71 convertible

[cwalker509]

Finishing up the interior quarter panels. Should be ready to install tomorrow. I removed and installed the original snaps using #4 flat head screws.

 

[cwalker509]

I did a thing.....

 

[cwalker509]

Front seats are in a long with console. I also got the parking brake sorted, flexible gas hose connected at gas tank and the rear axle vent tube installed.

 

[cwalker509]

Got brake lights working. Had two switches and both checked good before and after installation. Jumpered the plug and the lights worked. Saw someone put a piece of sheet metal on the switch face plate to take up the gap. I did that using HVAC sheet metal and bent the metal strip over at the ends to secure it and that solved the problem. Interior is all in except driver door panel. Need to install the remote mirror. Things remaining. Waiting on engine build and Dyno. Drop engine and C6 in and hook all that up. Front clip sheet metal and grille and bumper. Need to adapt standard grille wiring to deluxe grille. Replace strut rod bushings (currently polyurethane and going back to rubber, heard the stiffer material there can break parts). Need to get custom driveshaft made. Install tinmanfabricators dual exhaust plate under the transmission. Probably a few other things but getting closer. Subframe connectors installed. Repair numerous chips in my paint ....I really need to be better installing body panels and doors.

 

[cwalker509]

Been dormant a while wrt posting progress here. Got my engine dyno'd and installed. Bought the wrong headers which I just found today. Lots of custom fitting and the like. Engine turns over so electrical for that works. Still need to modify trans shift selector (should have done this BEFORE installation). Still need to hook up fuel line from tank to pump. Strange driveshaft arrives on Halloween. Total Control Products export brace and monte carlo bar ordered. I also need some type of torque strap (engine is 650/550 torque/hp).

 

[Sheriff41]

Been dormant a while wrt posting progress here. Got my engine dyno'd and installed. Bought the wrong headers which I just found today. Lots of custom fitting and the like. Engine turns over so electrical for that works. Still need to modify trans shift selector (should have done this BEFORE installation). Still need to hook up fuel line from tank to pump. Strange driveshaft arrives on Halloween. Total Control Products export brace and monte carlo bar ordered. I also need some type of torque strap (engine is 650/550 torque/hp).

Looks great! I look forward to reading your driving report.

 

[cwalker509]

Engine dyno start from a month ago. The engine pull video is too large to upload. Struggling with headers. Just found out I need to cut a hole in the rear apron for the R4 tube. Installation is today's task.

 

[cwalker509]

Got the trans lock out rod installed and working correctly. Also got the alternator tightened back up. I had to loosen it to get the header in.

 

[cwalker509]

Well....I cross threaded three header bolt holes so had to pull engine and install helicoils. Got engine back in. 7 hrs or so to install LH header, another 2 hrs for RH. Got that done last weekend and this past Monday. Got all fluids roughly topped off (had to remove radiator to pull engine). All lines hooked back up and started the car for the first time EVER since I bought it back around 1994 or 95.....and on the 60th anniversary of the Mustang as well. I posted this on facebook recently so some of you may have seen it there. Video is too large to post directly here but apparently we can embed links directly to the FB poasted video.......Warning for foul language at the end of the video.

 

[cwalker509]

Making more progress. Family coming over to help with hood install. Most things are not final located yet. RH side of bumper needs to come up a bit and LH side needs moved back. I need to source a shorter grille light connector to eliminate contact to the oil coolers. Some miscellaneous screws I misplaced are arriving today for headlight installation. Going to drive it out onto driveway this morning and move the rusty vert carcass to this garage spot (after I clean the floors). I need to organize garage a bit. I have stuff pulled from a cupla cars just piled in there (and I am getting a Mustang C6 next wkend so need to make room for that)

 

[72MustangSprint]

Looks great

Making more progress. Family coming over to help with hood install. Most things are not final located yet. RH side of bumper needs to come up a bit and LH side needs moved back. I need to source a shorter grille light connector to eliminate contact to the oil coolers. Some miscellaneous screws I misplaced are arriving today for headlight installation. Going to drive it out onto driveway this morning and move the rusty vert carcass to this garage spot (after I clean the floors). I need to organize garage a bit. I have stuff pulled from a cupla cars just piled in there (and I am getting a Mustang C6 next wkend so need to make room for that)

 

[cwalker509]

Hood on. 95% adjusted so close enough for now. Brakes are awful and trans fluid started leaking, from where is TBD. My original Shelby aircleaner does hit the hood ever so slightly so I ordered a pair of triangluar Edelbrock aircleaners. Taking it in for exhaust and will have them bleed brakes and maybe an alignment. Tires need air too and it got a tiny bit of rain before i could get it back in garage.

 

[cwalker509]

I got the grille lights completed. Documented separately on the forums here https://7173mustangs.com/threads/added-grille-lights.44811/

 

[cwalker509]

I made a pseudo hood light using some Ford parts. I found a D9 hood light that looked like the same mounting as our cars. The pigtail was not nearly long enough at around 14 inches and there was no cover on it. So I found some outer covering that looks decent and I had the plug from a scrap harness. I added some wire, plugged it in and it worked. I got some harness clips and wiring wrap and finished it up. I am happy with it (still unhappy with brakes)

 

[73pony]

Nice. Looks great.

 

[cwalker509]

I made a pseudo hood light using some Ford parts. I found a D9 hood light that looked like the same mounting as our cars. The pigtail was not nearly long enough at around 14 inches and there was no cover on it. So I found some outer covering that looks decent and I had the plug from a scrap harness. I added some wire, plugged it in and it worked. I got some harness clips and wiring wrap and finished it up. I am happy with it (still unhappy with brakes)

Someone else asked so I want to say the D9 is meant to represent a 1979 part number. I dunno if it came from a car or truck and the part number is hidden now inside the harness covering.

 

[cwalker509]

I have the next steps figured out to address the brake issues. I know some people are adamant about residual pressure check valves not being used on disc brakes unless the MC is below the calipers BUT I found someone that has fixed many problems by doing what I am going to try. Two psi RPCVs will be used between the MC and adjustable prop valve (Wilwood). Changing from the GM 4 wheel disc prop valve to an adjustable Wilwood. The pic is a mock up using an old MC to allow me to fabricate the lines. I will bend the lines already in the car or fab as needed to fit the prop valve. I will also adjust the MC to power booster rod a bit as there is a bit too much pedal free travel, seems like half to 3/4".

 

[cjstaci]

What exactly is the issue with the brakes? From what I understand rpcv won’t allow the piston to back off causing drag. If you have too much pedal travel that could be from too much clearance from the booster rod to the mstr cyl, if thats not the problem then maybe the mstr cyl piston diameter is too small.

 

[cwalker509]

I think I made some headway. Got my ps gear rebuilt and reinstalled. Had to remove and reinstall from the top or remove the LH header which took me 6 or so hours to bolt in. Gear was leaking badly. I decided on what to try next with brakes. It was not the MC piston rod. I adjusted that to nearly zero slack. The stock MC piston diameter is 1 inch for power disc brakes in 71. Corvette master cylinders from the late 60s have a 1.125 dia piston but not wanting to try that just yet, because GM but not entirely against it since rear brake conversion is GM based. So I went with a mid 70s F350/E350 master cylinder. It has a 1.25" dia MC piston and is huge compared to stock but it does fit. Got that in yesterday and bled brakes. I have 2 psi RCPVs between MC and a Wilwood adj prop valve. I led the brakes and now have a very solid pedal. The MC piston rod needed to be adjusted quite a bit shorter. There is maybe 0.25" free travel in pedal now but only maybe an inch travel to it being very firm. Have not tried them out yet since I am trying to rebuild my rag joint so steering column is dropped and not connected. I will have to see how much pedal force is required assuming the brakes actually work. I will try to post some pics of the brake arrangement. I will also take many pics and post a separate thread on the tilt column rag joint rebuild approach....if it works.

 

[cwalker509]

Got the steering column reinstalled with my rebuilt tilt rag joint (see suspension section or https://7173mustangs.com/threads/tilt-wheel-rag-join-steering-coupler-rebuild.44901/). I had my Torino in driveway and rain was starting so my efforts were cut short (tornado warning too). The car is still on jackstands and I need to adjust the Wilwood prop valve to apply more pressure to rear. It was set at minimum pressure. Brake pedal was decent with car running but unable to take it out. I may have a small leak from somewhere in the menagerie of brake lines. Pic is the ginormous F350 master cylinder.