Pulling the trigger on my 351C rebuild

[1973 Mach-1]

I don't know what part of Phoenix you're in, but there's a great guy near me, if you need a great all-over honest shop for when you get your ride together.
His specialty is older fords, like ours.

Address: Kelly Castle Automotive 15681 N Cave Creek Rd #1, Phoenix, AZ 85032
Phone: (602) 430-6616

 

[PeteG41]

It's a good idea to get to know your machinist. Also, check with the local car clubs for recommendations. There used to be a big cruise in event in the East Valley that would be a good place to meet gearheads and ask about machine shops. Just take any word-of-mouth advice with a grain of salt. See if any shops' names keep coming up as standouts. Oh, take a notepad and write the names of these shops down. Easier than trying to recall them later!

If you're a military vet Ferrea Racing offers a really nice discount on their valves and associated components. Be sure the valve springs match your camshaft.

The crank will need to be checked by your machinist. If it needs turning and can be done without going too far under, then have it done. No need to replace it in this case.

Also, if you're going for a mild performance rebuild and having your trans rebuilt, be sure to match the converter's stall to your cam and rear gears. Lots of info on this can be found on performance transmission company websites. Doing this will help you have a complete powertrain/driveline that works together.

Stopped by the shop this afternoon, definitely looks like a great spot. Had a 67 fastback on the rack, 68 fastback on the ground, and they were in the middle of working on a 70 fastback outside. Along with countless 65-68 coupes on the lot. Went through the whole rundown and this is the spec sheet he put together for me. With the FMX rebuild/upgrades, we will also be doing a 2k stall converter to match the cam. I’ll be doing 3.5 gears shortly afterwards. now I just need to find some headers to take with meAnd shortly after I will be putting in 3.5 gears.

 

[PeteG41]

I don't know what part of Phoenix you're in, but there's a great guy near me, if you need a great all-over honest shop for when you get your ride together.
His specialty is older fords, like ours.

Address: Kelly Castle Automotive 15681 N Cave Creek Rd #1, Phoenix, AZ 85032
Phone: (602) 430-6616

Awesome thank you! I might give him a shout. Had to go in and edit this, didn’t see the part where you mentioned this shop after getting my ride together. I’m certain the suspension components will all need to be gone through, so I’ll look him up for that!

 

[Ron Tanzi]

Stopped by the shop this afternoon, definitely looks like a great spot. Had a 67 fastback on the rack, 68 fastback on the ground, and they were in the middle of working on a 70 fastback outside. Along with countless 65-68 coupes on the lot. Went through the whole rundown and this is the spec sheet he put together for me. With the FMX rebuild/upgrades, we will also be doing a 2k stall converter to match the cam. I’ll be doing 3.5 gears shortly afterwards. now I just need to find some headers to take with meView attachment 71305And shortly after I will be putting in 3.5 gears.

I do not see any mention of replacement valves, valve seats, valve seals and valve guides in the quote. Did they offer you an alternative to Comp cams products? The cam they listed has the same specs as the cam I put in my engine 20 years ago with the only difference being that yours will be 110* of lobe separation while mine is 112* I am looking at my cam card as I write this. It must be Comp's go-to Cleveland cam.
Ron

 

[Cleveland Crush]

As a side note, remember to ask about their warranty.

 

[PeteG41]

I do not see any mention of replacement valves, valve seats, valve seals and valve guides in the quote. Did they offer you an alternative to Comp cams products? The cam they listed has the same specs as the cam I put in my engine 20 years ago with the only difference being that yours will be 110* of lobe separation while mine is 112* I am looking at my cam card as I write this. It must be Comp's go-to Cleveland cam.
Ron

I actually just called on that because I saw the springs/keeps/retainers being replaced. Once they get in there they will check to see the shape of the current valves and whether or not they should be replaced. He didn’t mention a different brand than Comp, but yes I would agree that it seems to be the go to. Also, 1 year warranty on parts and labor. I’m going to buy tires/headers and take them in with the car. They are also going to redo the exhaust for me as well, since it’s currently single outlet. Nothing fancy, and dump it behind the axle. All in all looking at $9500ish, removal and install included.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Consider using aftermarket aluminum heads as an option based on how your factory heads look after teardown. If the factory heads need extensive work aftermarket maybe viable way to go.

 

[PeteG41]

Consider using aftermarket aluminum heads as an option based on how your factory heads look after teardown. If the factory heads need extensive work aftermarket maybe viable way to go.

Yessir did think of that as an option based on what I hear after they get it all apart. He said he’s had instances before where motors have been brought in that at one point were previously rebuilt, and there’s pretty high end parts that’s inside that the owner wasn’t even aware of, that could be used if wanted. But the good thing is they will be able to tell me what went wrong for this to be initially parked

 

[Ron Tanzi]

I actually just called on that because I saw the springs/keeps/retainers being replaced. Once they get in there they will check to see the shape of the current valves and whether or not they should be replaced. He didn’t mention a different brand than Comp, but yes I would agree that it seems to be the go to. Also, 1 year warranty on parts and labor. I’m going to buy tires/headers and take them in with the car. They are also going to redo the exhaust for me as well, since it’s currently single outlet. Nothing fancy, and dump it behind the axle. All in all looking at $9500ish, removal and install included.

If your valves are original there is no question that they should be replaced. Period. The majority of guys on the forum will most certainly concur that the original valves are a ticking time bomb. The guys doing your engine work should be aware of that. I am not a fan of Comp cam products. The story behind why is long. There are many other cam options other than comp to look into before you decide. I would use a Cloyes double roller timing set for starters. I am not trying to bum you out, I am just offering information from my experience.

Ron

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Agree. If they are original valves, they gota go!

 

[basstrix]

Agree. If they are original valves, they gota go!

And replacements should be 1-piece single groove. This will drive need for new spring retainers and keepers.

Remind me, are you planning to go with 4v closed chamber heads on this build?

 

[PeteG41]

And replacements should be 1-piece single groove. This will drive need for new spring retainers and keepers.

Remind me, are you planning to go with 4v closed chamber heads on this build?

I’m staying with my 2v heads. How much should I budget extra for the valves? If you look at the quote it included springs, keeps, and retainers

 

[Ron Tanzi]

I’m staying with my 2v heads. How much should I budget extra for the valves? If you look at the quote it included springs, keeps, and retainers

Considering how much you were quoted, the new valves should have been included. The price of everything has gone up so much in the last 3 years that my high side estimate including what the shop may mark it up for good stainless valves 8 intake and 8 exhaust cost for all 16 would be roughly $350-$450.

Ron

 

[Ron Tanzi]

One more thing would be to confirm that they will install hardened exhaust valve seats as part of the head work.

Ron

 

[PeteG41]

One more thing would be to confirm that they will install hardened exhaust valve seats as part of the head work.

Ron

Yessir already wrote that down! Going to call back again and just have valves added to the quote. Little odd that they weren’t but other valve components were

 

[PeteG41]

Since you all have been super helpful so far, coming back for some header suggestions that won't break the bank. Looking on summit mostly everything I find is either 351W, or 351C but won't work with the FMX. I know you get what you pay for, but 1k for headers on top of the shop bill just isn't feasible. I am partly waiting for the responses that i'll just have to save a bit longer because there's no budget friendly, compatible LT's out there.

 

[Sheriff41]

You may want to just keep the manifolds and get a nice dual exhaust system. That allows you to avoid all the hassles of cheap headers and give yourself time to save up for a quality set of headers later. When you add the headers later your muffler shop can adapt your duals to fit the headers by making a new h-pipe. You may find the manifolds aren't a bad way to go, too!

 

[c9zx]

Look up Flow Tech headers for you application. They may be less expensive. Chuck

 

[Hemikiller]

Hooker Competition headers part # 6921 for the 2V heads are $350 at Summit. You may be able to locate a set for less money by searching Google, FB Marketplace, Craigslist etc.

FWIW, yes, they will fit with AC, power steering and your FMX.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6921hkr

 

[PeteG41]

Hooker Competition headers part # 6921 for the 2V heads are $350 at Summit. You may be able to locate a set for less money by searching Google, FB Marketplace, Craigslist etc.

FWIW, yes, they will fit with AC, power steering and your FMX.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6921hkr
View attachment 71576

That was the exact part number I googled about 20 minutes before seeing your post. I saw it on the Holley site and it showed discontinued product, but that obviously just has to be from them. Sweet! The other one I found said not compatible with PS without some sort of bracket.