Body color to engine bay transistion

Steve McMahan · Dec 8, 2024

I did try to do a through search of the site to find an answer to this question. I do have the assembly manual for my 73 Vert, but where does the body color end and the engine compartment color start? I know the fenders are body color, but not sure where the transition is on the body. Thanks.

turtle5353 · Dec 8, 2024

Here an original paint 71 that I tore down to restore. Hopefully this helps. If you need more pics let me know.

turtle5353 · Dec 8, 2024

Here’s a few after paint. I tried to replicate factory as close as possible.

Steve McMahan · Dec 8, 2024

Looks like the top of the cowl is engine bay color and the original body color ends at the splash shields? Does that seem right?

Tnfastbk · Dec 9, 2024

here was mine during the paint/clean up process. Original as far as I know, early 71

Hemikiller · Dec 9, 2024

You're going to find variations year to year and plant to plant, even shift to shift. My 71 Metuchen Mach 1 had the lower body argent on the rockers all the way to the splash guard. When I sprayed the engine compartment black, I went out further than factory. The painter brought the blue in further on the windshield/dash area, closer to factory.

Steve McMahan · Dec 9, 2024

Thanks you guys. I think what I want to do is more like the green vehicle Hemikiller posted. That area between the splash shield and the door post can’t be seen when the car is assembled. My plan for the front wheel wells: POR the area between the front core support to the door pillar, then seam seal, and then undercoating. And do the same for the underbody section: part of the engine compartment, laying under the vehicle and looking up. And then prime and paint engine compartment, including the cowl with the black satin.

I know the POR is overkill, but I’ve got it and why not. But I do have a few process questions for those who’ve done this process. First, after I paint the POR on, how long do I wait to apply the spray undercoating to it? Do I have to let it cure and then scuff it to apply the undercoating? Same question if I apply regular grey primer to POR. Will any of those products somehow interfere with the POR curing process?

Thanks again for the suggestion and help.

MOTORCITYBADBOY · Dec 9, 2024

For questions like "what is the correct way of painting?" being a member of MCA is helpful. On the MCA website you can access MCA judges, and the judging rules- in other words detailing. Even if you're not trying to build a 100 pt. car...

https://mustang.org/

tpj71mach · Dec 10, 2024

Steve McMahan said:
Thanks you guys. I think what I want to do is more like the green vehicle Hemikiller posted. That area between the splash shield and the door post can’t be seen when the car is assembled. My plan for the front wheel wells: POR the area between the front core support to the door pillar, then seam seal, and then undercoating. And do the same for the underbody section: part of the engine compartment, laying under the vehicle and looking up. And then prime and paint engine compartment, including the cowl with the black satin.

I know the POR is overkill, but I’ve got it and why not. But I do have a few process questions for those who’ve done this process. First, after I paint the POR on, how long do I wait to apply the spray undercoating to it? Do I have to let it cure and then scuff it to apply the undercoating? Same question if I apply regular grey primer to POR. Will any of those products somehow interfere with the POR curing process?

Thanks again for the suggestion and help.

The way it looks in Hemi Killer's pic is what I tried to achieve with my car when I sprayed the body color. I did cut it back a bit further at the base of the pillar/windshield area though. Taking it to the seam sealer line, like Hemi killer's picture shows, is the correct way though. I probably should have masked it there, but I was unnecessarily concerned about body color showing inside the seal of the windshield as it did on one of my other cars. My other cars are GM's and I didn't realize until I purchased my windshield the lower few inches are blacked out on our car's glass and no color bleed could be seen anyway.

As far as Por15, I have painted my car's underneath and wheel wells with a Por15 type product, just a different brand that I prefer. I would use it especially if you already have it. I would wait until it is fully cured before you apply the undercoating. I would assume that would be 24-48 hours, but it should say on the can, or you can google the curing time for that product. I prefer to spray it to have a nicer finish, but spoiler alert, it smells even worse when applied by gun than by brush, haha.

Make sure to use good PPE. If you choose to apply by gun, a painter's suit and a good respirator are absolute necessities when spraying that product.

bkdunha · Dec 10, 2024

keep in mind POR15 cures with the humidity content in the air. In the winter with dry cold air in takes longer. Do Google the dry times for the best answer. Also keep in mind when the door opens you do see the area between the back of the splash shield and the cowl. This is a big area in MCA judging to have clean and not have buffing compound residue or dust and dirt in that area.

Steve McMahan · Dec 10, 2024

Answer from POR folks on painting over:

CAN I PAINT OVER POR-15 WITH OTHER PAINTS?
You may apply most coatings over POR-15 when it has just dried and still has a slight friction/resistance while dragging your finger along the surface (dry but slightly tacky) or has completely dried and has been sanded and cleaned with our Cleaner Degreaser.

The last time I brushed it on, it took a very long time to cure here in the Az winter. Current humidity is 19 percent. It’s good to know I can apply paint and undercoating without sanding. I’ve got to get a precise game plan on the steps so I don’t get crossed up.

Thank you @bdkunha for the heads up.

Steve McMahan · Dec 11, 2024

One quick process question. Should I do POR15 and then seam sealer and then under coating or seam sealer than POR15 then undercoating?

Sheriff41 · Dec 11, 2024

You're doing this one to a much higher level than your coupe. It'll turn out nice!

turtle5353 · Dec 11, 2024

I use Lord Fusor direct to metal seam sealer. Then top coat over it. Depends what your seam sealer calls out.

tpj71mach · Dec 11, 2024

I sprayed epoxy primer and seam sealed before painting, then I added the sound deadener after the paint cured. That is how I have always done it, I'm not sure if it is the best way or not, but it has always worked well for me.

Steve McMahan · Dec 11, 2024

Thanks, those suggestions helped.

Steve McMahan · Dec 12, 2024

Well, here’s what I ended up with. POR-15 applied:

And with undercoating, not quite dry yet:

Thanks again for the helpful advice.

Tnfastbk · Dec 12, 2024

Looks good and a whole lot more than the factory ever did.

Steve McMahan · Dec 14, 2024

I know for most, the POR 15 is overkill. But, I’m not the original owner. And I’m no spring chicken. Someday, this car, hopefully, will be completely restored. And then, it will eventually be someone else’s. Who knows, it could be someone from let’s say, upstate NY where they salt the roads. I’m sure that owner will be glad I did all this. For me, we’re just stewards of these cars. I want to build it for me and the next owner. And of course, do burnouts!

turtle5353 · Dec 14, 2024

I agree on the burnouts!!!!

Body color to engine bay transistion

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