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Joined
Nov 25, 2024
Messages
14
Reaction score
18
Location
Ball Ground, Ga
My Car
1973 Q-Code Convertible
I did some poking around the new car today and discovered the following:

The carb was replaced with a Edelbrock Performer 1406 600 CFM carb on top of the stock manifold with an adapter plate.
A partial serial number on the back of the block (difficult to get with a phone video!) that matches the VIN.
A 4 on the corners of the heads.
Stock dizzy with a Jacobs electronic ignition.
4 spd Toploader with a tag of RUG-BJ2, DB 017314. I've seen one other post talking about that Id number but no details found anywhere.
3.50 9 in 28 spline rear end
 

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I find those 1406 carbs very easy to work on. Hope you have the same experience.

IMHO, 600 CFM is a little small, but maybe better for MPG. :)
 
I did some poking around the new car today and discovered the following:

The carb was replaced with a Edelbrock Performer 1406 600 CFM carb on top of the stock manifold with an adapter plate.
A partial serial number on the back of the block (difficult to get with a phone video!) that matches the VIN.
A 4 on the corners of the heads.
Stock dizzy with a Jacobs electronic ignition.
4 spd Toploader with a tag of RUG-BJ2, DB 017314. I've seen one other post talking about that Id number but no details found anywhere.
3.50 9 in 28 spline rear end
https://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/idchart2.htm I don't see BJ2 on the chart but I'm sure David Kee could help if you contact him.
 
CFM calculators and Cleveland 4V heads really don't work well together. For performance use, a 750 is the magic number for a mild street 4V engine. FWIW, I've been running an old school Holley 4780 800cfm double pumper since the mid nineties. It just plain works.

RUG-BJ2 doesn't appear in any of the Ford parts books I have, so I can only assume it was a very late '73 production revision to the Mustang application. Toploaders were NLA after '73, not even in a Torino. Your production date of 4/73 is particularly "late", so I'm surprised it doesn't show up. If you're inclined, look on top of the trans case mounting flange, there should be a partial VIN stamp there as well.
 
An interesting thing about carburetion. Sometimes what the Factory put on your car isn't the exact perfrct combination for it. While I was working as a mechanic at a So-Cal Mustang shop, we did many complete rotiserrie concours restorations. tthe example that comes to mind was a '68 Shelby .which had the 428, and of course had numbers correct dual Holley carbs. Before the customer would pick up their new restoration, we would make sure every thing was functioning properly, and that included a trip to the chassis dyno shop, which was directly behind us on the next block. The restoration is as the Factory engine was, correct in detail as well as camshaft, compression, iron manifolds, etc. On the chassis dyno, the Shelbys didn't run as good as they ought to with out of the box carbs. Factory jetting always needed to be changed. As supplied, the Factory carbs set up tends to be overkill on a stock street engine, but it sure looks like business, which is likely why they came that way, more for underhood appeal than necessity. The 289 powered GT-350s came with 715 Holleys, which "math wise" would be too much, but those cars had minimal 3.50-on up gears and four-speeds, so they tended to keep rpm up and velocity high in the intake tract. So the point I'm alluding to is you nedd to "give your engine what it needs,not what you want to give it". Add to that thought, the larger the cubic inches that needs feeding, and the higher the rpm, the more cfm is required, but if you use your engine for crusing, or have an Overdrive, the bigger carbs will just make it a dog. For various reasons then, no two cars will have the same carburetion requirements. We had a customer with a '62 Sport Thunderbird, which came with three-twos on a 390 from the Factory. That customer would bring the car in after months, complaining about poor performance now and again. What was happening was, he didn't drive it all the time, and when he did, only cruised his restored T-Bird. He only drove on the center carb, so the outside carbs would varnish up and need occasional overhauling to clean out the circuits. In his case, he could have been just as happy with a single carb on his car, with the way he used it, regardless of how it was equipped from the " Factory" .
 
CFM calculators and Cleveland 4V heads really don't work well together. For performance use, a 750 is the magic number for a mild street 4V engine. FWIW, I've been running an old school Holley 4780 800cfm double pumper since the mid nineties. It just plain works.
Was wondering if you know what the bore of the carb base is for your DP 800? Thanks in advance...
 
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