71 convertible

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The Tu Tone looks better than most just a little shiny. How was the low plac missed?

 

[cwalker509]

The Tu Tone looks better than most just a little shiny. How was the low plac missed?

View attachment 47338

I am uncertain what you mean by "low plac"?

 

[cwalker509]

I am uncertain what you mean by "low plac"?

Just occurred to me this was probably low place meaning a low spot. I would attribute it to not blocking correctly. This is the first time I have ever painted a car....always learning. I can live with it

 

[cwalker509]

More progress.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I missed the E. Low place in the hood how was it missed when blocking?

 

[cwalker509]

It wasn't missed. I had a but of crap fall in. Whilst fixing it I did not fill and block correctly. I am always about learning 

 

[timachone]

Wow, that blue really pops, stunning color combination  :classic_ohmy:  

I ever liked blue and argent! 

Awesome color and good work on the paint. Aren't we all learning by doing? Keep up the good work and most blemishes will buff out  :thumb:

 

[cwalker509]

Wow, that blue really pops, stunning color combination  :classic_ohmy:  

I ever liked blue and argent! 

Awesome color and good work on the paint. Aren't we all learning by doing? Keep up the good work and most blemishes will buff out  :thumb:

Tyvm!

 

[cwalker509]

Got a bit more done. Trunk lid and weatherstripping plus 1/4 extensions and hood cowl seal. Put a bucket of sand on lid to help with seal. Had to tape it since it wanted to slide off.

 

[vintageman]

That looks great, very nice. You should be proud of the work you have put into it.  Congratulations.

Tom

 

[cwalker509]

Working on interior. Not sure I have the auxiliary wire harness coming thru the correct hole (I put it thru the hole kinda behind the brake booster?). Got power steering gear in and quite a bit of the underdash stuff. Also got kilmat installed. Not sure how useful it will be in a 557 powered convertible but looks good regardless.

 

[cwalker509]

More progress. Pulled rearend. Removed pumpkin. Waiting on new yoke (upgraded to 1350 u-joint).

 

[RIBS]

Looking great! Can you do me a favor, if door pillars are still wide open, can you take and share a bunch of inside and outside pics of pillars, and where they meet quarters and rockers?  I am about to embark on rebuilding mine, they are rusted at the base….mostly I need from the door latch down….thanks!

 

[Copatlarge]

Got a bit more done. Trunk lid and weatherstripping plus 1/4 extensions and hood cowl seal. Put a bucket of sand on lid to help with seal. Had to tape it since it wanted to slide off.

View attachment 47777

View attachment 47778

I’m confused, sorry a newbie, why did you put the sand on it?
I need to replace my weatherstripping in trunk but not sure if there’s 1 or 2 different weatherstrips. I only have the one on the bottom and it’s all messed up. Is there a strip on top also?

 

[mrgmhale]

There aRE SOME REALLY NICE MUSTANG PROJECTS IN THE PHOTOS IN THIS THREAD. YOU EACH OUGHT TO BE VERY PROUD OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND ACCOMPLISHING. I HOPE TO SEE EVER MORE PROGRESS AND COMPLETION PHOTOS. HMMM... COME TO THINK OF IT THERE WILL NEVER REALLY BE ANY completion photos (sorry for the Caps Lock) as these awesome pony cars are never really ever complete, even when a project is over. There is always something else. Case in point, I am about to do some more minor, but time consumptive, work on our 73 Mach 1. In our case a wire I had run from a fused circuit on the fuse block was being used to power the DashCam, GPS/BackupCamera Display, and the full length console Power Panel. "Someone" (not me) with larger boots snagged the power wire with their toe tip the other day and pull the wire, pressed under the fused end of a Buss fuse, came out. It was bound to happen...

Anyway, a little while after doing that preliminary wiring hack I found a source for Fuse Tap devises, and ordered some through Amazon (of course). I have been planning to install one on the Mach 1 to clean up the power wiring hack (functional, but amateur looking). The use of the Fuse Tap with a well placed Wire Tie will help make it look better, and will prevent further wire snagging issues.

So, yeah, step by step it is always almost done. But there is more to do. In my case I had some door lock cylinders recoded to match the key cut on the 73 Mustang Convertible. The idea is to have one key cut for both 73 Mustangs. Also, the dust door for the two lock cylinders on the Mach 1 are sticking and preventing me from getting a key inserted. So, new cylinders will hopefully remedy that matter, and help me reduce the number of key sets we have... I had the new keys cut where of the two edges er key one edge fits the vert (and soon the Mach 1), and the other edge fits the 69 Shelby. So, one key will fit all three cars when I am done. The new lock cylinder key also used the ignition key for the trunk cylinder. Very clever. I do not plan to change cylinders from the original ones on the Shelby, but I will "double cut" a trunk lock key so one key will also work on the vert and Shelby trunk.

But wait! There's more!!!

While having the inner door panels off the change out the lock cylinders I am also going to replace the door glass as the original glass has some scratches in both pieces that are too deep to polish out. I got the door glass from ECS Automotive Concepts (https://ecsauto.com/). I provided photos of the original door glass logos and date codes, and they etched in the same logos and date codes on the replacement glass. very cool of them to do.

I did not get tinted glass from them, for some reason (did not think of it at the time), but I could and should have. The original Mach 1 had no A/C, hence no tinted glass from the factory. We added Classic Air air conditioning, so tinted glass would have been ordered. My bad. The rear window glass is also untinted, but we added a louver slat kit for the back window, so nobody will ever be able to tell if it is tinted or not. So, my next move after replacing the glass is to do a 5% - 10% tine film treatment on the two door glass interior surfaces. I will leave the rear window untinted as the louver slats are doing so much already. Once that is done the Mach 1 is done - I think. I am sure something else will come up. More fun coming...

Oh, I plan to do a YouTube video on the Fuse Tap installation, and perhaps the door lock cylinder replacement and glass replacement also. It depends on whether Lynda is available to help me with the video recording or not. It is so difficult to do a video with one hand while working on the cars with the one other hand. I have done it a few times, but the videos look better suited to be home made comedies than home made How To videos. They are fun to do in any case.

For anyone interested in my YouTube channel it is under "Gilbert Hale" - the one with my profile photo. We have quite a few videos out there with what I think are decent descriptions of what the subject(s) is on each video. I find doing videos while working on the pony cars to be a fun diversion that is also helpful to others.

 

[cwalker509]

I’m confused, sorry a newbie, why did you put the sand on it? "Additional weight to help compress the seal. These seals are known to be VERY stiff and can take a bit of time to settle in so you can easily close the lid"
I need to replace my weatherstripping in trunk but not sure if there’s 1 or 2 different weatherstrips. I only have the one on the bottom and it’s all messed up. Is there a strip on top also? "Only the one weatherstrip on the main body side. Nothing on trunk lid"

 

[cwalker509]

Update. I sent my center section to get reset and just got it back. Got SS lines bent for the rear disks. I think the rear is ready to go back in. I also started fitting the oil coolers. I did not have to drill any holes in the radiator support. It is a tight fit. Currently disassembled and painted some of the parts. May put back together tonight

 

[detritusmaximus]

Chris-

Better get a move on if you want to be at the Ford show at the end of July....

 

[cwalker509]

Should get my engine back in maybe 2 mos. Things sat dormant with little being done but now I am motivated. I did get my C6 rebuilt as a roller and got brakes bled (4 wheel disc), some upholstery started, etc...and yeah, I realize I forgot the buttons on the back seat (DOH!). Will correct that. Also got one rear quarter window installed (basics, not adjusted)

 

[cwalker509]

Some more pics of the brakes. Front Wilwood and custom lines to adapt the 4 wheel disk proportioning valve to the stock lines (shown installed in prior post). I also got a good portion of the fuel lines sorted.Edited since I realized I have not been very good at documenting progress....

 

[cwalker509]

Been working on the upholstery some more. I looked on here and also online for tricks about how to secure new seat buns to the front seat back. I had a heck of a time with the first one (last pic) and then it dawned on me to use this small hook I had from harbor fright to pull the frame spring towards the rod in the foam. Hopefully the pics show what I am talking about. Using the curved hook shown between the two hog ring pliers (next to last pic), you poke that thru near where you feel the frame spring and foam wire are (push on both sides forcing the rod and spring closer to each other to figure out relative location first). Lay the seat back on a good surface, pull up on the hooked rod tool, finagle the hog ring pliers in and while pushing the hog ring down and pulling the hooked rod up, close the hog ring pliers. The springs sometimes do not quite line up so you may need to pull the spring a little one way or the other. Also think about where the spring is relative to where the foam rod is. You will want to bias the hog ring to have a better chance of hooking the spring. This made it very much easier for me (easier being relative to the MULTIPLE missed attempts on seat one....it was terrible).