1971 351C 2V Intake and carb question.

[Don C]

With all of the damage in the area you're probably lucky you even found a contractor available. You might've had to trade your wire cutters in on saws and your crimpers for hammers.

 

[barnett468]

Got two General Contractors (finally!) to look at the house and make bids; roofers started today and fencing on 2nd of 3rd day of work.  Progress!  Still looking a 4-6 months before we can fully move back into the house.

Glad there is finally something getting done. That is just such a horrible ordeal, and then everyone that stays just wonders when the next big one might come. We have our own problems to worry about here in so cal  like waiting for the next time it gets cloudy or possibly even sprinkles a little. I actually went looking for rain coats the other day and couldnt find a store that sold them,  so ill probably just order one from ebay.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Back in the day for simplicity, I always went straight to an edelbrock carb on my stock or slightly modified motors, just like Eric did with his. Never had any trouble with them, straight out of the box just set the idle.  

I am far from being a carb tuner!

And the gentleman that i'm doing this for does not want to have to touch once its installed.

I just don't want to have to fight it to get it to run properly.

I will look into the quick fuel and the summit brand carbs too.

i have tuned literally over 500 carbs, with the majority being holleys but several were eddys, and i tune them and the timing etc until the engines run perfectly, and i can tell you with a lot of first hand experience that IF an eddy needs to be tuned, it can be a nightmare and may not be able to be tuned properly because of the limited amount of tuning parts they make for it. of course, there will be instances where an eddy just happens to work "acceptably" well enough to use right out of the box, but in my experience, that percentage is extremely low.

in contrast, holleys are easy to tune and you do not have to buy an entire $65.00 kit just to try and tune them like you do with the eddys.

i also doubt that you do not want to be in a position where you buy an eddy carb and it does not work properly right out of the box and you can't seem to get it to work as well as the customer wants and then you need to start a thread titled. "HOW DO I TUNE THIS POS EDDY CARBURETOR?"

I will also add that i have in fact bought cars that had fairly new eddys on them that did not run quite right and i simply took them off and literally gave them away for free just to not put myself thru the possibility of the carb not being able to be runed properly or just because i didn't have the tuning parts left that i needed and didn't want to fork out another $65.00 for them.

.

Ah...c'mon, Barnett...tell us how you really feel! ::devil::

No kidding.  You do realize that the word 'carburetor' is derived from an old-world French word roughly translated as, "Don't F00k with it."  rofl

Seriously though, carburetors are the automotive world's equivalent of a leaky toilet, and tuning them for optimum performance is more of an art form, rather than a science.

Having said that, my 1406 fired up first time out of the box and only required setting the idle - albeit, running a little rich.  I tuned that out later by actually reading the manual that came in the box, and was surprised to learn that tuning an Edelbrock carb for 'good enough' performance is a lot different than I or my pal Jim (a 40+ year master mechanic and self-proclaimed Edelbrock Man) realized.  He hadn't RTFM'd in a great many decades and was surprised to learn he'd been doing a few things differently the whole time himself (adjusting one thing, then over-compensating something else to get close to what he originally wanted).  Regardless, mine's been running like a champ with the same settings (haven't touched a thing) for the past 4 years.

Maybe carburetors are also like the family dog: if it senses you really don't like it, there's a good chance your shoes might be wet with doggy water at some point.  Just a thought.

 

[Hemikiller]

I had similar experiences with the Edelbrock/Carter AFB carbs over the years. I "knew" they were good carbs, but they always were so damn troublesome. If a car sat for more than a week or two, all the fuel would evaporate from the bowls, leaving behind some crusty crap to plug up the main jets, which were at the very bottom of the bowls. Tuning was just a PITA with the hanger/spring/metering rod combo just waiting to jump apart and head into the intake. Heat soak was always an issue. About ten years ago I finally had had enough and took all of the Edelbrock & Carter AFB carbs I had, along with all the tuning bits and sold everything on eBay. Made a nice chunk of change that bought some parts for the '71.

 

[mbrew2]

I replaced my edelbrock with a Summit carb and now its a whole different car. It came almost perfectly set up except for the idle mixture which I adjusted with the help of a vacuum gauge. Starts every time, hot or cold, and has excellent throttle response. Edelbrock was a nitemare for me, rich one day, lean the next, terrible heat soak hot start issues. Also be aware that edelbrock carbs are more sensitive to fuel pressure than  most others. Their owners manual says 6.5 lbs max. May have been part of my problem because my stock fuel pump was putting out almost 8 lbs. 600 cfm Summit has been great!

 

[turtle5353]

Thanks for all the input fellas. He dropped of the car yesterday and decided he would like to go with a new intake, carb, and headers. For the intake I will probably stick with the Edelbrock Performer. For the headers either the Hooker Competition or the Patriot. After talking to a few of you, it seems both will fit nicely with power steering and a 3 speed manual trans. Any input on the two?? links below.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8412-1

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6921-1hkr/overview/year/1971/make/ford/model/mustang/submodel/mach-i

 I have narrowed the carbs down to a few. What do you guys think??

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80670/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80783c/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-sl-600-vs/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-br-67256/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-hr-680-vs/overview/

 

[jpaz]

What ever you do, do Not get that Holley street avenger. It’s not a good carb. Either the first one from summit or one of the Quick fuel carbs. I think the HR 680 carb a great choice. He will really notice a big difference.

 

[turtle5353]

What ever you do, do Not get that Holley street avenger. It’s not a good carb. Either the first one from summit or one of the Quick fuel carbs. I think the HR 680 carb a great choice. He will really notice a big difference.

Thanks for the input..... now that you say it, I do remember hearing bad things about the avenger carb!!  I am also leaning more towards the  Quick Fuel HR 680.

 

[jpaz]

What ever you do, do Not get that Holley street avenger. It’s not a good carb. Either the first one from summit or one of the Quick fuel carbs. I think the HR 680 carb a great choice. He will really notice a big difference.

Thanks for the input..... now that you say it, I do remember hearing bad things about the avenger carb!!  I am also leaning more towards the  Quick Fuel HR 680.

Ya the SA carb needs holes drilled in the butterflies, really hard to get set up and then it’s still not that great. I got the QF HR 735 VS and really like it.

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd lean towards the Summit carb, mainly for the fact it has a single piece body with fewer places to leak than the typical Holley.

I know the Hookers fit just fine, no experience with Patriot. Given that their website is completely useless and devoid of any tech info, I'd take a hard pass on them.  The 71-73 clutch linkage is kind of unique and fits with very few headers. The catalog I finally found shows they say it'll work, but given that their applications seem a bit wonky, and they're calling out a PS drop bracket for 71-3, I wouldn't trust that info as far as I could throw it.

patriot.pdf

 

[turtle5353]

I'd lean towards the Summit carb, mainly for the fact it has a single piece body with fewer places to leak than the typical Holley.

I know the Hookers fit just fine, no experience with Patriot. Given that their website is completely useless and devoid of any tech info, I'd take a hard pass on them.  The 71-73 clutch linkage is kind of unique and fits with very few headers. The catalog I finally found shows they say it'll work, but given that their applications seem a bit wonky, and they're calling out a PS drop bracket for 71-3, I wouldn't trust that info as far as I could throw it.

Thanks for the input. Does your car have a clutch linkage? And the Hookers fit well? The reason I listed the Patriot headers also was because David had firsthand experience with them on one of his cars that came with a 351 2v and 3 speed manual. He said they seem to fit well. And it seems like all the headers on summits sight say they wont work with PS. Thanks again for all your input on this thread!  I know its been beat to death but I just want to make sure I get the best parts I can for this guy!

 

[turtle5353]

Here’s my shopping list so far.  



cornucopia hunger games catching fire

 

[73pony]

See link. These are much better header gaskets.

http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/99.htm

 

[turtle5353]

See link. These are much better header gaskets.

http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/99.htm

What type of material are they? I have always had very good luck with Copper header gaskets.  No leaks and reusable.  I have reused mine atleast a half dozen times so far.

Everything else on list look ok??

 

[73pony]

Here is the info on the construction of the remflex gaskets. It is a flexible graphite material. They are really good.

http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/154.htm

Rest of list looks good.

 

[Canted 393]

X2 on remflex gaskets, just a thought on carb studs I like these there stainless and have an allen head in case of removal later.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-85-500/overview/

 

[Hemikiller]

Never had an issue with the gaskets supplied with the Hookers on a Cleveland. I used, and re-used them, for many years. Trick was Ultra Copper sealant. A smear on both sides of each port, let it set up for 10 mins, install and let cure.

Before you install the headers, pre-clearance the tubes with a header bolt and a socket. Slip the bolt into the flange bolt hole then slide a socket over the bolt. If it's all wonky off on an angle, smack the socket with a hammer to clearance the pipe. You can install about 80% of the bolts with a socket and ratchet, the remainder you'll have to use a wrench. First time I installed a set, my Chevy and Pontiac friend were blown away how easily they went in.

Partial to ARP studs, the bullet nose makes life easier.

https://www.summitracing.com///parts/arp-300-2401?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-arp&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdHhBRCwARIsAAhRhsljO-LH-UZ1LAeTHxH5vqQqUorXkN0i35_PcjWwncgSdoyB7uXc1c0aAvNWEALw_wcB

 

[tony-muscle]

You can save the $40 and use the ones that come with the headers. At least mine came with gaskets.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[73pony]

Yeah mine did too. Blew the gasket out after about 1,200 miles. Put on the Remflex and never looked back.

 

[barnett468]

See link. These are much better header gaskets.

http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/99.htm

What type of material are they? I have always had very good luck with Copper header gaskets.  No leaks and reusable.  I have reused mine atleast a half dozen times so far.

Everything else on list look ok??

since you have used copper gaskets and had good luck you could certainly try them again. as far as the "compressible" non metal gaskets go, remflex are by far the beast as others have mentioned.

you could also try the aluminum compressible gaskets if you want.

.