1972 Mustang Coupe 302

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Talk to midlife and make the decision you are most comfortable with. Aftermarket harnesses are not to difficult but they will require some splicing to fit specific connections on any car. Ours included. I would add that if midlife thinks your harness is savable it will already have all of the factory terminals and will go back just as it came out. It is a tedious process, but can teach you a lot about your car as you undertake the adventure. If you go that route I would plan for a period of downtime that may lead into other work and it goes on and on and on.... Just focus on the task of wiring and make the list of other things for future. If you take the dash out which I would recommend. Take the time to restore that out of the car. Very doable. Document everything in disassembly with pictures and bag & tag. Like will be easier after.
 
Just an update for all following the build. Took a couple hours yesterday (after a day of endless meetings) and spent some detail time with the car. Initially all seems to be pretty solid operationally, which is the biggest weight off the list. I replaced the transmission filter, oil filter, plugs, battery and a majority of the hoses that were substantially in need of replacement. Also put in a new Edelbrock carb and air cleaner. She is running really strong (fingers crossed) and the engine tick that it came with it was indeed just an oil issue...not anything more and was solved with the oil swap out. Not sure when the last oil change was done, but it would appear it had been a hot minute. Next up will be the brakes and most likely a new exhaust system, which also needs to be replaced. Also going to have to address all new weatherstripping...as that's shot as well.

One of the main issues I'm going to have to address when I sand her down is going to be two significant spots of rust damage. There are a lot of small surface rust issues that can be sanded out, but these two spots are pretty brutal at first glance. You can see in the pictures, there are two fairly large spots that I am either going to have to replace completely...or (gasp) address with some filler. I know the B-word is an unspoken sin, but at the end of the day (and as mentioned) I am not building this for show or some significant sale. She's gonna be my fun-ride until either she breaks down or I do. So I'm not overly concerned with a little bondo repair here and there, but I have yet to really clean the spots up and investigate more thoroughly. It might be significant enough where I have to replace the panels ( a little out of my wheelhouse) before I set the garage up to paint her fully. If anyone has any other suggestions or opinions on this...by all means fire away. I'm not a pro restorer...so I'm doing a lot of this on my own and through trial and error. I know my way around engines, but bodywork, painting, wiring...there are quite a few areas I am living off of youtube videos to conquer.

Once I get the engine cleaned up and everything back in order, I'll update with more pics. But again, from the initial diagnosis, she appears to be in much better condition than I would have expected and anticipated. More to come.

[Edit on this] - to clarify, I am not necessarily a proponent of filler, however in this situation, I have two options (one being more pricey) to choose from on a car that doesn't need to be show-perfect. I can go into these spots, wire brush them down, use some rust encapsulator, fill the holes with filler, sand them down, then prime and paint (cost-effective and within my abilities) or I can have these sections professionally welded with new material and done, with a substantial cost increase added to my running tab. Unless I am missing something, those seem to be the options...and obviously I am leaning towards doing it myself. Again, input welcome.

PBR
Old cars have hidden surprises. One suggestion is to look into how much it would cost to fix it. You can remove the interior and the windshield glass yourself to save on labor costs. (So you can weld in a new piece without the car catching on fire.) Get professional advice or pay an experienced bodyman to make sure it is repaired correctly. You may be planning on a new windshield and interior anyway
 
12/20 update: Starting to see the transformation now. Amazing what a new set of wheels does, even without the Magnums here yet. Took her out for a pretty big stroll today, including the freeway. She hauls. Tomorrow we're stripping the rest of the paint, repriming the whole car and then she's going to a guy to repair the rear window.
 

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I sent my harness to midlife and he did a great job once I reassembled the vehicle all the electrical worked so I am a happy customer.
I have always installed all new harnesses in my other cars, but they are GM cars and there are vendors that make complete exact harnesses, and they are readily available pretty inexpensively. Unfortunately, those factory correct harnesses were not available for my car, painless makes harness kits but those are more universal and need connectors completed and so forth. I have used their harnesses on race cars and other vehicle that needed rewires and they worked well, but I did not want that on this car. Fortunately, I heard about midlife, and he did a great job and added into the factory wiring for the tach and console clock that I wanted to add to the car. Everything just plugged in and worked, which is all I was hoping for.
 
12/20 update: Starting to see the transformation now. Amazing what a new set of wheels does, even without the Magnums here yet. Took her out for a pretty big stroll today, including the freeway. She hauls. Tomorrow we're stripping the rest of the paint, repriming the whole car and then she's going to a guy to repair the rear window.
There is nothing like a new set of rubber to improve the ride of your car for sure.
 
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