rob73stang
Member
the only racing he will be doing is few trips to dragstrip .... he is just looking for little more then stock . headers and cam and intake ... nothing wild if im helping foot the bill .....
351 ceveland 2v
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sounds like it might be a family thing....like father .....
I thought all of the v8 cars came with a 9"??
If you are just looking for 'a little more' then I would go with a Edelbrock dual plane, a holley 600cfm, dual exhaust (headers hang down pretty low so if you go with headers you have to deal with that) and 3.0 gears in the rear. And an upgraded distributor. That will wake the motor up a little, keep the nice drivability, not hurt the gas milage too bad and the car will be a blast to drive. Call it 'phase 1'. Probably get you into the upper 14's or lower 15.
It also keeps the cost/labor down. Once you start swapping cams the work increases. If you go with the above and 'still want more' you won't have to toss away any of what you did and then you can look at swapping the cam/springs/valves/rockers/lifters/timing chain/timing cover (you are in there anyways) and headers. A little more agressive gear might not be a bad idea. That's going to be about twice to three times as much as what you spent on 'phase 1'. This will gain you another second or so depending on how agressive you went with the cam. Call this phase 2
Next step is to look at higher compression heads (aussie/aftermarked/4v). Head work, new rockers and maybe guide. A higher speed stall converter, a more agressive cam and all that goes along with it. You might be looking at oiling mods once you get to this level (lots of opinions). The two bolt block can handle a fair amount of RPM so you won't have to do too much to the bottom end.
This might grab you around another 1/2 second. (It gets harder the faster you are already going). Tranny upgrades and a taller gear might be in order. Also you will need to start looking at the suspension. Traction bars, subframe connectors, upgraded brakes, tires. If you went with 4v heads you will need to spend money on a different intake and headers. If you keep the 2v heads there might be some porting work involved.
After that the costs start to really increase for the additional speed.
This is just some Saturday night bench racing rambling... not directed at anyone specific. Kinda supports the 'know what you really want motif of the thread'. The phase 1/phase 2 is fairly safe approach. After that you end up 're purchasing' upgraded parts.
Speed is money... how fast do you want to spend.
If you are just looking for 'a little more' then I would go with a Edelbrock dual plane, a holley 600cfm, dual exhaust (headers hang down pretty low so if you go with headers you have to deal with that) and 3.0 gears in the rear. And an upgraded distributor. That will wake the motor up a little, keep the nice drivability, not hurt the gas milage too bad and the car will be a blast to drive. Call it 'phase 1'. Probably get you into the upper 14's or lower 15.
It also keeps the cost/labor down. Once you start swapping cams the work increases. If you go with the above and 'still want more' you won't have to toss away any of what you did and then you can look at swapping the cam/springs/valves/rockers/lifters/timing chain/timing cover (you are in there anyways) and headers. A little more agressive gear might not be a bad idea. That's going to be about twice to three times as much as what you spent on 'phase 1'. This will gain you another second or so depending on how agressive you went with the cam. Call this phase 2
Next step is to look at higher compression heads (aussie/aftermarked/4v). Head work, new rockers and maybe guide. A higher speed stall converter, a more agressive cam and all that goes along with it. You might be looking at oiling mods once you get to this level (lots of opinions). The two bolt block can handle a fair amount of RPM so you won't have to do too much to the bottom end.
This might grab you around another 1/2 second. (It gets harder the faster you are already going). Tranny upgrades and a taller gear might be in order. Also you will need to start looking at the suspension. Traction bars, subframe connectors, upgraded brakes, tires. If you went with 4v heads you will need to spend money on a different intake and headers. If you keep the 2v heads there might be some porting work involved.
After that the costs start to really increase for the additional speed.
This is just some Saturday night bench racing rambling... not directed at anyone specific. Kinda supports the 'know what you really want motif of the thread'. The phase 1/phase 2 is fairly safe approach. After that you end up 're purchasing' upgraded parts.
Speed is money... how fast do you want to spend.
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I edited my post and started pontificating while you were replying.
. 3.50 gears are pretty agressive if you are doing much highway driving.- Joined
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I believe Will has "nailed it" with his comments relative to working the issue in phases. I also believe "Dad" is on the right track. Based on your comments, this would be my approach (if I were you).
I would first change out the exhaust manifolds for a nice set of headers, mated to the dual exhaust system. This WILL immediately give you an increase in that "seat of the pants" feeling and a "different" sound.
I would then improve the ignition by getting rid of the points and going to some type of electronic setup.
After becoming comfortable with those changes, I would then look at upgrading the Intake with some type of weight-saving aluminum intake (dual plane) and the appropriate carburetor. In choosing the carburetor, I would be thinking about the next step...the camshaft and kit.
Next would be a camshaft (and kit) change, along with the appropriate rear end gearing change. Most camshaft companies will have recommendations for what gearing and transmission to utilize with their different camshaft. This is where a LOT of research will be involved with consideration given to the size of the wheels/tires I will be using and what characteristics I want from the cam (the brains of the application).
Quite frankly, most changes after this gets into "race car" territory.
Enjoy the Ride!
BT
I would first change out the exhaust manifolds for a nice set of headers, mated to the dual exhaust system. This WILL immediately give you an increase in that "seat of the pants" feeling and a "different" sound.
I would then improve the ignition by getting rid of the points and going to some type of electronic setup.
After becoming comfortable with those changes, I would then look at upgrading the Intake with some type of weight-saving aluminum intake (dual plane) and the appropriate carburetor. In choosing the carburetor, I would be thinking about the next step...the camshaft and kit.
Next would be a camshaft (and kit) change, along with the appropriate rear end gearing change. Most camshaft companies will have recommendations for what gearing and transmission to utilize with their different camshaft. This is where a LOT of research will be involved with consideration given to the size of the wheels/tires I will be using and what characteristics I want from the cam (the brains of the application).
Quite frankly, most changes after this gets into "race car" territory.
Enjoy the Ride!
BT
mus72
Well-known member
ok here's my idea comp 270 plus kit ie roller rockers springs etc , wieland xcellerator, 650 dp and headers and use a c4 instead oh and a good dizzy.
Double pumper will kinda kill the mileage aspect.
Play around with different combos on Comps camquest site. http://www.camquest.com/
a 268H will let you use a stock converter, and has about a 1500-5500 rpm range. With a dual plane and 600 cfm carb, headers and duals, it nets this on their estimate dyno:
Not a bad street motor.
Play around with different combos on Comps camquest site. http://www.camquest.com/
a 268H will let you use a stock converter, and has about a 1500-5500 rpm range. With a dual plane and 600 cfm carb, headers and duals, it nets this on their estimate dyno:
Not a bad street motor.
I run the 270H and it is lopey at idle (especially when cold). It's not too bad once it is warmed up but I also run Rhodes lifters to help. The Rhodes do the job but they are noisey. I run a stock converter (need to swap that out for sure). The comparison stops there since I have 4v cc heads.
As a general rule the double pumpers are more suited to racing applications. I don't have any real experience on this I only know what I have read.
As a general rule the double pumpers are more suited to racing applications. I don't have any real experience on this I only know what I have read.
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I think the kid is trying to go fast on a budget remember those days? All are good ideas but the kicker is can you find 351c speed parts in Ireland? If you come to the states you can find great deals or ask questions here there are alot of us that have a stash pile that we have acquired over the years that occasionally we clean out -the STUFF to get more STUFF!
I remember those days! My first rims were Cragar S/S that came off of a torino. I figured they would fit. THey stuck out too far, so I got some air shocks to lift up the back.I think the kid is trying to go fast on a budget remember those days? All are good ideas but the kicker is can you find 351c speed parts in Ireland? If you come to the states you can find great deals or ask questions here there are alot of us that have a stash pile that we have acquired over the years that occasionally we clean out -the STUFF to get more STUFF!
Next was a dual point followed by a used 3310 on top of a used edelbrock....
Mmmmmm isnt that a single plane manifold? I going to be pushing allmost 425 hp..And im not even thinking about a single plane mainifold.
Weiand Xcelerator 2v. It’s a single plane, open plenum, intake and comes essentially pre-ported with intake runners that are larger than stock 2V head ports. For best performance, this intake requires port-matching to the heads<~~~ from what im reading..Thats waaaaay too much mainfold for your build....You would have to port your heads and everything to make it work right...And its for high preformance 4v and 2v aussie heads...Your better off getting a edelbrock dual plane.
rob73stang
Member
im thinking gonna go with edelbrock intake , 650 holley carb , i do have a edelbrock carb but never liked the carter afb carbs ... slight bigger cam just to give little lope in idle and headers ... phase 1.....
{thumbs up} perfict for your 2v cleveland.
mus72
Well-known member
Just throwing out a few ideas guys I thought he wanted to race occasionly; a higher stall converter would liven her up a bit.
I would also check your compression before you go any further and whatever you do have fun doing it.
I would also check your compression before you go any further and whatever you do have fun doing it.
Good plan. Race occasionly and street car means you are sacrificing one for the other and will be unhappy with both.
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my input for an intake manifold would be the Edelbrock air gap. The best bang for your buck I think. Unless you want to run the car with factory ram air of course. But When it came to my engine I decided I would rather have the extra hp's from the air gap instead of the ram air. I had a 50HP gain from the stock 4v intake to the ram air. {I have the dyno pulls to prove it} So if you want a fast and easy way for more punch this intake is the way to go. This intake has had some of the best reviews for street and strip intakes. It will be great with a 650 or 750 cfm carb.
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