1973 Mustang Convertible Restoration and Modification

[mach71351c]

Slowly but surely progress is made.

I removed the tappets and, with some difficulty and a cheater bar, loosened the head bolts. I then pried the heads off with a small pry bar, being careful not to mar any mating surfaces.

First, the driver's side

Then the passenger side

Looks pretty empty with everything removed

Lots of sludge in there, probably from using a non-detergent oil like they did years ago. I took the heads down to the school auto shop as a project for the high school kids. They're excited, and the shop teacher promised to watch them closely.

Next up, remove and clean oil pan, swap out the cams, and start ordering new intake and exhaust manifold, carb, etc.

Doc if I can make a suggestion stop using Fram oil filters. I have seen them split for no reason. I have seen 4 deferent cars loose oil pressure. I kid you not i told my buddy about Fram filters he lost oil pressure the same day, he said he used them for years. Changed oil on my own car let it idle then heard a pop new oil all over driveway. Mike

 

[machman_73]

Slowly but surely progress is made.

I removed the tappets and, with some difficulty and a cheater bar, loosened the head bolts. I then pried the heads off with a small pry bar, being careful not to mar any mating surfaces.

First, the driver's side

Then the passenger side

Looks pretty empty with everything removed

Lots of sludge in there, probably from using a non-detergent oil like they did years ago. I took the heads down to the school auto shop as a project for the high school kids. They're excited, and the shop teacher promised to watch them closely.

Next up, remove and clean oil pan, swap out the cams, and start ordering new intake and exhaust manifold, carb, etc.

I did the same thing to mine years ago. Both heads were cracked and the oil pan was full of billet. Had to get a crank kit. The thrust ? was all chewed up. Full rebuild was required. Mark

 

[73vertproject]

Well, in order to get the water pump off, I realized that I needed to pull the harmonic balancer.

By removing the starter, I could wedge a small crowbar into the flywheel:



Then I took a small torch and a bunch of penetrating fluid to the harmonic balancer bolt, and it came loose with ease.



That's when the trouble started. I bought a harmonic balancer removal tool at the auto parts store, but the first time I used it, I didn't center it correctly and the two bolts bent at the junction of the threads and the bolt. I got 'em straightened out, but they were damaged. I started removing the HD with relative ease for many revolutions of the removal bolt, but then it got REALLY hard to torque. After a few more revolutions, one of the tool bolts broke at the damaged area. I looked to see what the problem was, and this is what I saw:



And this is the closeup:



What's going on here? Am I pulling the crank out of the block? Or am I almost finished and just need to replace the HD tool bolt and get back at it?

On another note, a sliver of metal from the very outer top edge of the combustion chamber came loose



If you can see it next to my ring finger, it's as thin as an electric guitar string. Is this a major concern, or just something that happens and the head gasket compensates for?

Hopefully, things will work out soon.

 

[coilwire]

Doc, just my 2c worth but with metal fragments if it was me I would feel safer doing a complete trea down. From your pics it looks like the HB. should be just about out. You are not pulling the crank out that is the shaft from the HB .

Jim

 

[droptop73]

What you see on the balancer is the "sleeve" the seal rides on. It's part of the balancer. as for the sliver from the block was it attached, did it leave a void in the block deck surface?

 

[coilwire]

Doc, just my 2c worth but with those metal fragments if was me I would do a complete tear down and clean up. You are not pulling the crank out from your pics it looks like the HB should be just about out. That is the shaft for the HB.

Jim

 

[73vertproject]

Well, that sounds like great news, guys. I may just go get another bolt and see if I can finish up tonight. More on the metal sliver that is still attached to the block in the next update. (Feeling much better now).

 

[machman_73]

With the front cover trying to come off at the same time as the HB it may be binding. Mark

 

[Qcode351mach]

Well, in order to get the water pump off, I realized that I needed to pull the harmonic balancer.

By removing the starter, I could wedge a small crowbar into the flywheel:

Then I took a small torch and a bunch of penetrating fluid to the harmonic balancer bolt, and it came loose with ease.

That's when the trouble started. I bought a harmonic balancer removal tool at the auto parts store, but the first time I used it, I didn't center it correctly and the two bolts bent at the junction of the threads and the bolt. I got 'em straightened out, but they were damaged. I started removing the HD with relative ease for many revolutions of the removal bolt, but then it got REALLY hard to torque. After a few more revolutions, one of the tool bolts broke at the damaged area. I looked to see what the problem was, and this is what I saw:

And this is the closeup:

What's going on here? Am I pulling the crank out of the block? Or am I almost finished and just need to replace the HD tool bolt and get back at it?

On another note, a sliver of metal from the very outer top edge of the combustion chamber came loose

If you can see it next to my ring finger, it's as thin as an electric guitar string. Is this a major concern, or just something that happens and the head gasket compensates for?

Hopefully, things will work out soon.

Your not pulling the crank out of the block...Whats worked for me in the past is to pull a bit out remove the puller then tap back in with a block of wood...then pull back out..tap back in...Keep repeating Till you get it out..Look at the old head gasket that sliver could be from the metal on the gasket (You hope) If it's from the block You can lightly smooth out the edge of the bore with a piece of 180 then 220. Also tap the timing gear case cover FLAT to the block the seal could be putting a bind on your pulling operations

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Yikes! Looks nice and goooooie!

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Doc, I could be wrong, but the water pump should come off without having to pull the HB. Hope you got ir worked out!

 

[73vertproject]

After a knucklehead mistake of not completely removing the Harmonic Balancer bolt before trying to pull it off the crankshaft, I got my brain re-engaged and it slipped right off.



From that point forward, things went pretty smoothly. The water pump is mated to the timing chain cover, so that's why I had to pull the HB to get the water pump off. This is what it looks like after getting them off, and then removing the hood latch assembly and bracket so that I could pull the transmission cooler out and get a clear view of the timing chain and gear.





I also got the oil pan bolts removed and now I just need to figure out how to slip it out from between the crossmembers.

 

[droptop73]

Doc, the pan will not come out without lifting the engine. Since you are pulling the engine anyway wait until you get it out and things will be much easier. - Jeff

 

[Tnfastbk]

Doc, pull that thing out and stop making it hard on yourself. You know that would make your back feel a whole lot better. You know moma always said work smart not hard

 

[72HCODE]

Removing the oil pan, you can't unless you pull the engine mount bolts and raise the engine up.

You will also need to open the transmission mounts and cross member to get clearance.

The oil pickup will be in the way so you need to remove the pan carefully.

If you just want to change the hardware out then you don't have to remove the pan

It is possible to change the oil pan gasket with a 2 piece but it's possible it will leak.

 

[71_badmach]

Seems like in our house, it was always just hard work! x2 though on yanking the engine out vs crawling on the floor... an engine stand is what, about $50 at Harbor Freight?

 

[73vertproject]

Well, after some slow going (my wife says I'm slow. I prefer to call myself methodical ) I've got the engine out and disassembled.

I had to remove the torque converter with the engine because I stripped two of the TC bolts:



So I borrowed an engine hoist and engine stand and went to work:







With the engine on the stand, I followed the trusty Haynes Ford Engine Overhaul manual and began taking things apart. I started with the pistons:





And then removed the crankshaft and camshaft, which were pretty straight forward. Note: keep a good grip on the crankshaft, because it's pretty hefty.





I noticed a large sliver and a couple small pieces of of metal fall out of the 3rd camshaft journal, or whatever it's called, and I see a lot of metal damage to that bearing surface (or whatever it's called) on the cam, so I'll make sure I mention that to the machine shop to give them a heads up.

Next up: take the block to the machine shop for mic-ing (measuring all the tolerances), machining (if necessary) and a nice hot bath. Then shift into reverse and put everything back together. Can't believe I've made it this far!!

 

[OLE PONY]

It pays to be methodical and it looks like you are taking plenty of pictures to help with reassembly if you need them! Keep us posted.

 

[whitesoc]

Looking good so far Doc, Did you pick up a new set of rings?

Ken

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks, Mike and Ken. I'm going to wait to buy rings until I get the measurements for the cylinders, in case I have to hone them and need to buy oversize rings or pistons. I'll let you know what I find. Doc