73 351C water pump

[Andy 351C]

Some help here guys please. I’m replacing my water pump and now that I have it off, is it necessary to replace the timing chain cover plate? I’m not a mechanic, I have been learning on the fly since I bought the Mustang. Please see attached picture and let me know your thoughts. Thank you!

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Lots of pitting at the top area Andy. You definitely don't want leaks/seepage on the front plate. Time to replace it.

 

[Andy 351C]

Lots of pitting at the top area Andy. You definitely don't want leaks/seepage on the front plate. Time to replace it.

Thank you and I thought that might be the response. Is it a hard job to replace? Getting the water pump off was not a picnic.

 

[giantpune]

Thank you and I thought that might be the response. Is it a hard job to replace? Getting the water pump off was not a picnic.

It depends on who put it on. In addition to what you've already removed, you need to take off the timing pointer, another bolt, the front pulley, and the harmonic balancer. It will come down to what sort and how much of adhesive the previous guy used to get it unstuck from the block.
Most likely it wont be that bad.

Reinstalling may be a bit of a trick. The crank goes through the timing cover. You want to put the front stuff back on and use that to get the cover centered around the crank. That way it seals up better and you dont get a leak. And then you get to re-seal the oil pan since that seals up against the bottom of the timing cover.

Be careful. The 3 most expensive words in this hobby are "while you're there". As in, I'm replacing the water pump, but while you're there, go ahead and do the timing cover. And that turns into, "i'm replacing the timing cover, while i'm there, i should probably replace the worn out timing chain. What starts out as a $50 water pump turns into a stroker project with a super charger.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Thank you and I thought that might be the response. Is it a hard job to replace? Getting the water pump off was not a picnic.

Pulling the front cover is a bit involved Andy. You will need to buy or borrow from Auto Zone, etc. a harmonic balancer/damper puller, although sometimes they can just slide off the crank snout (which is not a good thing- should be a tight interference fit). Oil pan will need to be dropped about 1/4" or so because it retains the bottom seal of the front plate your replacing. BUT, I would drop the oil pan entirely and replace the the oil pan gasket while your in there. I know people who do not drop the oil pan when changing the front plate but not recommend. Totally doable job for a beginner, just take your time and don't rush the job! Perhaps a forum member can recommend a good instructional video for you also.

 

[Andy 351C]

It depends on who put it on. In addition to what you've already removed, you need to take off the timing pointer, another bolt, the front pulley, and the harmonic balancer. It will come down to what sort and how much of adhesive the previous guy used to get it unstuck from the block.
Most likely it wont be that bad.

Reinstalling may be a bit of a trick. The crank goes through the timing cover. You want to put the front stuff back on and use that to get the cover centered around the crank. That way it seals up better and you dont get a leak. And then you get to re-seal the oil pan since that seals up against the bottom of the timing cover.

Be careful. The 3 most expensive words in this hobby are "while you're there". As in, I'm replacing the water pump, but while you're there, go ahead and do the timing cover. And that turns into, "i'm replacing the timing cover, while i'm there, i should probably replace the worn out timing chain. What starts out as a $50 water pump turns into a stroker project with a super charger.

Love that “while you’re there” phrase, It’s been my MO since I purchased the Mustang and I’m getting a bit tired of it. I’ve been spending more time replacing things and less time driving it.

 

[Andy 351C]

Pulling the front cover is a bit involved Andy. You will need to buy or borrow from Auto Zone, etc. a harmonic balancer/damper puller, although sometimes they can just slide off the crank snout (which is not a good thing- should be a tight interference fit). Oil pan will need to be dropped about 1/4" or so because it retains the bottom seal of the front plate your replacing. BUT, I would drop the oil pan entirely and replace the the oil pan gasket while your in there. I know people who do not drop the oil pan when changing the front plate but not recommend. Totally doable job for a beginner, just take your time and don't rush the job! Perhaps a forum member can recommend a good instructional video for you also.

Thank you, I watched some videos and this is something I’m sure I can handle if I take my time. Was hoping that I didn’t have to drop the oil pan, but it’s the right thing to do. Again thanks for your advice.

 

[70cobrascj]

It depends on who put it on. In addition to what you've already removed, you need to take off the timing pointer, another bolt, the front pulley, and the harmonic balancer. It will come down to what sort and how much of adhesive the previous guy used to get it unstuck from the block.
Most likely it wont be that bad.

Reinstalling may be a bit of a trick. The crank goes through the timing cover. You want to put the front stuff back on and use that to get the cover centered around the crank. That way it seals up better and you dont get a leak. And then you get to re-seal the oil pan since that seals up against the bottom of the timing cover.

Be careful. The 3 most expensive words in this hobby are "while you're there". As in, I'm replacing the water pump, but while you're there, go ahead and do the timing cover. And that turns into, "i'm replacing the timing cover, while i'm there, i should probably replace the worn out timing chain. What starts out as a $50 water pump turns into a stroker project with a super charger.

that’s just about what happens with me 99.9 percent of the time.

 

[Mac]

Some time ago, I had taken the time to do a "how to" when I replaced my water pump on my '71 Mach and posted it here on this web site. Attached is a link for this info, it may be useful to you.

Mac

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-removal-of-351-clev-water-pump

 

[Mark Jones]

Dont do it!
Some people may hate me for saying this, but use a good gasket sealer on the engine side of the water pump gasket and call it a day. The "while your there" rule WILL apply in your case. If you replace the timing cover, you should/will have to drop or loosen the oil pan. When you do you will most likely crack or tear the oil pan gasket. Now you have to drop the pan to change the gasket. Also, when you replace the timing chain cover, you will need a new crank seal unless the new cover is supplied with it. Depending on the miles you have on the engine, the timing chain replacement is a given. Every older engine loves a new timing chain. AND, since your engine needs a timing chain (because if it's age) and you have the oil pan off, maybe you need a new oil pump too....... After all, it's only a couple of bolts, eezy peezy!
Please understand that I am not an advocate for using gasket sealer. I believe gaskets are designed to perform a job and gasket sealer alters the original design of a gasket and it's function. And dont get me started with "using gasket sealer instead of a gasket".
To close, I think in this case a thin bead of permatex on the engine side of the water pump gasket will suit your needs and you wont end up tearing the front of your motor off (at least not this time).

 

[Bobby]

It depends on who put it on. In addition to what you've already removed, you need to take off the timing pointer, another bolt, the front pulley, and the harmonic balancer. It will come down to what sort and how much of adhesive the previous guy used to get it unstuck from the block.
Most likely it wont be that bad.

Reinstalling may be a bit of a trick. The crank goes through the timing cover. You want to put the front stuff back on and use that to get the cover centered around the crank. That way it seals up better and you dont get a leak. And then you get to re-seal the oil pan since that seals up against the bottom of the timing cover.

Be careful. The 3 most expensive words in this hobby are "while you're there". As in, I'm replacing the water pump, but while you're there, go ahead and do the timing cover. And that turns into, "i'm replacing the timing cover, while i'm there, i should probably replace the worn out timing chain. What starts out as a $50 water pump turns into a stroker project with a super charger.

While you have the pan pulled for a new gasket….while yore there….consider a new oil pump and rear main seal too.

 

[Hemikiller]

Someone has been in there already, as there's sealer on the timing cover to block gasket. I'd check the slack in the chain first. If it's still tight, leave it alone and put your new water pump on.

Video explaining the process.



You might want to take a look at that thermostat housing though, it looks pretty crusty.

 

[Andy 351C]

Someone has been in there already, as there's sealer on the timing cover to block gasket. I'd check the slack in the chain first. If it's still tight, leave it alone and put your new water pump on.

Video explaining the process.



You might want to take a look at that thermostat housing though, it looks pretty crusty.

Great video and advice, thank you! I picked up a new water pump and bolts, thermostat, housing and new hoses from Summit Racing. Hopefully I can get it all put back together on Monday.

 

[LOUHABY]

I put an Edelbrock item years ago,,,,,,great performance, and no problems!!!