2V carb

[midlife]

1. No clue...did the key change position?

2. Yes...avoid doing that if you are using points and/or a resistor wire.

3. Use the green/red wire going to the VR. Your bulb is dim because the bulb reads the difference between alternator voltage and ignition voltage. If there's enough difference, the bulb will be dim.

Removing fuses from fuseblock: Use this tool for the larger fuses; use a smal screwdriver for the smallest fuse.

Fuse puller can be found at WallyWorld: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Littelfuse-LITTELFUSE-097023-Fuse-Puller-Automotive-Glass-ATO-MINI/40854993

 

[jbojo]

If key is in the run position voltage should be at the solenoid. Power goes through fuse F6 which should be a 15A one.

 

[naa10104]

If key is in the run position voltage should be at the solenoid. Power goes through fuse F6 which should be a 15A one.

Thanks very much ... let you know what I find out.

Steve

1. No clue...did the key change position?

2. Yes...avoid doing that if you are using points and/or a resistor wire.

3. Use the green/red wire going to the VR. Your bulb is dim because the bulb reads the difference between alternator voltage and ignition voltage. If there's enough difference, the bulb will be dim.

Removing fuses from fuseblock: Use this tool for the larger fuses; use a smal screwdriver for the smallest fuse.

Fuse puller can be found at WallyWorld: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Littelfuse-LITTELFUSE-097023-Fuse-Puller-Automotive-Glass-ATO-MINI/40854993

Hello ... using the pertronix breakerless ignition with a 40K coil.

So the grn/red wire I am speaking of is the one that formerly plugged into the VR harness at the original VR. I now have a wire coming from the one wire alternator attached to the Grn/Red to activate the dash Idiot light.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[jbojo]

Which alternator did you buy?

 

[naa10104]

Which alternator did you buy?

A Tuff Stuff 7068 one wire ... it has a plug in the back that you can remove to access a two blade connector. I think I tied into the right blade to run the alternator idiot light, and it does work properly.

 

[naa10104]

Which alternator did you buy?

A Tuff Stuff 7068 one wire ... it has a plug in the back that you can remove to access a two blade connector. I think I tied into the right blade to run the alternator idiot light, and it does work properly.

There was a blown fuse ... the reason for no power to the solenoid wire. Everything is fixed and I used the solenoid wire for the switched source for the choke. Seems to be working well. Thanks again for all the advice !!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

If the solenoid is not working, you can access the wires and resolder them. Sometimes people try to adjust them by turning them in or our without connecting the wires. Also they generally will not lift the throttle on their own, but will pop up when the throttle is depressed-when using one you must caress the throttle pedal a bit after the key is on before starting a hot car.

You may know all this, but even so, perhaps it will help some other reader

 

[naa10104]

If the solenoid is not working, you can access the wires and resolder them. Sometimes people try to adjust them by turning them in or our without connecting the wires. Also they generally will not lift the throttle on their own, but will pop up when the throttle is depressed-when using one you must caress the throttle pedal a bit after the key is on before starting a hot car.

You may know all this, but even so, perhaps it will help some other reader

Thanks for the info. I already sourced a NOS solenoid, but don't think I will replace it. The original one I have has not worked in almost two years and I have never had a "dieseling" or run on issue. That is what the solenoid was originally for. When I turn the car off it shuts off with no issues. Thanks again to all for the info.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

They are really unnecessary for many applications.