351C 2v Upgrade

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godwin25

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Jun 3, 2014
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My Car
1972 Mustang Grande
I am new here and being only 17 a little inexperienced on engines and things. Last night I bought a '72 Mustang Grande with a 351c 2v in it. What I am wondering is what can I do to get the most bang for my buck performance wise? I have a about a $1500 budget to work with and a little knowledge and access to a few people with good mechanical skills. Any help would be appreciated.

 
I would start out with thoroughly checking the brakes and suspension. At this point those are more important before you go fast. And, get all of the fluids changed.

Use the rest of your budget on performance upgrades. If it still has the 2-barrel carb I would put a 4-barrel carb and manifold on and 2.5" dual exhaust. I wouldn't worry about headers until you get a more aggressive cam.

 
I would start out with thoroughly checking the brakes and suspension. At this point those are more important before you go fast. And, get all of the fluids changed.

Use the rest of your budget on performance upgrades. If it still has the 2-barrel carb I would put a 4-barrel carb and manifold on and 2.5" dual exhaust. I wouldn't worry about headers until you get a more aggressive cam.
Forgot to mention it does have true dual exhaust already. All brake work was done about 3 months ago and the suspension seems to be in pretty good shape. Any suggestions on a manifold and carb set-up?

 
I really like the Edelbrock Performer intake. It bolts right up to your 2V heads, but allows a 4bbl carb. I went with Edelbrock Thunder Series 650 CFM.

What transmission and rear end gears do you have? Depending on the tranny, there are things you might be able to do with the rear end that will give you more bang for the buck than swapping intake and carb

 
+1 on the Edelbrock Performer intake. I went with an Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb as well.

If you haven't already, look into upgrading the distributor, coil, plugs, and wires. There are lots of options out there, including aftermarket performance dizzies (MSD is a favorite), conversion set-ups (Duraspark or Pertronix, for instance), or even just sticking with the stock set-up and refreshing the internals. This can be a relatively cheap upgrade (depending on what you go with) that provides some reliability and a little bit more power. Usually runs a couple hundred $$.

Cam, lifters, push-rods, rocker arms, valve springs, valve job, and port/polish mated up to a good exhaust system. Helps the gases and whatnot flow better and quicker for more power - this is the heart of the engine's power-making ability, and can get expensive fast (upward of $600+).

Rear gears will make a difference as well. A 3.00:1 rear gear is a "cruising" gear for lower-end power engines & economy. Adding more power to those gears will raise your top speed while the extra power overcomes the off-the-line sluggishness somewhat. Switching out to some 3.25s or 3.54s will give you some more low-end grunt (off the line) and decrease your top speed a bit. Another couple hundred $$.

Those estimates are if you can do the work yourself. If not, you'll need to budget in the cost for a shop to do the work.

To save some more money, you might consider taking an auto shop class (if your school offers), as they usually will allow you to work on your own cars (supervised by the teacher, and the project will become a training aid as well).

Hope that helps!

 
I'm running an Edelbrock air gap intake,a canton racing 4 hole carb spacer, custom tuned eddie 600 carb, hedman longtubes, x pipe with full exhaust and duraspark ignition on my 2V. This combo makes great low end torque and pulls real hard all the way through the powerband. No regrets here.

 
I would suggest 3.25 rear gears as step #1. Then drive it a bit.

In a couple of months swap to an edelbrock Performer intake and Holley Street Avenger 670cfm carb.

Step #3 swap to an electronic distributor. There is a good thread on here for a Duraspark II swap. Cheap Ford parts and an excellent swap.

Do these three things in this order and you will be all smiles.

 
+ 1 for what Don suggested. Will wake the old girl up a but for least dollars spent. Also Kit's tip of bringing in your full dynamic advance by 1800rpm is very good advice

 
Welcome from Springdale Arkansas, post an introduction when you get a chance so everyone can give you a proper welcome...and these guys here have all the answers to any problem you can have, so now experience is just a question away.

 
I would make sure that the stock components are serviceable and properly adjusted (compression or leak down test, plugs are good and properly gapped, spark plug wires resistance checked, point gap is correct, timing is set properly, and carburetor is set correctly, brakes aren't dragging etc.). Once all of that is good, add 4 degrees of advance to the initial timing, use the manual specified procedure. When all of that is correct and you still want more response from the loud pedal, do as others suggested, install a numerically higher rear gear ratio. Since you are 17, I will assume this is your only car. If that is true, the 3.25:1 DonC suggested is probably as high as you want to go. If you plan on keeping the car, spend the extra money to have a traction-lok installed at the same time. If you increase the power later you will be glad you did. Welcome to the site and good luck. Chuck

 
My advice on the ignition upgrade is to stay away from Pro Comp distributors (sold by Summit among other vendors) I had a 68 Mustang at work with a 302 and a Pro Comp distributor that was brand new and the pick up was defective. This caused some tension with the owner who would not believe my diagnosis. I am running a stock Ford distributor with single diaphragm vacuum advance,Pertronix and an MSD 6A box. I have put over 45K miles over 20 years with this set up without any issues on my Cleveland. Best of luck with your new baby.

Ron

 
My advice on the ignition upgrade is to stay away from Pro Comp distributors (sold by Summit among other vendors) I had a 68 Mustang at work with a 302 and a Pro Comp distributor that was brand new and the pick up was defective. This caused some tension with the owner who would not believe my diagnosis. I am running a stock Ford distributor with single diaphragm vacuum advance,Pertronix and an MSD 6A box. I have put over 45K miles over 20 years with this set up without any issues on my Cleveland. Best of luck with your new baby.

Ron

Excellent advice.

 
What is the performance difference between spacer or no spacer and 4 hole to 1 hole?

 
I'm thinking the 4-hole [spacer] would extend the venturi effect a little more (decreasing turbulence) for a slightly better mix. Just pulled that out of my butt, though. ;)

Any spacer on top of an air-gap Edelbrock would pose a challenge to maintaining factory Ram Air, I would think.

 
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