- Joined
- Jan 1, 2012
- Messages
- 8,496
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- Location
- Eugene, OR
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang Sportroof M code
Changing the springs recurves the distributor, which is how soon the distributor will advance as the RPMs increase.
Boilermaster and Meyer, my apologies, what was I smoking! You don't need to take the distributor out, the slot/cam plate can be removed as Boilermaster says. I happened to have mine out and in parts. Must be getting old or something!I used one heavy factory (Ford) spring with slight freeplay and one Mr.Gasket 925D set tight.What springs should i get fir the distributor? Keep original!
I only have the 13L slot so i think i will weld and grind until i have 410”
If you do it right, you'll need to remove the gear and pull the shaft out. Make sure you mark it first so it goes back on the same way. There is a chance the roll pin hole is off center. Good luck and I/we hope you get to where you need to be with it. It looks like you have engine mods to deal with as well, so this may also affect your results. Also, just thought of this, if there is ANY side play in the shaft bushing, I suggest having it repaired or replace the distributor. DON"T buy cheap Chinese junk!!
Cardone Select has a reasonable copy of the Motorcraft but the threads are metric instead of SAE. Cardone may have a remanufactured Motorcraft in stock, worth checking, but it will likely have a 15L slot at minimum.
Geoff.
Meyer,
The distributor does NOT necessarily even have to be removed from the engine to weld up the slot.
There should be a circular felt in the breaker cam mechanism, and under that there will be a circular clip that needs to be removed, (along with the advance springs) the brealer cam can then be wiggler off of the distributor shaft.
be sure to keep the orientation of the slot and what spring went where.
you will then want to put the weaker of the 2 stock springs were the stronger spring was, and the new weaker spring where the weaker oem spring was.
be sure to clean and lubricate well.
do Not try and take the weights off, (the plastic bushings WILL break, if you can possibly find replacement bushings, go for it.
Boilermaster
Meyer, did you now re-do the idle mixture and idle speed ?I did the 10L slot initial 12 no pinging anymore stock advance springs. Now on to a afr gauge to fine tune my 670 quickfuel
Thanks everyone
Thanks and I appreciate your knowledge and experience. Hopefully, this is not getting too involved for our new friend to understand.Stanglover,
I too apologize, at the ford store when 351M/400 s were in their heyday (or not) nearly all of these engines had spark knock issues, we would take all of the slack out of the heavy spring post.
If one then swapped springs, you would immediately have a spark knock issue again.
Just force of old habits I guess.
When I was at the local pick and save salvage yard looking for useable cores, I found 3 candidates
(duraspark) they all had the heavy spring tang bent.
Boilermaster
That's awesome!! You may now be able to bump you initial to 14-16 degrees, but try 14 first. Hopefully you have an adjustable timing light available to you?I did the 10L slot initial 12 no pinging anymore stock advance springs. Now on to a afr gauge to fine tune my 670 quickfuel
Thanks everyone
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