4V.

 

[AcesArneson]

Also the mount adaptors, bolted to the frame, may be offset to one side. I've seen this a couple of times. Chuck

Yeah I tried that already, they don't move at all. There really isn't enough metal around the holes to drill them out and slide them either. I am pretty sure I am going to be stuck trying to heat up the headers and move them slightly. Kinda sucks because I am converting this build to EFI and the bungs are already welded into the headers, so I don't have much room to push the headers up. Should have thought about this before getting the bungs welded in I guess. Oh well, lessons learned.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Yeah I tried that already, they don't move at all. There really isn't enough metal around the holes to drill them out and slide them either. I am pretty sure I am going to be stuck trying to heat up the headers and move them slightly. Kinda sucks because I am converting this build to EFI and the bungs are already welded into the headers, so I don't have much room to push the headers up. Should have thought about this before getting the bungs welded in I guess. Oh well, lessons learned.

They sell collectors with the bungs in them. That is the preferred location as it is farther down the line and gets a better o2 reading

 

[AcesArneson]

Engine Masters ran a series of dynamometer runs with various header configurations, including denting them in for clearances. Dents did not affect the power output. If I remember correctly, they dented them in about 1/4 of the tube diameter.

Thanks Don, denting headers just seems like giving up to me. I don’t imagine I will need every cubic inch in my headers but in my mind denting would lead to rusting.

 

[AcesArneson]

Got about 1/8” by moving the motor mount pads within the clamshell. The old and new clamshells are exactly the same size. The new ones are not as strong as the old ones so I stuck with the old ones.
With the motor shifted towards the passenger side I am going to try and lift the drivers side a touch to get it level. A lot of pissing around to make headers fit that the manufacturer said would work in my ‘73 Vert. Not impressed with Hedman Headers. The tubes coming through the flanges need lots of work, the more I think about it the less impressed I am. DO NOT BUY HEDMAN HEADERS FOR A 351C.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Got about 1/8” by moving the motor mount pads within the clamshell. The old and new clamshells are exactly the same size. The new ones are not as strong as the old ones so I stuck with the old ones.
With the motor shifted towards the passenger side I am going to try and lift the drivers side a touch to get it level. A lot of pissing around to make headers fit that the manufacturer said would work in my ‘73 Vert. Not impressed with Hedman Headers. The tubes coming through the flanges need lots of work, the more I think about it the less impressed I am. DO NOT BUY HEDMAN HEADERS FOR A 351C.

I also suggest you let Hedman (or any company for that matter) know of your dissatisfaction with their product. Good companies will strive to improve their product and take care of legitimate customer service issues.