Need help/advice on my 71 suspension and brakes

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Milalynne

Milalynne

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2024
Messages
56
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Location
Bedford Texas
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1 Yellow gold
My front desk brakes the rotors are new they’ve been replaced by the previous owner. But the stopping on this thing is terrible so what should I do with my back brakes are there some good pads that will help out if so do you know what brand and kind what else can I do to help out

Part two the suspension
I mean this car has over 400 hp but this suspension is terrible on it I was thinking buying like a full bushing kit replacing all the bushings what do you think I also hear there’s two kinds well I know there’s two kinds the whatever if you think that’s a good idea which one should I get I’m also what about a 1 inch front sway bar? What about subframe connectors my dad says not a good idea cause you know you have to weld them on And could bring down the value but I want to make some that you can just bolt on I know there’s not a good as welding but I know you could buy some bolt on for the fox body any advice on that question on that. 3rd question on the suspension the struts I was looking at KYB because they have some that’s auto adjustable but I hear Blistein cost more but the what I read an article is that it made a world a difference versus the KYB do you think it’s worth the extra $200 . Any other suspension advice where I could tighten it up and also I mean the steering wheel is I mean it straight but it’s like it’s so easy to turn like before you know it you’re in the other lane I’ve never driven a car that’s not tight like I mean this is just different And I got that’s too dangerous especially if I wanted to take it to the road track you know dragstrip I take it to dragstrip to see the timing but it’s I’m in Moore to road racing not street racing any help at all I would be greatly appreciated I know probably all y’all are experts I know everything there is to know about Mustangs and Corvettes so thank you Siemens customer support Center this is Mila Siemens customer support center this is my Mila
 
Having a sound suspension is the foundation for a good handling Mustang. There are many opinions and options for suspensions, and it will hinge on what your goals are for your car. Some prefer polyurethane, other prefer the original rubber, some a mix of both. For more serious road course type configuration, you will want to look at sources like opentrackerracing.com or mikemaierinc.com - we have a few members on here that have been down that road with their cars. Several of us are using ADDCO sway bars on our street cars and the handling improvement of the larger bars are very noticeable. Shocks run the range of hydraulic, gas, adjustable with a wide price range.

Opentrackerracing.com offers some brake upgrade options. One that may help your braking needs are the Porterfield brake shoes they offer.

Maybe some others will add their recommendations here.
 
Of course 'terrible' is a relative term. Our cars are 50 year old technology based on even older designs. They won't compare to the technology of newer cars, especially the chassis and suspension. Corvettes, even the older ones, had the advantage of less weight, full frames and generally better suspension technologies.

I put on sub-frame connectors way way long ago but I have a convertible, that makes them an almost 'must have' and I wasn't worried about resale value. Unless you are going to try to sell it as an 'all original' I don't think subframe connectors will drop the value much. Most people on the board wouldn't strike money off and a casual mustang buyer wouldn't know the difference.
 
Milalynne said:
My front desk brakes the rotors are new they’ve been replaced by the previous owner. But the stopping on this thing is terrible so what should I do with my back brakes are there some good pads that will help out if so do you know what brand and kind what else can I do to help out

Part two the suspension
I mean this car has over 400 hp but this suspension is terrible on it I was thinking buying like a full bushing kit replacing all the bushings what do you think I also hear there’s two kinds well I know there’s two kinds the whatever if you think that’s a good idea which one should I get I’m also what about a 1 inch front sway bar? What about subframe connectors my dad says not a good idea cause you know you have to weld them on And could bring down the value but I want to make some that you can just bolt on I know there’s not a good as welding but I know you could buy some bolt on for the fox body any advice on that question on that. 3rd question on the suspension the struts I was looking at KYB because they have some that’s auto adjustable but I hear Blistein cost more but the what I read an article is that it made a world a difference versus the KYB do you think it’s worth the extra $200 . Any other suspension advice where I could tighten it up and also I mean the steering wheel is I mean it straight but it’s like it’s so easy to turn like before you know it you’re in the other lane I’ve never driven a car that’s not tight like I mean this is just different And I got that’s too dangerous especially if I wanted to take it to the road track you know dragstrip I take it to dragstrip to see the timing but it’s I’m in Moore to road racing not street racing any help at all I would be greatly appreciated I know probably all y’all are experts I know everything there is to know about Mustangs and Corvettes so thank you Siemens customer support Center this is Mila Siemens customer support center this is my Mila
Click to expand...
I would contact John at Opentracker Racing and discuss suspension , they do not try to over sell you but will educate on what's needed
 
If you have discs up front and drums in the back, the brakes on these are perfectly adequate for not having ABS and having like 8" wide tread. You should be able to lock up all 4 corners and leave black marks on the pavement. Even with cheap parts from autozone.

The usual issues are having the front calipers on the wrong side, which makes them impossible to bleed. Also, a seized proportioning valve that prevents half the brakes from working. And then not having the system properly bled. Air in the line is squishy.

Bleed the master cylinder. You can bench bleed it installed in the car. Then bleed each corner, starting with the furthest from the master cylinder. Keep going till you see bubbles, and keep going till there's no bubbles.
 
I went Opentracker racing for:
Heim strut bar
Roller perch
Reinforced roller lower arm
1 1/8” front sway bar
Roller idler arm

I couldn’t get enough caster shimming so I went global west upper arms with 3 degrees and the Shelby drop

Recently added the lares quick ratio steering box

Weld in classic subframe connectors (where I can lift one side of the car easily jacking on the front torque box)

All of the above has made the car handle like a new car ( I wanted my wife to feel comfortable driving it)

All of the above are little improvements. Doing them all makes a big difference.

Gas shocks raise the car that was designed for oil shocks

The alignment is the key. You have to use Opentrackers specs. Original specs are for bias ply tires and you probably have radials on. This is why you have to shim the upper an arm or replace it with one having added caster. If you done the tires will rub the fenders while turning.
 
The best approach is to start with replacing the worn-out parts you have now, THEN see if you need/ want to throw all that money into the extra items you mention.
Start with lifting your front end off the ground, look at the condition of all your bushings/ ball joints.
If the boots are torn/ rotted & you see grease leaking around wheel seals, ball joints, steering box, etc., fix all that first.
Grab each front tire at 3 & 9 position & try to wiggle it, (checking for play). do the same thing from the 12 & 6 position. When you spin the tire, there should be a slight resistance, if not, you may need new wheel bearings, or just a 1/4 turn on the nut to firm them up, (may as well re-grease while you're doing it).
Get a good steering box, combined with replacing your inner/ out tie-rod ends, pitman arm, etc., this will eliminate the EASY & LOOSE steering/ wandering you have.
KYB offers stock rate gas shocks & +25% stiffer, (gas-a-just). Bilstein is a good shock, but I think they're over-priced, (my opinion).
Fatter sway bars will allow for flatter cornering, but only when the other items are in good shape.
 

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